spin on oil filter

[Powerhouse]

Hi all,

I just installed the $15 spin on bracket...

I had to make another bracket to move it up one inch and out on inch to clear the starter...I could have used the old bracket and some bolts if I wanted use a smaller filter.

I used NAPA filter 21515.

The adapter is a Trans Dapt 1028 Remote Oil Filter Bracket...got it on the internet from Jegs...others have it just as cheap.

Also need brass fittings as seen and 2 brake lines. I used the existing 90 degree fittings that were in my block for the break lines.

[RobertKB]

Nice job. Let us know how things work out after you put on some miles. Certainly an option compared to the oil canister and removable filter.

[teardrop puller]

nice job.

kai

[p18plywood]

I also bought that bracket on ebay, but haven't installed it yet. The full flow mods I have seen involve drilling and taping into the return oil passage in the boss where the oil pump mounts. Is that the only way to filter 100% of the oil? Please keep us updated on how well this works.

Gerry

[TodFitch]

Your filter is rated at 7-9 GPM and 19 microns according to the WIX site. Not sure that would work on my 1933 as I don't have anything to restrict flow when the pressure drops too low like the late 1933 and up engines have. I'd probably have zero pressure at idle.

Clean up can be a mess with the replaceable cartridge type filters. And the disposable canisters are a specialty item now that costs $45 from places like Bernbaum and Roberts. So I can see where you might not want to keep the original.

But I don't see how a full flow filter will be that much better than the by pass type on a collector car. And the short block has no factory provision for it, so you will have to be creative.

On the other hand, if you can use a spin-on bypass filter on that adaptor. That would be a great filter for you engine. Any one know if this filter rated down to 2 microns would work on that adaptor:

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eabp.aspx

[Don Coatney]

But I don't see how a full flow filter will be that much better than the by pass type on a collector car. And the short block has no factory provision for it,

Tod;

I think your logic is correct. I have a long block with full flow provisions. But if I did not I would be very comfortable with a by-pass filter.

[Powerhouse]

well, the main reason I changed over to a new spin on type filter is cost ($3 filter, adapter was $20), the second is it's clean, third- easy, and fourth - availabilty. I don't know if it will do a better job, hopefully not a worse job. The spin on has a bypass valve in it...is that just overkill?

[Niel Hoback]

The valve inside the filter only bypasses the filter material if the whole thing is plugged up. You won't leave it on there that long, will you? It would take years.

[TodFitch]

well, the main reason I changed over to a new spin on type filter is cost ($3 filter, adapter was $20), the second is it's clean, third- easy, and fourth - availabilty. I don't know if it will do a better job, hopefully not a worse job. The spin on has a bypass valve in it...is that just overkill?

A filter designed for by-pass use should simple clog up and stop passing oil. That makes it a fail-safe design.

For a full-flow setup that would starve the engine of lubricant. So a by-pass valve is required. But how good a throwaway by-pass valve can they make for $3? They can leak, meaning you have no filtering. Or they can stick closed meaning that your engine can be starved of lubrication. The failure they are designed for is when the media becomes clogged, then the valve opens to let oil to the bearings. But that oil is going to have a bunch of the crud that was clogging the filter. You don't want to have that happen, so you must be cautious. And that means replacing the filter at every oil change.

The bypass system simply stops passing oil from the pressure gallery to the oil pan if the filter becomes clogged. Not a real big deal. So you can run the filter until it becomes clogged. And that can be many oil changes.

And since you don't want a huge flow of oil through the bypass, you can have a finer filter media. End result, with the proper selection of filter, you can get finer particles out of the oil than a full flow filter ever could.

So, I think installing a filter designed for full flow in a bypass application gives you the worst of both worlds. That was the reason I was wondering if the Amsoil (or equivalent) spin-on bypass filter could be used on the adaptor shown. That gives you the best of the bypass design but with the ease of change of the modern style filters.

[Powerhouse]

AHAAAAAA......

I got ya now...that was very informative. Thanks.

I would change the filter with every oil change...that's how I was taught, so that's how I've always done it.