just ran into new problem..

[Guest anthony83]

as i was taking apart the front of my b3b today i discovered that the front of the frame where the bumper mounts on was cut off and the bumper is actually welded onto the frame. ummm..... anyone have an suggestions as to what i can do about this. thanks. gabe.

ps.- i found the 52' front i needed and locally also. woohoo.

pss.- what can i do about rusted bolts and nuts that don't want to come off?

[grey beard]

If 'yer bumper's really welded to the froht frame horns, your only options are to let it be as it is, or cut things off with a sawzall behind the weldment and look for a doner.

We all suffer from fasteners that are frozen by time and mioisture. The only cures are soaking with your favorite brand of panther - which takes time and does not always work at all - and/or the blue-nose wrench. When I pulled my B1B nose, there were many frozen fasteners that I could not remove without ruining the adjoining sheet metal. I just used a 4-inch grinder - use the edge of the disc - and ground the heads off carefully. Best to do this on the side that doesn't need body work/paint. JMHO:)

[greg g]

Well the best Panther P!$$ you can get that is pretty much universally available is PB Blaster, there is one called KROIL that is better than most penetrants by about 5 fold. Usually sold to gunsmiths. If you can't find either go to you local MOPAR dealership parts department and buy a can of MOPAR brand penetrating oil. This stuff is about 3 times better than PB Blaster. It has some graphite in it and really loosens stuff up well. If these fail and the flame wrench is you last resort, go slowly and carefully, especially where there might be more than one layer of sheet metal. It doesn't take much heat to begin to warp body panels, even grinders and cut of wheels will cause enough heat to cause problems with sheet metal.

[Vintrader]

Here is the website for KROIL You can oder direct, lots of great stuff there. http://www.kanolabs.com/

[Young Ed]

We've always had good luck with liquid wrench. Deep creep works too but its like 5times the price of liquid wrench.

[Steven Hood]

Kroil is my brand of choice, also. Works great!

[Guest anthony83]

i would leave it, but the bumper is in bad shape as well. it looks like the guy "modified" it by cutting it and welding a new piece into it. it looks horrible and so does the frame where he welded it in.

[Guest Dave Claussen]

I have one other option that you could consider. There is a tool available that is called a nut splitter. (Sounds painful!) JC Whitney sells one and the part # is ZX128963X. It would only work if the nut was accessible on the side and not down in a hole of some kind.

I have had good luck with the other methods mentioned as well. My personal favorite is the propane torch, you can warm it up a little or a lot and go slowly. Once I get the nut to move a little I give it a shot of penetrating oil and let it sit and soak in. I like PB Blaster at home but Aero Kroil is what we use at work. Some of the penetrating oils have chemicals in them that affect a how some paint finishes adhere and dry. Silicone is one that comes to mind. There are some good books and websites that have more details about this. Check out Eastwood for books and their Tech Library for info about painting.

[1949P17BC]

Here are two other tools to battle rust. 1. Oven Cleaner, spray it on and let it sit, will really cut the rust, 2. get nut clean and add a little heat with a torch. Good Luck make sure you wear gloves

[Guest anthony83]

thanks for all of the suggestions guys i really appreciate it. i went with liquid wrench tonight..... and had a friend help. we got the whole front end taken apart with the exception of 1 bolt we still couldn't get off. so yeah it's time to bust out with the torch.