themanchild Posted March 19, 2009 Report Posted March 19, 2009 I have a 1978 Dodge Diplomat torsion bar front end under the truck. The camber is terrible! Actually beyond terrible, its hella scary. Just wondering if anybody has any experience with these torsion bar suspensions and could help out with the camber adjustments. Just not sure how to do it. Quote
48Dodger Posted March 19, 2009 Report Posted March 19, 2009 Where is your chamber at? Neg or positive? Where is your caster set? Where is the toe set? Everytime you adjust the T-bars you need to recheck aligment. Left adjuster raises/lowers Right side, and Right adjuster raises/lowers Left side. These are under the crossmember located in the "slotted" area. Top of the upper control arm are two nuts that allow you to adjust the UCA arm. Then there are the tie rods. If your truck has been driving on its current set-up for awhile read the tire wear first. I would reccomend reading an "alignment 101" type site/book to get familar with the terminalogy. Where you have your settings at, will determin the "kind" of performance you have (ie. fast cornering, straight liner, cross between both). In some cases, "slamming" and "raking" sacrfices a lot of the daily driving experience. http://rqriley.com/suspensn.htm http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0604_rear_suspension_guide/index.html http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php/topic,396.0.html 48D Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 25, 2009 Report Posted March 25, 2009 this is something that needed be addressed at the time the donor suspension was welded into place..not sure what can relly be done now... Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 25, 2009 Report Posted March 25, 2009 First thing that needs to be done is to get the ride height set. That means tires on the front that are the same size and inflation pressure, tires on the rear the same size and inflation pressure with weight on the suspension the same as it would be when driving. Fender lip to ground is a good measuring point. Both sides equal. A small torpedo level placed vertically on the wheel should give you an indication of how much and which direction the upper A arm needs to go. 2 bolts on the upper A arm pivot shaft loosened only enough to pry arms in or out. If you run out of adjustment before the level centers you get to start all over. Custom A arms could be made if you need additional adjustment but would probably mess up the geometry. Quote
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