Los_Control

Quote

 

New existing light is 1000% better then what I started with ... maybe someday I upgrade it, today is no need.

I have a mess that needs to be cleaned, but decent light with T18 bulbs  with the doors closed.

14 hours ago, keithb7 said:

I really like some of you guys' shops....Envious.

I suspect what you like in that photo is the architecture.  The house/garage was built in 1948. The carpenter built the roof by cutting each rafter individually ... we call it stick built.  Very possible @keithb7 bought a new house in 1948 and owned a 10 year old Plymouth P6, then a few years later bought a new Chrysler. It fits right in with our old car hobby. Not practical, but has character. Keith current garage is 10 times better then this tool shed ... As a retired remodel carpenter, I feel like I found a very nice driver quality rust free "house" needs some tlc to bring into great shape but works perfect as is after some work.

Lights are working today for a few hours, wiring is air temp, see almost zero issues with the lights .... The only issue Is, what a frigging mess I have now that I can see.

I almost want to turn them off and go back to a incandescent bulb 

28 minutes ago, Ulu said:

I am a radio guy and I’m used to building chassis on the bench. It doesn’t bother me to solder things that cause other people grief in the future.  

I like your style 

33 minutes ago, Ulu said:

But a stranded wire is better than solid wire of the same gauge. It’s just more expensive, and it can carry more current than the solid wire

Thats really good news. I have 2, 40' rolls of 18 gauge that I would never use in my truck and this project may be the only place I will use it. So game on!

While this 10' x 22' is called a garage when it was built, I call it a tool shed. When I pull down the door in the winter time, nothing but a dark cave with existing lighting.

I need to run 4 wires 15' to get on the other side of my attic shelf and connect other light. I understand the ballast will be fine up to 20'.

Where existing light is, bottom of the beam is 9', above shelf is 12' peak. You have to be on a ladder to reach the wiring. I am not going to run conduit for this job.

Simply gently attach wiring to rafters. I think I will be fine 

As a consumer I would be totally fine with it. A bad hose on some farm equipment could be just as dangerous as a bad brake line on a car. They need to produce a quality product.

But when talking DOT we are talking government regulations and a whole new set of rules.

When I first bought my project truck I asked about making the rubber lines for me. The reply was a simple we don't make them. I never asked why. I just assumed was to small of hose and they work with larger lines.

When @Dodgeb4ya mentioned DOT, was like a light bulb turning on. Maybe a Farmer in his barn would make one and I would use it ... A real business with a store front and liability, they may not be willing to take the risk.

I could see government requiring a special license & conditions to be DOT approved.

The Hydraulic hose shops are making  a living with farm and construction equipment, plenty of stationary hydraulic equipment, They don't need the headache or hassle to deal with DOT. Leave it for specialty shops.

57 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

It happens every day

11 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

No one would do any "DOT" brake hose work. Liability iissue.

That would make sense. Here in farming country, small town we have  hydraulic hose shops everywhere. I wonder if they would make a brake hose for a automobile?

I will be running a total of 2 fixtures = 4 bulbs total. I am replacing the original single incandescent 60 watt light bulb. = 1000% improvement.

I have  two extra fixtures I may hang  later if I think I need them. With this small space I do not think will need them.

All I can find online is led sold by the case of 25 bulbs. I think it may be to difficult to fed x a single tube and expect it to survive the trip. Makes sense to me.

Other idea, these bulbs should last a long time, but if one does burn out, I want to be able to run down to the store and pickup a replacement.

Maybe in another year my hardware store will start stocking them and make sense to convert then.

I have the lights hanging now, I bought the bulbs, The  12/3 pigtail is ready to connect, only thing left is the 18 gauge jumper wires.

I figure I have enough correct 18 gauge to run the power side of ballast. Will use 16 gauge automotive wire to jump the neutral side of ballast.

If you do not hear from me, I blew myself up 

I just know the wires are rated differently, House wiring is single strand and the sheathing is more durable.

While automotive wire is multi strand and different softer sheathing.

Does it really matter to run a florescent light?

All the wiring will be stapled to side of rafter in open air, easy to monitor if it gets even slightly warm I will stop using and replace.

12 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I recommend you convert them to single end LED tubes now while you have them unmounted and such

My first choice would be to convert to direct wire led, throw away my ballast. I cant find the bulbs or any that are compatible with my ballast around.

Home depot is a 4 hour drive round trip, not going there and online only ships by the case not individual bulbs ... I need 4 bulbs not 25.

After spending a week chasing led's and return the wrong ones ... Am stuck with T18 florescent until stores start stocking right bulbs.

I already know am going to get beat up for this question, probably deserve it 

I got some free 4' lights that were removed from a local Jr High school. They are old and built very solid, and working when removed ... I like them.

The wiring seems funky but with help got it figured out. They started out as T12 lights, later were updated to T8.

The sparky installed a 4 tube T8 ballast in every other 2 tube light, then a jumper wire from one light to run the next light without a ballast.

These lights were removed from the gymnasium, must have been 50-60 lights there. So buying 25 ballast instead of 50 was considerable savings.

My problem is I do not have enough 18 gauge wire. Local hardware store does not sell it ..... I have plenty of Automotive wire, enough to rewire a truck 

Seems to me the 18 gauge is kinda like low voltage wire for door bells and such. Could I substitute 16 gauge automotive wire instead?

My other choice is a 1 hour drive to town and hope they stock/sell it or order on line ... just be nice to use what I have if possible.

I know there are some pretty sharp people here with extensive electrical knowledge.

Another option is to use them as is with 4 tube ballast on 2 tubes .... told they will be brighter and burn out bulbs faster but work fine .... not sure am comfortable with that either.

Anyone try that?

My idea is purely basic fuel delivery.... lets clear that first.

I did a bad thing and I added fuel to my original tank .... it ran great for awhile. Then the floaters would plug the lines and stop fuel flow .... Let it sit for awhile and the floaters would settle and clear line again. Then it would run out of gas again as the fuel line got clogged.

This describes exactly what you are dealing with ... Could also be other issues. Start with the basics, what shape is your fuel system in?

I should add ... "just asking for a friend"

All ya all except red wheels if you have a red head girlfriend with green eyes?

I agree with the video showing and explaining the work done to the suburban.

Often we look at a project car for sale, is almost  a determent. Have to worry about the previous work that was done, how much you have to redo ... rather have one that nobody touched.

So that video is also selling you and your knowledge, your passion for old mopar and your ability to work on them.

It would make the car more desirable to someone who would be interested in a project car.

I like the coo pay,  I do not know the full story on it or where you are getting parts and how many  you have for it.

Your $600 price seems very reasonable to me if it runs and moves and has no brakes.

Problem right now is the market.

Paul my advice, worth exactly what you paid for it ... You are keeping your truck? spend your time on it. Get the motor swap done, use any parts you need to get it in the best shape you can. Time is more valuable as we get older.

No matter what you do too the "coo pay" You may never sell it. Even giving it away on this forum you may not get anyone to step up to the plate to pay transport ... I imagine would be $1k at least to ship to Texas.

You may have to turn a blind eye and offer it for free in your local area.

I guess back then we did what we needed to get by

Pulled from  a good running 34 Ford, if only they bought a Dodge.

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

No desire to go anywhere these days I have all the fun I can stand telling whippersnappers to get off my lawn.

I'm with you brother 

I got my little travel out of the way when I was young. When I was 16 I hitch hiked from Seattle area to Las Vegas with a friend. I got a job and had my own apartment, had to have a room mate 18 years old to put the lease in their name. Then somehow got hooked up with a carnival and traveled the Midwestern states.

By time I was 19 I was back in WA and tried to join up in the military .... Son, we do not allow your kind here!  Been back to Vegas a few times when needed a job.

I then ended up in Washington DC, I lived there for a few months working but hated it, went to New York and left as soon as I could. Ended up working on a Horse ranch in West Virginia.

By the time I turned 22 was working a union job in Tacoma WA and got married. I drug my wife and family across the state when I got a manager position for a new shop.

A few years later life happens and move to Albuquerque New Mexico because Bugs Bunny told me so. Then explode my back and back to WA for 2 years with inlaws.

Wife says, "Lets move to Texas"  Here we are,  house is paid for and I do not think I am going to do anymore travel. I feel like a honest been there done that ... Git off my lawn!

2 Months ago in August, wife drove to New Mexico to visit daughter ... you go ahead honey and have a good time, I will sit here with the dogs.

We have a old 1993 dodge caravan we inherited when the wife mother passed. FIL hated it always.  Been a perfect lady since I have been doing the maintenance on it.

I started driving vans as a carpenter years ago, keeps the tools dry and locked up.

If the brakes are free and drum turns your good there .

You have the correct puller, I saw above you said a 4# hammer, thats correct.

I think you are fighting rust ... can see the rust in the photo.

Strange it appears the drum has been updated to studs and  nuts. So seems that the drum has been off before.

I think @ Dodgeb4ya  has best advice, hit it harder. Is a tapered axle and suppose to be tight.

It may help but I wont advise it, apply some heat to it to break the rust. Sounds to extreme to me, may cause more damage then worth.

No doubt it would cook the seals, possible damage to other parts? I wonder what others think?

Hit it again, what you got going on is way better then driving it with the axle nut loose. You only do that if you do not have correct tool, you have it.

Seat belts certainly play a part .... sometimes I think we need a little extra help.

No way a passenger would have survived.

Most my  damage was from the seat belt. Broken pelvic. cracked ribs and broken collar bone. punctured lung & lacerated liver.

The seat belt really was put to a test here and it passed with flying colors. Good chance I would be dead if not wearing it.

T-boned from a drunk driver.

I am thinking about  seat belts for the truck. My current driving habits is all in town 25-35 mph, I probably will not.

If I do a rear gear swap and start driving highway speeds Disk brakes and seat belts would be included in the swap.

I still need a seat, If I do not go stock, will probably go Chevy Silvarado  and they have the seat belts connected to the seat. I may end up with them anyways.

Glad it worked out, hope next year things are back to normal.

49 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

Can't speak for anyone else,but I LOVE seeing photos!

Careful there ... I have old photos of girlfriends I do  not want to see.

Old cars are cool

My first thought, I went to a local parts store for a set of points for my distributor. I brought the distributor with me and they checked the numbers. and pulled the part off the shelf. Was the wrong points in the box they brought out .... they said my distributor had been messed with and could not help.

Next parts store same situation and had correct parts in the box.

I have no idea how the wrong part ended up in the box, but it did.

Might be worth just order a new one and hope it is the right one? I am guessing they only cost a few dollars, try a different supplier. Trying to return and ship one back would be a nightmare.

I am impressed easily ... I love we can pack the pilot bearing bushing with grease, and use physiques to remove the bushing .... It sends tingles up my leg.

We know you need same correct size bushing to replace.

The ID may change from wear, I do not think the OD would change .... there is no wear there.

Because these engines are so old, there is many possibilities of past repairs ....

you may have a 230 block with a 218 crank?

You may have a 230 crank from a newer block? 

Just so many possibilities for a backyard mechanic to do a repair decades ago ... you need to match up what you have, that may give you a clue on what you own.

58 minutes ago, Brent B3B said:

( beats did well in the raised bed)

I am not understanding beets this year. They are 2"-3" tall, and zero under ground. They sprouted but never grew.

I have grown beets in the past with no issue, different locations and soil conditions.

I think the beets are telling me my soil is missing something and will have to improve it.

Now is the time.

Same time the asparagus patch out back is looking good for first year.

Life moves on, I have awaken with something different then  a p-19 in my arms.

Somehow we all manage to recover .... I think you will recover real nice, beautiful car.

Welcome to the forums and anyone does not like the red wheels tell them to eat dirt 

A clearer image