Los_Control

Just now, Plymouthy Adams said:

no....get a new yoke.....that is if you intend to get good driving characteristics and long life....sometimes you just got to bite the bullet...if you don't, it exits the back of your head.

Yes sir, kinda what am thinking. ... might try to see if can source a good used one. Truck is odd enough that it probably be cheaper to take to drive line shop and have replaced.

If the ear did break off while on highway, is connected to trans and would destroy the tail housing of the nv4500 manual trans which would not be cheap.

25 years ago, was only $100 to have a drive line modified repaired ... sure it not changed much  ?

Guys/gals ... have a dilemma I need to take care of.

Need to fix my chebby so this girl can get her parking space back 

Problem with the chebby is a u-joint, problem with u-joint is a bent yoke. Last spring I rebuilt the driveline, I found this one yoke had taken a hit and some metal scaring. Like out 4 wheeling and hit a rock.

I dressed it up with a dremel and installed new u-joint ... ujoint was tight and figured would loosen up. It did not so doing it again.

The left side is what right should look like, right side is bent slightly in and again the u-joint is to tight to freely move.

I can easily remove the joint and caress it with a bfh .... but should I?

Any advise to bend it back? I think it will be ok, yet I know some metal you should not bend .... my 16 gauge will break when I bend it. But the yoke is thick enough it will not matter?

Yeah and we walked uphill to school both ways  ?

4 minutes ago, racertb64 said:

If it's as good as it looks in pics or better in person, it should be a nice truck regardless.  But it would be nice if everything matched up though.  My main question was the tag with the serial number indicating a 51 B3B, but also showing B2B on the tag.  

I was going to point this out, seems like I missed it.

I specifically wanted a 1949 B1B with a flat 6/3 on the floor. I am a dummy that paid to much for a truck sight unseen ... I just asked they deliver it and pay for delivery.

I love my truck, but not what I expected.

Turns out my truck serial # ends with a X. This means it is a 1949, but it was sitting on the show room floor advertising all the 1950 upgrades.

This means I got the 3 on the tree, low side bed, the motor/trans is a 1950 .... Just saying in 1949 they used a X, maybe in 51 they did something different?

https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html

According to this, is a 218 from 51-53 ... sounds right.

I had a 1952 parts truck I saw it had a motor started with a P, it was a 1952 motor. I was told sometimes at end of year they would use other engines to clear out old inventory before new year.

So just because the engine started with a P, was told could not rule out it was not original. Is this true? I read it on the internets.

Again just pointing out how they did so many screwy things back then.

Good looking truck .... seems doubtful is a low mileage survivor in that condition. More likely a older restoration.

What if it had a frame swap or a motor swap, in 70 years much can happen. Does it really matter? Proper paperwork would be important to me.

Back in these years, they used the engine # for the title. If engine got swapped it no longer matched. Unless one ground off the original # on new block and stamped in old # ... A lot of people did this. I met a old timer that did the exact same thing on stolen harleys ....Just saying, what does it mean?

My Uncle sold a 1946 chevy truck, new owner found out it was actually a 1942 Navy truck. Was 46 when the Navy sold it and issued it it's 1rst title.

Some states never bothered to title vehicles back in those days.

My whole point, you got a nice looking truck, it has clean title, registered, insured ... you going to kick it out of bed cause frame or engine # not match?

My opinion could be wrong. My truck has original title, engine, frame ... while my first 49 came from a farmer, had a 1937 motor, a 1/2 front ton axle on a 3/4 ton truck & a clean title.

I assume my truck was parked because of overheating issues. First start it was obvious a cooling issue and one T-stat bolt was broke, meaning po attempted and gave up.

First issue I found was water distribution tube was clogged. I took a flat bar and rodded it out ... hokey repair but expect to pull the motor at some point and will change then.

As @keithb7suggested ... the block was filled with sand or sediment, pulled the soft plugs and washed it out. I have heard it may be casting sand leftover from when block was born. If your engine was rebuilt at some time and hot tanked, probably cleaned out. If not there is a good chance your engine would benefit from cleaning it out.

Then I filled the radiator/engine with straight vinegar. Ran it through a few heat cycles. Flushed it all out and repeated, left it sit for a few weeks and a few more heat cycles.

Think maybe did this 3 times. maybe over 2 months let it sit with vinegar. Will be more mild and less aggressive then caustic chemical ... AND CHEAP! 

As it turned out, my radiator was shot and had about 6 holes in it, leaked from very beginning, not because of vinegar.

Now with no T-stat installed, will idle for a hour or more at 160 degree, then slowly creep up to 190 and a fast idle drops it right back to 160.

Will do a vinegar flush on it one more time when I actually start driving it, take it for a good drive and warm it up.

I use the permatex Indian head shellac gasket sealer on T-stats. I do not know what is best, just what worked for me 40 years ago while others failed.

I glued my t-stat in place and also the gasket, let it setup for a few min before installing. Use fingers to support weight of t-stat while setting it down.

Seems like it slipped once on me, you could tell because housing would not sit flush. Picked it back up and mooshed everything back together, more careful 2nd try and no issues.

Probably something that would glue things better .... just what I use.

3 minutes ago, PT81PlymouthPickup said:

There's probably not one of us on here that hasn't done some stupid and risky things and most of the time got away with it. I'm amazed I survived my youth.

Yeah am embarrassed to repeat some of them ... but if someone does learn?

I had a 1965 2door impala, Needed to change front tire. It was on a bumper jack and was yanking on tire to get it off the hub ...

It came off the jack and landed on my arms while trying to loosen the front wheel.

Turns out it landed on the tire because I never broke it loose, but both arms received road rash as it fell off jack and had my arms on tire under fender.

Yeah sometime I do wonder how we ever survived youth.

20 hours ago, keithb7 said:

My latest toy showed up this morning. I have put off learning to weld for too long. I'll be 50 soon.

For some reason your vids make you look older 

But enjoy, trial and error is the facts of life ... videos give clues but actually doing it gives experience.

I am a few weeks ahead of you, bet you surpass me quick as you learn.

Dumb things like using a razor knife ... you pull it towards you, and you thinking ... hope it does not slip. It does and you probably need stitches.

But we knew what was going to happen ahead of time.

Kids, they pulling the knife, it slips ... happened so fast they no clue what happened.

Is how we learn.

I remember the weekly Monday morning safety meetings as a union carpenter ... think it was really just a chance to let the men get over their weekend hang over.

Ladders have always been the biggest issue.

Funny story ... as a finish carpenter, I remember looking out the window and a framer falling off a 6' step ladder while doing some fascia.

He actually fell off it 3 times ... uneven ground, issues ... After 3rd time, he looked like the Tasmania devil and destroyed the ladder. Was so funny to watch ... ladder spinning around and tossed to the ground. Then a big stick and beat it to submission.

Just saying sometimes we get ahead of selves ... the ladder never did anything wrong.

Work smart, work safe

You know the drill ... deserves to be saved.

Actually those panels seem to have some rare parts. From photo rear quarter looks good, has running boards, driver side mirror.  There is a lot there to be saved.

You could actually make a camp trailer out of it.

Would I do anything with it? ... no. But if close enough I would drag it home. Whats there looks good, whats missing can be replaced.

I wish kids would read this and learn ... kids never listen.

Years ago when was 22 years old, worked in a Bandag retread plant. At one point we were doing 176 tires a day. High production shop.

In order to meet this production ... imagine if you will, a 30' long chamber filled with air. At 110 psi. We had 3 chambers. Takes a long time to exhaust the air out.

We would cheat and exit the air more quickly. What a noise it made ... today I need hearing aids .

Later I was a remodel carpenter ... and a smoker ... I hated wearing mask because could not breathe to begin with .... Imagine if you will opening walls & ceilings.

cough ... cough ... cough ... all good here boss.

Later, I did over extend myself carrying roof trusses ... they needed to be dropped with a crane. Result is my back is hosed ... I am permanently disabled.

Today, I walk into shop and put on safety glasses, wear a mask when I should. I take safety precautions every chance I get .... fact is, I should have done it when 30 years old and not start when 50 .... just my ramblings as a disabled idiot.

I am sorta at the same stage. I have my old floor cut out. There is just so much access to other items, I am in no hurry to weld in my new floor.

I need to replace the bushing on the clutch/brake pedal. The new brake lines connect right there and easy to get to. I need to replace my E-brake cable. I want to paint the frame ... thinking about replacing the cab mounts since they are so easy to reach. Just thinking the floor will be the last thing I put in ... contemplating making it bolt in.

I have no idea how much floor repair you need ... just a idea to consider when doing the repairs.

I am hesitant to use undercoating on my truck. Paint worked for 70 years in the past, will work as long as I need it the 2nd time around.

I live in a dry warm climate so my experience would be different from yours. I am hesitant to use any undercoating or even por15.

I can not say anything bad about por15, I have never used it and do not plan to in future. My concern is proper preparation and trapping moisture rust under the product.

Same thing with any undercoating. You can cause more danger & harm if not done perfectly.

What I do like for weather protection against different salt and ice melt applications is bar&chain oil for your chainsaw.

Long video for other issue, but shows the results after 4 years in service.

Pretty sure I will continue to do what I do.

Funniest damn thing I can mention is now that am retired, I no longer care about what others do.

I did once care when was a supervisor and had a team to take care of.

I am always looking to repurpose scrap metal. Just saying I would salvage the metal and repair my fenders if opportunity arose.

8 minutes ago, Brent B3B said:

What part of Oregon are you?

and don’t tell her but, she is wrong..... you do need it ?

Glad you said it first  

Just saying the truck I bought I paid $1800 for it, was advertised for $2200. I offered $18 on the phone just by the photos provided on the add, then offered $200 if he delivered it on a trailer to my home. He did.

Only thing I regret, is I really wanted a 1949 with 3 on the floor, I ended up with a late 1949 with the 1950 upgrades.

You wont find many fools like me .... This is my 2nd 49, I specifically wanted this year and was willing to pay a lil extra to get it.

While others in facebook market is asking similar prices, a few cheaper deals come up and sell fairly fast.

I plan to also just drive around town with mine, just trying to do needed repairs first and paint is part of repairs. Where it is today.

Obvious it is those fog lights in the front causing the rear end issues ... take them off and send them to me 

There is a special tool/puller used to pull the drums off these old tapered axles. You can pick them up, I bought mine from ebay.

A lot of people do swap the rear ends in these old trucks. A 3:73 from a jeep or Ford explorer works well. You would need to replace the spring perches on the axle and a few other things.

Simply because people do swap rear ends, it may not be to hard to source parts or a complete rear end.

I would use the correct tool to remove the drum, access damage and a fair chance you can keep & fix what you have, find spare part or just swap a modern rear end in.

If the price is reasonable, what the pic shows it looks like a good project. Does the motor turn over by hand or is it stuck?

I have had 2 busy days, dinner is cooked and people are fed ... I need to rest and eat later.

Not big on presents for Christmas ... or just a tightwad.

I know my wife birthday is Dec 8, as a child growing up 5 brothers/sisters. Often her Birthday was passed over and combined with Christmas ... I tend to pay more attention t her on her B-day then xmas.

She told me she wanted to spend x amount of money on her self this year ... perfect, buy your own gift .... she offered to buy me some new jeans to replace the pair I caught on fire grinding welds 

A few days ago a friend called up, needed a ride to the dollar store to buy a heater. I thought he would not get a decent heater from there. Sent him over my garage heater and said Merry Xmas. I have been wanting a propane heater anyways.

Christmas Eve morning, got a call from my neighbor. I know he lost his job as a EMT about 9 months ago. Sure he has been dealing with depression, possibly ptsd as is a marine. He reached out to me and asked for some help, needed a ride home from the hospital. I think he finally hit bottom and ready to get back on with life.

I have been taking care of him and a long battle ahead. Just happy to have my friend back.

All in all I think was a fine Christmas for me. I hope you all had a great day also.

To bad you so far away, would buy your old bumper ... looks cherry compared to mine 

Los scratches chin mumbles weeeel .... I asked this question awhile back ...and there are some really smart people here that told me yes, no, maybe. 

See I wanted the 3:73 out of the suburban & put them in my 49 dodge pickup. Seems I was told the only issue might be the splines on the axles.

Seems some years used different splined axles and what you can do if yours are different, take the parts needed from one pumpkin & swap to the other so you can use your original axles.

In your case, you may be able to swap the axles also if you find this issue I dunno, My truck rear end was actually 2" wider then the suburban. I could not swap axles.

Long story short, compare the axles/splines when you remove them.

The rings will/can stick from sitting for several years without running. Good chance with a few heat cycles the rings on the low cylinder will loosen up and compression will rise to match the rest.

I have similar issue with mine, #1 cyl was 75, #5 was 90, rest were over 100. I kept adding marvel mystery oil in the cylinders let it soak and then run it.

Now the worst is 95 & rest are over 100. I have not yet started driving it. Was told driving the engine on the road in a decent rpm range will help the rings seat more then just idle in driveway.

Cough .... I think dwell is over rated.

If important they would have made it adjustable like a cheby distributor?

Just yanking your chain. With the chevrolet distributor you could open the window and adjust the dwell.

No other car manufacturer offered that .... WTF? Was dwell not important to them?

Just a pita to remove the dizzy cap and adjust the points from 12k to 16k to 20k & back to 13 to adjust the dwell.

Now that you got it set just where you want it ... next month with points wear it will be different.

I know I know ... put yer trailer queen back on the trailer.

I will pull out my match book to set the points and skip the dwell 

Pull #1 plug then remove the small pipe plug on #6 cyl. Rotate the engine by hand holding a finger over #1 Or a small piece of tissue paper works.

When that cyl is on compression stroke, it will blow off the tissue paper or you will feel the air on your finger. Stop!

Take a long wire, 10" or longer and put it into the pipe plug hole. now rotate the engine back or forth to get the #6 piston at top of stroke.

Both #1 & #6 are on top of stroke at same time, #1 will be compression stroke ... you felt the compression escape the plug hole, #6 will be on exhaust stroke.

Now you can drop in your distributor with rotor. Try to at least have the rotor pointing somewhere near 7:00 0'clock ... may be 5 or 8 does not matter It is where it is.

Just saying if the rotor is pointing at 12 0'clock, rotate it 180 and have it point at 6 0'clock.

Thats what I did, now my wiring is just like factory, except the wires are moved one position counter clockwise ... easy to remember for future reference.

Now put on distributor cap, where the rotor is pointing, that is where #1 plug wire goes. 153624 clockwise around the distributor cap.

Couple things to think about. The pipe plug could easily be blocked with carbon. I used a nail and gave it a tap with a hammer and cleared it .... not a great idea.

It worked though. When I felt compression escaping the pipe plug hole, I knew 6 was near TDC and installed my distributor with rotor pointing to #6 plug wire and installed the rest from there. I never removed the #1 plug to install the distributor. Not as exact finding top of piston stroke, but close enough to know where the rotor is pointing and where the #6 wire should be installed.

The reason why I offer this, when I knocked the carbon loose it was sitting on top of piston ... after I corrected my firing order problem, the engine fired right up ... that carbon got caught under the exhaust valve and ran badly for about 45 seconds until it got sucked out. This could have damaged the valve or valve seat.

If I had the chance to do it over, I would have left the carbon alone not removed it. Which means you would not get to use wire to determine the piston travel.

But thats ok, you can still figure it out.