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Around a month ago I was doing my regular search of Craigslist for old Mopar stuff. I stumbled onto a flathead 6 core "dodge" engine, for way to much money. But it was only a couple hours from me, and I still had a few minutes of my lunch break to kill. As I scrolled through the pictures, I realized it also included some pretty expensive new parts, and was actually quite a good deal. An email and some phone calls, and the owner kindly agreed to hold it for me till I got time to get it. I picked it up yesterday. It poured rain on the way home, so I didn't get a chance to look it over very well. It is a grimy Yellow, with red underneath, industrial 251. I am not sure what it is out of, brass tag has the Chrysler pentastar, so must be '60s. It does not have the pad for full flow oil filtration. At a glance, the exhaust valves are standard, not sodium filled. Rear sump oil pan. Turns smoothly 270* then stops hard, has at least 1 stuck (open) valve, but need to pull the tin off to see what's up. A rebuild is planned, so likely no big deal. Head is off, and has been milled an unknown amount. Most likely cut to up compression. Also included was a new Asche supplied cam regrind, marked 380, split exhaust manifolds, and an unused AOK triple carb setup, linkage and carbs all complete, but linkage is set up for a truck. Anyone know if I can just flip this over and make it work for my passenger car linkage? I belive the cam is their Isky 3/4 race clone, which is their recommendation for trucks and cruisers that want more power, but don't actually want to deal with the hassle of a big cam. I am not sure why I thought this was a good idea, but here I am. Anyone have a link to a good write-up on how to fit the 25" engine in place of the 23" in '48 Plymouth? Hey Canadians: What years did y'all get the 25" 218, and what did the compression get up to? If they kept up with US improvements, a early to mid '50s head should be around 77-84 cc, which would yield almost 9-1 on this 251. On industrial engines, how did the crank case get vented? PCV? How does fresh air come in? The oil fill tube had a sealed cap. Will a 23" oil fill tube swap on? If i want to run sodium valves, are the larger diameter valve guides available? Or can the old ones be drilled and reamed? Any reasonable way to convert this block to full flow oil filtration? My 217 runs well, and I have more pressing things to fix, so I am not going to be in a hurry to swap this in. ETA: Head number is 1327236 (cast number matches stamping) Anyone able to give me any info on it? Compression ratio? Year? It is internal bypass type, has large temperature sender threads, and has head mount linkage boss threaded, but plugged with a bolt.

Howdy, Newbie here! I have a 251cid Dodge engine (T120-77962) in my 1.5 ton truck that has a blown out piston and I did not want to put money into rebuilding it since it's a truck used to just drive around the farm for fun. My question is, will a 230cid Dodge engine (D42-211153) from either 1951 or 1952 be a viable replacement to bolt up to my existing set up? I found an engine nearby in excellent running condition and thought of just swapping mine out for this one. I think that I would have to move the motor mounts, but I don't know if the water pump, thermostat housing, generator or anything else would simply swap out from the 251 to the 230. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards, Roman

Hi, I have a 1933 Dodge six roadster with a lightweight T.J. Richards body with the intention to drive and finish the 2019 Peking to Paris endurance rally. The actual engine is worn and underpowered for this job, so I'm looking for a later, more powerful and reliable flathead 6. As with this T.J.R. body, there is place enough to put in the 25" long block without big modifications. Is there a big difference in power and in technical setup between a 230 and 251, apart from the cu inches? Can somebody tell me where I can find a good post war long block? Here in Europe I can only find T214 engines and very few results on Ebay Thanks in advance, Kind regards, Patrick.

Does anyone still make the dual intake for the 25 inch 251 cubic inch chrysler engines?

Hello, first off let me say a pre thank you to anyone who takes an interest or provides me with any kind of insight. I have for years been cruising automotive forums whenever my vehicles have started acting up. i have found a wealth of information and helpfulness to pretty much diagnose, if not fix almost every problem. So far, so good...sort of. Anyway i have never signed up for any forum before and was content to just scout as a guest. Well. Last November I fulfilled a boyhood fantasy and bought a vintage pick up. I have since, been learning( almost daily it seems) about the joys of owning such a piece of history. I thought it was time to sign up, while looking through this forum the first picture i happen across was a 49 Fargo 1/2 ton...just like mine. i have since speculated mine to be a 50/51 as looking at pictures mine has the later grill, although the registration is 49. though the engine does have a tag that say " remanufactured by the chrysler method" and is dated 1956. Ok, so i have had a pretty lovely intoduction to vintage vehicles thus far. 3 weeks after purchase my head gasket went( the first time). Sad fargo sat for a month while i discovered how much fun it was to find parts for a 25 inch canadian made chrysler 251 flathead 6. Thank you vintagepowerwagons.com. After pulling the head off and discovering the cooling systems was for lack of a better word, Hooped. i set about gathering a new water pump, hoses, gasket set, APR head studs, rotor, cap, plugs, coil, leads,oil, etc. I had the rad flushed, had the head planed and magnafluxed, cleaned the water distribution tube, wire wheeled the top of the block and pistons. blew out all the water out of the intake. got all the crud out ( at least i thought). cleaned up the carb as best i could( so not a carb guy), rebuilt the distributor( ok my dad did) So, old motor, no idea how long it had been like that. Head gasket replacement, to be expected right. ya. ive heard these flatties will blow a gasket from time to time. no worries, i installed studs so a head replacement is no biggie... ok im getting to the point. so my head gasket has gone twice now, and im suspecting its going again. just before the second time, it started making this weird flapping noise, which kinda matches the rpms and then it just gets kinda slower. at first there is no loss of power, then it definitely does. I shut it off before anything came gushing out the tail pipe, as i don't want the rods to hydraulic. First, does anyone know what this noise is? and is there something i can do to help eliminate the possibility of blowing another gasket. Could it be the timing. As it is hard to set by gun, I've been told to "listen" for it. Second, as its like 3 head gaskets in like realistically 3 months, am i fighting a losing battle here. granted there are lots of determining factors , but I've combed through a lot of reading and have tried a lot of things to get it fixed. Don't get me wrong, it runs great when it runs.

I've completely torn down the engine on my 1950 Chrysler Windsor Sedan, as the engine was seized when I bought it. I have yet to collect any precision measurements (I don't own any machinist's tools), but I did notice a few things as I disassembled the engine, and I'd like to know if any of you have any advice. Primarily concerning me right now is the valve train. While some of the valves slid right out of their guides after I had removed their springs and retainers, there were a few that were so stubborn, they required vice grips, penetrating oil, and nearly an hour of twisting and tugging to remove. What's odd, is that aside from the damage inflicted by my vice grips, I couldn't find any apparent deformities on the stubborn valves. I'm wondering at this point if there's any good way to determine if the problem was my valves, valve guides, or both. Additionally, after finding what's available on Vintage Power Wagons, I've been considering the possibility of installing modern valve seats and valves to allow for the use of unleaded fuel. I hope to one day drive this car daily, and don't want to deal with tracking down and adding a lead substitute at every fill-up. Does anyone here have experience in running these fatheads on unleaded? Do the original valves ruin themselves if you do? This is my first engine rebuild, and any advice on the subject is greatly appreciated.