Hounddog Posted February 23, 2009 Report Posted February 23, 2009 Ive been searching past threads and I notice several mentions on the ammeter but I know when switching to negative ground you need to switch the wires on the ammeter to work. What all wires do you have to switch over??? I just bought a 12V coil and i plan on getting an alternator soon. But wiring my headlights to the switch and they stay on with the fuse out do I need to switch the wires on the headlight switch also? and the Coil? Just wondering what all wires i have to switch to make sure the 12v negative ground works properly. Thanks ahead of time! Quote
Brendan D25 Posted February 23, 2009 Report Posted February 23, 2009 You will have to switch the wires on the amp gauge and the coil. There is some info on the main site, go to the home page and on the left you will find it. There has been much discussion on 12 _ conversions previously so it shouldn't be hard to find. Good Luck on your project. Brendan. Quote
Hounddog Posted February 23, 2009 Author Report Posted February 23, 2009 Yea I read the article seems whoever wrote it pretty much says if you change to 12v your out of your mind and says you need to replace the ammeter while several people in here says it would be fine just reverse it. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 23, 2009 Report Posted February 23, 2009 Yea I read the article seems whoever wrote it pretty much says if you change to 12v your out of your mind and says you need to replace the ammeter while several people in here says it would be fine just reverse it. I just re-read the article and the author (none other than GTK our webmaster) states some modification may be required on the amp meter. The modification is reversing the polarity (reversing the wires from one side to the other). When you install your new coil (is it internally or externally resisted) you need to also reverse the polarity on it. If your headlights stay on when the fuse is removed you have a problem. There should be no need to do any wiring changes on the light switch. Quote
Hounddog Posted February 23, 2009 Author Report Posted February 23, 2009 I just re-read the article and the author (none other than GTK our webmaster) states some modification may be required on the amp meter. The modification is reversing the polarity (reversing the wires from one side to the other). When you install your new coil (is it internally or externally resisted) you need to also reverse the polarity on it. If your headlights stay on when the fuse is removed you have a problem. There should be no need to do any wiring changes on the light switch. Thank you Don Im pretty sure the PO Just threw a battery in there and didnt do anything. Its a universal 12 volt coil so since its negative ground I just run the wires to the + and - posts on the coil..Sorry for the questions ran through alot of old threads just didnt see it. The guy I bought it from said it was already converted but I can see now it wasnt...The old wires was shot and nothing was switched.. This is the first car I have ever converted so I'm trying to do everything right I have already replaced all the bulbs. the horns and now i have the coil. I plan on doing the altenator next and I saw the thread where you made the bracket for the GM 1 wire..Ill be using that thread to do my own I appreciate your help. Quote
blueskies Posted February 23, 2009 Report Posted February 23, 2009 I've converted my '50 to 12v negative ground too. I'm running the stock amp gauge, with the wires reversed on the back f the gauge. The guage will work either way, but if you don't reverse the wires when you reverse the polarity of the system, the gauge will read backwards... I used a three wire MoPar alternator, and adapted the factory bracket like Don did. Here's some light reading on why a three wire alternator is better than a one wire... It is not difficult to wire the other two wires, and there is a benefit to the effort. Pete Quote
Hounddog Posted February 23, 2009 Author Report Posted February 23, 2009 Ok im pretty confused now Ive been reading on this site and other sites about the coil....I bought an accel 8140 12V coil to put in but i dont know if i still need the ballast resistor im pretty sure I do i have one on the car that isnt hooked up to anything how can i check to see if its still good and if it is then how is it wired to the coil. I bought new condensor, points, rotor and spark plug and wires the site says the plugs need to be gapped at .028 but they come gapped at .040 should I reduce the gap??? any help will be appreciated! Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 23, 2009 Report Posted February 23, 2009 Return the coil for one that is marked as pictured so you know what you have. Quote
steveplym Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 Don, Is that ballast resistor commonly found at auto parts stores and is there a certain size needed or is it universal? How is it wired into the ignition system? Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 why would you get rid of the stock horns, they are way loud on 12V! Quote
Hounddog Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 well Im not sure if the horns on it are stock they are the snail shaped ones and the horn relay isnt seeming to work either. The horns do blow when I place a wire directly from the battery to it and they sure are loud Quote
greg g Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 ballast resisters are common, and cheap so get a couple for the glove box because they can fail from vibration. Quote
Hounddog Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 While calling around I found about every parts store has them and they run around 16 dollars.. not bad compared to what you can spend on a coil and the rest it could help not to burn out. Quote
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