maok
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Everything posted by maok
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Yep, I agree - almost idiot proof. Most likely the mismatch of the coil is what is causing the issues. And for some, the coil is a mysterious device.
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With time your condensers are going to degenerate, if they haven't already. Imo, most likely the early failures for pertronix installs are caused by the installer.
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I've never had an issue with a pertronix install, I've installed several in the last 5/6 years.
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I've done the 6volt Pertronix on my '37 MC Dodge (218), though I did have a 6volt alternator.
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I believe it's due to an extraordinary sun flare that occurred a few days ago. Similar affects in the attic as well.
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I've seen many FM bluetooth transmitters but none AM
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So spark from the coil but not from the distributor? Check the condensor for a short.
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It appears to be related to the distributor wiring or condensor. Do you get spark from any spark plug wires?
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Best you pull the starter out before you cause a fire. Post some pics of what you have so we can guide you on testing it. If you are not confident with a voltmeter, you may need some one who is
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When you say relay, do you mean the solenoid? If so, the wiring diagram shows that the solenoid receives it's power from the starter switch, which in turn is supplied by the fuel gauge. Also, the solenoid is grounded via the generator.
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If you pull the starter out, it can easily be tested on the bench, with or without the either solenoid attached. Post a pic and we can give you guidance on a ' how to bench test'
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Just to answer your question regarding the thin and heavy wire to the solenoid, I am guessing a little because I don't have a wiring diagram of your car, the heavy wire is probably the horn wire and it should be connected to the large post on the solenoid. The thin wire is the start wire, coming from the starter switch from your dashboard. Can you post a wiring diagram.
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Like here Australia, many mopars in the 1920's and 30's were bodied outside of the USA and Canada. This '38 Desoto, though its labelled as a '37, probably a '37 production chassis. Wonderful coach work.
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As far as I know, the actual number didn't represent anything specific eg., engine size, wheelbase or any feature of the vehicle, just a sequence number starting from C1 in 1935.
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Yes, that occurred with Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge models as well. It appears the Chrysler models were the first to change to the numbering system in '35 and the other three changed in '36. Though, the Dodge trucks did not change, they had a reversal of the letter system ie KC, LC, MC, etc Chrysler from its inception in '24 used the speed the vehicles could reach, ie series 60 represented 60mph, though the Imperial models were always series 80 from 1926 to 30. This model coding was used until 1930 with Series 66, 70, and 77. Note, they had a series 70 in 1926 as well...lol Then in 1931 CA.., PA.., DA.., SA.. for each of the makes.
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The numbering after the prefix letter started in 1935 (or was it '34?) for Chrysler, each model in each year had a specific number. C1 is a standard '35 Airflow, C2 is an Imperial '35 Airflow, C3 is a custom Imperial Airflow in '35, etc Odd one in the Airflows was the CW, which went from '34 to '37. This system applied to Plymouth, Dodge and DeSoto models all the way to late '40s (?)
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P = Plymouth D = Dodge S = DeSoto C = Chrysler
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Hey Andy, it's based on a MC truck chassis and running gear. Mine has the usual 16" wheels, but the flyer says that there was the option for 20" wheels, it was marketed to farmers.
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My '37 MC Dodge touring is relatively rare, apparently 12 were commissioned by Austral Motors, the bodies were built by Hope builders here in Brisbane, Aust. Previous owner believes there are two other survivors.
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Yes, the 12v battery will make the starter spin faster, general rule with electric motors, higher the voltage, faster the spin, more mechanical resistance, higher the current(amp) draw from the battery. And yes, the 12v battery will blow things like light bulbs, etc if designed for 6 volts. Do what Sam has suggested and make sure not to have those devices switched on.
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When making the final contact, do that on the 12v battery +ve or -ve terminal, not on the starter. The contact will cause an arc which may damage your threads on your starter terminal.
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If you follow this, you won't have any issues timing your engine.
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The sender is not 6 volts, its just a variable resistor. Just buy a 6volt to 12volt converter then use this to feed 12volts to your gauge. These are readily available on ebay, very cheap too. However, the sender resistance range may or most likely, not match your gauge requirement. Do you have the specs of the gauge ie its resistance range?
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FYI, current draw is mainly based on the mechanical resistance from the engine to the start motor, ie. engine capacity, compression, accessories attached, etc. Ohms law doesn't work with an electric motor in the circuit, if you replace the 6volt battery with a 12volt battery you will find that the current draw is slightly larger than the 6 volt battery, going against ohm's law.
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That looped wire looks a little dodgy to me but difficult to tell from the pic, it's critical that it's well insulated and does not ground. Before removing distributor, turn engine over until rotor is pointing to #1 spark plug wire, engine should be approximately at TDC, now remove as mentioned above. It's a lot easier working on it on the bench.
