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I am going through the rear end on the 40 plymouth. I would like to source similar brass conical thrust washer for the spider gears and the larger flat thrust washers on the differential side gears. Has anyone successfully ordered these for other applications and found sizing to be proper ? Or has anyone purchased material and spun these on the lathe ? I do know that the older Chevrolet 12 bolt guys now install steel thrust washers in place of their original brass thrust washers. I see this as a downfall as steel will obviously not wear as brass would protecting the unobtainable steel differential parts. So far I've found older Mini's use a similar brass conical thrust washer although the mini folks find that the shape and sizing of the aftermarket conical washer is not always perfect. I've also found the 1946 up willys dana axles used brass thrust washers as well in the differentials and it appears that most of the replacements are now steel although brass can be found for their dana rears. If anyone has any experience in this matter your input is greatly appreciated.

Hi Folks, first post here. I have a 51 Dodge B3 B I am putting back on the road after sitting for a good while in the Seattle "sun" (that would be rain BTW), At some point another owner decided to replace the stock rear end and install what I found to be a 56 Desoto rear end (1141544 68 and what looks like a "0" in a small square box on the rear end). Wheel hubs which are 12", were a bitch to remove as were the axles, Im using lots of anti-seize compound going back together. I bought brake and seal parts for the Fireflite and they fit it fine. As the inner seal was leaking on the rear end I ordered a new set of seals and as I was putting it all back together and cleaning the old grease out of the wheel bearings I found some really burned bearings and super gouges in the races on both sides, so new bearing time. I decided to look up new bearings on rockauto and amazon. I took the part numbers from the Timken bearing and race and plugged it in a search, said it didnt fit the 56 Desoto. A bit of looking on rockauto after measuring the race made me believe it might be a heavy duty rear end. Lord only knows and I hope someone on here also! So the removed bearings/race are numbered TIMKEN 25877 & 25821 which translates to a "Tapered Bearing & Race 25877/25821 1 Set 260" which I can find on amazon no problem. Now to me it seems like a no brainer here, get old part number from part, order new of same, install, go. But hey I confess Im geting old and you know beginning to second, OK third or fourth guess myself. Can anyone here shed any light on what the rear end is and if they have any thoughts on going with the same Timken part #s? Cheers and thanks for yalls help. Jonk

Navigating through the web of information here and elsewhere I had seen reference to the Angle of the pinion or driveshaft. My engine will be in soon ( er, or later ) and this gave me one more thing to double check with you all. The rear axle has been rebuilt and re-installed with new springs. I recall that there was / is a small bump or short dowel part of the axle housing that fit into a hole in the leaf spring plates on each side. I felt at the time that this was the guide to setting the pinion against the driveshaft correctly. This is all stock, engine driveshaft and axle. Will I be all set with this " Angle " ?? Thanks ALL ! Clay

Well the time is now, this 47 Plymouth business coupe SD has stalled for a year, but only for good reason. the original plan was a mild build with a 318 Magnum. But i was able to get my hands on an entire 08 Charger R/T, that's getting turned into a drag runner. Yup that means the 5.7 Hemi, trans, interior, steering column, gauges, seats, and entire electrical system is being installed in the the Plymouth. AND ONLY ABOUT A MONTH TO FINISH!!! Engine: 5.7 Hemi Trans: 5 speed Tiptronic Steering: 89 Chevy caviler Rear end: 01 ford explorer (DSK Brake typ) http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170326_192443944_zps2oqtkxxj.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170325_112957080_zps742lbbze.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=3 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20160709_241347219 1_zpsunomkp06.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=4 Ill try to keep this feed updated as best i can!

I placed a add for a rear end wanted. Long story short called from phone #276 206 2677goes by the name GRAHAM claims he has one. He will send pictures .from a craigslist add or another web site.. He will only accept moneygram .When he calls you he l texts you a message first Tells you to call 276 206 2677 when you call that number he will not answer a recorded message says cant take call than he will call you back on a private number so beware any questions feel free to call thanks and be careful with all web sites General Phone 727 534 8689 Email rayan@gte.net Location florida There are no public questions for this advert.

I have a 1948 (registered as '49) D-24 4 dr sedan that needs two rear 10" brake drums. Mine have to be cut off as they WONT come off! Anyone have anything? Thanks!

I've got an all-original 1/2 ton 4:10 rear end with new brakes and no major leaks, but noticed some clunking when going between forward and reverse. Sometimes when starting from a stop in first, there's a "ping" from the rear as the truck starts moving. When I had the filler plug off last, I looked in there with a flash light, while moving the companion flange back and forth (driveshaft removed). I could see the ring and pinion clearly. There was quite some free play back and forth with the flange, like a few degrees of rotation, but the ring and pinion were engaged good with no visible excessive backlash between the teeth. The teeth wear pattern looked excellent. The axle nuts at the wheels are tight, and the keyways and pins are tight...what else could be loose? I'd be hard pressed to believe its the axle splines. Do the diferential side and pinion gears ever wear out? I've never spun a wheel while I've had this truck, but the fluid has gotten low here and there with the former leaky pinion seal. Looking at the shop manual, taking the differential case apart looks like a b*tch...it says to heat it with a torch and use a special tool to unscrew the case cap. Ugh...