n1gzd_plymouth

Here is a link to all of the pictures that I have taken of my Plymouth starting with the reference shots when I first got it, some maintenance pics from when I was getting the car running and ending with some nice shots of of the car out and about. http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Plymouth/index.html Lots of work left to do but this is it so far. Rebecca

I decided to create my own web site. I use yahoo small business hosting. $11.95/mo for unlimited disk space. I currently have about 60,000 images there. Yahoo is pretty good. If you call tech support (at least the two times that I did) you immediately get a person who seems to know what they are talking about - and they sound like an American). I have been using it for years, same price, no technical difficulties, I just keep adding more and more pictures. they back up the site, they have some stats that you can look at. I am happy with it. That is my site it by the way (some parts of it are out of date). You can click on the red text to see how I organize my car show pictures): http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/ Rebecca

My metal building is built by Erect-a-tube. I have 100 A sub panel in my unit. (which has a few 220 30A for lifts, and 220 50A for welder, and 20A 110 outlets). Rebecca

Is this adaptor for a T-5? Rebecca

I like Rhode Island Wire. I installed one for my 50 Buick and I was impressed with the quality. Rebecca

Yes thank you thank you thank you. I have not yet proven that my leak is coming from here but it is a substantial leak that appears to be spraying oil all over the place. My drum brake is pretty dry so I was thinking that the tranny rear main is not the cause. last weekend was too wet to do any investigation. I hope to solve it this weekend. Rebecca

yes. that looks exactly like what I have and the seal looks the same. I don't know if it is the source of my leak but it is suspect. I will look for an 0-ring that can be substituted for it. Thanks for the tip. Roberts motorparts has also suggested that my rear main tranny seal could be the problem. I did not think that the ebrake looked oily so I am not sure if that was it but he did say that this type of leak would cause oil to spray upwards (which I am seeing). I will probably change it anyway. thanks, Rebecca

Well, it was kind of dark when I arrived in Lawrence. I picked my husband up in Acton on the way back to Lawrence because he said that he wanted a ride in my car. I think that he was a little spooked by the lighting situation. I am going to improve it this winter. I wonder if I can get halogen bulbs for my headlights. Rebecca

Hm, I don't remember seeing any seal. I just stuck the gear houseing into the hole and screwed it in. If it does not rain this weekend I will find out more. thanks, Rebecca

I can install the cable ASAP (just got it in the mail). However I have no idea if a disconnected cable can cause an oil leak (I did not notice any leaks before I installed the drive gear). In other words, with just a gaping hole there I did not notice a leak, but if I installed the drive gear then I noticed big leak. this might have been a coincidence. After I install the cable I will find out. I am suspecting that really I have a bad seal and it was a coincidence. Rebecca

ok. I will try 160. I don't think that I have even seen 160 fluid gear oil in the auto parts store. Rebecca

By the way, I have noticed that in the last few years there seems to be an renewed appreciation for inline engines. Rebecca

Here are the pics that I took: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/CarEvents2009/AlterBoys/index.html I got a lot of pics of Moose's cool A (and his cool 55). Rebecca

I did not install it (trying to get bugs out of what previous owner did). If this was the problem then I would think that the source of the leak would appear to be in that location. It is not obvious where it is coming from but it seems to be more the right side and it is getting on the bottom of the floor (not just dripping down it seems to be quirting). Rebecca

I have 36 Plymouth 3 speed. my 34-36 manual says to use SAE 160. my 36-42 manual says to use SAE 90. I used NAPA SAE 90 fluid gear oil. It was a lot runnier than I was expecting. Am I using the recommended stuff? Also, I am trying to figure out where my huge transmission leak is coming from. Most of it seems to be coming from the right side. It seems to be squirting all over the place (including above). My speedo cable is not currently connected. Could oil be coming out of the speedo drive? I would not think so but I don't remember noticing the leak until I installed the speedo drive. (but not the cable which is going in soon). Rebecca

thanks. I have just done this. I did not notice that feature. very useful and makes the articles more readable. thanks. Rebecca

I meant to say "did not". sorry. Rebecca

I forgot to add, that I did just blindly copy the old wires, I checked the diagrams and identified everything first but having the old wires still connected provided more information to cross reference. that was the key thing. always cross reference each connection with a couple of sources and then you be very sure that it is correct. doing this is pretty easy. Cheers, Rebecca

When I bought my Buick it came with an uninstalled $600 front wiring harness (everything under the panel and under the hood) that the previous owner was afraid to tackle. It was from Rhode Island Wire (Massachusetts). In installed this myself on a 95 degree day and finished most of the work in one day (probably should say it was a weekend job but the bulk of it was one day). Rhode Island Wire makes really nice looking stuff for stock installations. They have a long list of harness but they never make anything from diagrams (the first one that they make they want to have a real example to copy so someone has to send them one). This means that for less common cars they might not have it (but they might have one for another model for the same year and make that is very similar). When I replaced this harness I completely cut off the old harness at the firewall but left the wires connected under the panel. I did a similar thing in other places. The old wire color codes and sizes were still identifiable if you compare them to the new one (which used the exact same colors). So I just changed the wires one by one (removed the old ones one by one as I added the new ones). I did testing with my ohm meter along the way to make sure that things worked. I found three mistakes in the harness that were just wrong terminal (wires were all correct). Surprisingly everything worked perfectly when I connected it to the battery for the first time (but I tested it carefully). I need weak reading glasses (1.0) for arms length stuff but I have found that when you are working under the panel you are forced to have your face only inches from stuff. I use 3.0 reading glasses for this and it works fine. You will need standard tools for electrical work, a multi-meter, curcuit diagrams (for QA),and wire lists that come with the kit (to inventory words and terminals before you start and to check them off after you connect and test them). Here are some pictures. They are self explanatory (show what wire looks like, tools needed, work environment, paperwork that came with it etc). Sorry it is a Buick but the same work for any car: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image049.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image053.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image054.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image055.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image056.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image057.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image058.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image061.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image062.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image063.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image064.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image065.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image066.html http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image067.html In this picture you can see the old harness chopped off at the firewall and the harness being routed in. On this car some of the work can be done from outside but you still have to crawl under the panel for a lot of it: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image043.html I did not just blindly copy the old wires, I checked the diagrams and identified everything first but having the old wires still connected provided more information to cross reference. that was the key thing. always cross reference each connection with a couple of sources and then you be very sure that it is correct. doing this is pretty easy. Rebecca

Well, After finally successfully replacing my rear drum/hubs I been driving my D 230 powered 1936 p2 coupe quite a bit in the last few weeks and I have now got a list of winter projects that I will need advice on. Here is an prioritized introduction to what I will be obsessing on this winter: 1) oil leaks everywhere but rear of engine seems to be worst. I am assuming that my rear seal is bad. I was driving with the clutch cover removed (different story) and oil was slung all over the place. I am assuming that if I had the cover installed, the oil would have collected in that clutch cover pan and leaked out of a drain oil (oil leak would have been concentrated in one place and oil would not have been slung up onto bottom of the car). How hard is it to replace the rear main seal? I am assuming that the oil pan and flywheel/ring gear has to be removed (what has to be removed in order to remove that - clutch?). Is there anything else that I should do if I have it removed? I see that there is another thread about this and i am reading. 2) I am having a lot of vibration (engine shakes but it does not misfire - I don't think that there are any ignition or induction problems but I am still looking). I am pretty sure that this engine should run very smoothly. I don't know if the cam is stock (I was assuming that it was). It almost seems like it could be due to some kind of problem with other parts of the drive train further back. I am still investigating. I am going to double check the timing but I think that it is fine. Could a throwout bearing that does not have enough lube cause vibration? 3) Some parts of my steering need rebuilding (drag link). I will work on that this winter. I did just replace the ty-rod ends. 4) horrendous squeak (metal on metal noise) in front end when going over bumps. I am thinking that the grease did not get into the front spring shackles. I will try again with new grease fittings. the noise is horrendous. 5) shocks 6) new exhaust that fits right. LOWER PRIORITY: 7) fix trunk (can't open the trunk because latch is loose on inside - need to crawl in from the inside and fix it). 8) remove house carpet on floor and install rug. should there be a pad under the rug or can the rubber just sit on the painted metal. I was worried about moisture under it. Also, I am missing some rubber grommets around stuff that goes through the floor and firewall. 9) rebuild wiper motors and install new vacuum lines. 10) wire rear brake lights for two filament bulbs and install signal switch (brake lights will blink for signal). 11) install "brake lighter" third brake light in back window. link it up with brake lights. I have seen them used as signals too (left or right half). I might do that too. 12) seat belts - at least lap belt but possibly harness. 13) find a second set of wheels and get black wall tires - I like the way black walls look on this car.

these look like the parts that I am looking for but I am not sure they are quite like the one on the 36 plymouth. I was told that plymouths from 35-37 had the same part. I already called Andy Bernbaum and he did not have any. I will call Roberts tomorrow to see what he knows. Thanks so much for the info. Rebecca

I know that this is not the right forum for this question but since I hang out here I thought I would post it incase someone has some parts lying around. My 1936 Plymouth has a cowling that hinges on each side of a center strip that runs from the top of the radiator to the top of the firewall. there is a metal piece that the center cowling strip slides into at both ends. I just figured out that I am missing a chrome piece that is supposed to fit on top of this and pin it down so that it stays in place. I don't think that anyone manufactures this. Does anyone who knows what I am talking about know where I can get these two pieces? I thought I would ask before I spend a lot of time trying to make them myself. Thanks, Rebecca

wow, your engine looks awesome!! Rebecca

I for the hookup, I found a nice replacement heat pipe repair kit at NAPA. Rebecca

that is good info but the test that I was referring to was the chemical test where you suck air at the top of the radiator (while the engine is running) through some purple chemical fluid. If there is the slightest evidence of combustion gas getting into the radiator the fluid turns yellow. I have been told that this is a very conclusive test (slightest leak will cause a color change) but this is the first time that I ever tried it. Has anyone else done this? I got the kit from NAPA. Commercial auto repair places use it to confirm head problems. Rebecca