n1gzd_plymouth

Well they do have a big "L" on the bolts. Rebecca

The reason why I have left hand bolts on the left rear must be because I have a 41 rear end and the person who installed it must have used the drum/hub assemblys from that as well. This would explain why I have left ones on the left rear but not the left front. I could fix this but it is probably not worth the effort for now (but at least I understand why it is happening). thanks for the info about the glass of water. I have something to work towards. Rebecca

The reason why I have left hand bolts on the left rear must be because I have a 41 rear end and the person who installed it must have used the drum/hub assemblys from that as well. This would explain why I have left ones on the left rear but not the left front. I could fix this but it is probably not worth the effort for now (but at least I understand why it is happening). thanks for the info about the glass of water. I have something to work towards. Rebecca

Even thought I have seen lots of popular old mopar mounts listed that look completely different, I have now found several pictures of NOS 1936 plymouth mounts that look like mine. I thought it looked too good to be home made. Thanks for helping. Rebecca

I am having the same type of overheating problems with my straight 8 powered 50 Buick so I know what you are going through. good luck. Rebecca

Last weekend I had a chance to see 2 other 36 plymouths (one of them was completely original barn fresh - quite amazing). Unfortunately he left before I could see all of his car. Regarding 36. According to all of the parts sources that I have checked, 35 and later have the same engine mounts. (not like mine). However, I have not checked what was on the donor dodge truck (where the engine came from). My mounts look worn but I think that they are not in danger of braking. It would be possible to do a custom rebuild job if this is not a part that can be found. (probably I can't find these). How much should my engine shake at low rpm? Perhaps I need to make a video to show what I observe. Also, I feel a lot of vibration in the gear shift knob (not shaking, just vibration). Would you expect this? My larger concern is knocking noises (I assume that squeaky springs is nothing to worry about). My tie rod end can wiggle up and down (spring is not very strong) but the wheel does not wiggle much (extra play is mostly up and down) and this does cause a noise (one source of annoying noises). Some of my mechanical linkages seem to be missing a lot of bushings (especially for e-brake). I should be able to invent what is missing. Exhaust pipe hits in numerous places. I will replace the entire thing. I am not sure how it is supposed to be routed. I might just get a stock 36 exhaust and hope that it fits. I saw a 37 that had the pipe routed under the cross member (mine goes through it). I am also putting in tube shocks in rear. I have already removed the knee-action shocks. I have some shocks for a 37 plymouth that I am going to use. I will change the bracket at for the spring u bolts to one that has an ear to mount the lower end of the shock and I will use one of the already existing holes in the frame above for the other mount point. I have not decided if it should go in front of or behind the axle (I have seen cars with it both ways). I will start a new thread when I have pictures of this. Rebecca

Here is one more picture showing my engine mounts that I am trying to identify (is this stock for any mopar flathead powered car or truck, or is this fabricated). Is it ok? The engine shakes from side to side a bit but perhaps this is ok for so called "floating power". So in addition to engine mounts I am still reviewing my rear hub situation. I think that I understand the problem. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of my hubs when the wheels and drums were off but you can see in these pictures of my left and rear wheels that the rivets are ground flat and on the left side the one that is a pin is also ground off. On the right side the pin is knocked out but there is a hole so I can see how much if at all the drum has shifted. I am assuming that if I remove my cotter pin, castle nut and washer then I will see the axle shaft key. Is that correct? I could pull off the hub (drum already removed) by just using the hub puller (the normal technique). If I did this I would see a a hub that looks like a flange with a tapered center and a keyway showing. This key is the only thing that keeps the hub from spinning when the shaft is torqued. Regarding the pin that is in place of one of the rivets. It appears that this pin is hammered in from the outside of the drum. Could I just get one of these pins and hammer it in as a way to help keep the drum from turning and to make it easier to line up? Would it be possible to remove these hubs and bring it and new drums to a machine shop and have them knock out the old rivets and re-rivet a new drum onto it (including the missing pin)? Are these drums available new? Is it likely that my brakes pulsating a little at slow speeds is caused by a misalignment of the drums or will the wheel bolts keep it in position. I think that I will try adjusting the brakes one more time in case this is actually the main problem. It seems that the best solution would be to find a new set of very nice hub/drums and swap them (and perhaps try and rebuild the old ones and keep as a spare). It appears that greasing the rear wheel bearings is easy in this type of design if you don't have trouble pulling the hub. (that is the hardest part). How about re-installing it. If it was hard to pull off, is it hard to press back on? I am assuming that it goes right on but then you have to tap in the key. Is that correct? Just place it on the shaft, seat it where it goes and tap the key in and then tighten up the castle nut (by tightening it most of the way and then backing it off until the cotter pin lines up and you are done). Is this correct? Thanks so much, Rebecca

so has anyone ever seen engine mounts like these before or do you think that this is a modification. The metal support part of these mounts appears to be cast (not cheap homemade solution). Here is the casting number from my bell housing: 851252-3 This number was hard to read. It is possible that the first number was something else such as a "B". Also the "1" was a little hard to read but I am not sure what else it could have been. On the other side of the casting I found "5-27". My flywheel says "393077". It looks to me like my clutch was new before the car sat. the springs around the outside are orange and the ones in the middle appear to be green. Is the color an indication of the strength of the spring. In a book that I looked at colors were listed but I could not find colors like mine. What is the oil line that appears to connect to the throw out bearing and terminates in some kind of dipstick? Is there some kind of maintenance that I am supposed to do with this? Is it easy to change the cloth boots that protect the ball and trunion area at each end of the drive shaft? It appears that you can just remove the clamps and un hook it and then install a new one. I have seen this part in the Roberts catalog. Thanks. Rebecca

Here is the front and rear view of my engine mounts (which are under the rear part of the bell housing). I will post more pics tomorrow. Rebecca

The guy I got it from said that it was a 41 rear end. Clearly something is wrong because I can't see now the drum can be fixed in a known location because of the fact that it does not fit snugly against the center of the hub. More pictures will be needed. I can see evidence that there were rivets that were ground. Clearly the drum should not practially fall off when I remove the wheel. I need to resolve this ASAP but I need more information to share. Un the meantime, I have not had very much luck finding good picture of the pieces that I would expect if I had one of the two common drums (10 inch or 11 inch) and one of the common hub styles. There are plenty of pictures of drum/hub removal but very few pictures of what it looks like on the other side. more later. thanks. Rebecca

I will try and get a picture tonight. I have a cross member that I think is a little further back and has completely different looking mounts. They are shaped like a square sandwitch and are vertically mounted and clamp onto the cross member. I don't know if they were the "invention" of the person who tried rebuilding this car or something that came from a truck. Hopefully this will be more clear when I get the pics. My brake problem is a big mystery as well. Clearly something is wrong. If I remove my wheels the drums practically fall off (no puller needed). I am sure that this is why I feel a little bit of slow speed pulsing in the breaks. I probably need new hubs and drums to fix this. I will probably not be able to get pictures of that until next weekend. Rebecca

Yes. that is perfect. I just need to jack up the rear of the car and determine what my gear ratio is. thanks. Rebecca

I do not have those engine mounts nor is there a cross member below the place where those mounts are. I wonder if I should install one. I really have to get a picture. stay tuned. Rebecca

It is not really a shake (like I would expect from bad drive driveshaft balance or joints). It is really a vibration like the kind you would feel from bad engine mounts. Regarding rubber fittings. that sounds like what I have (and the other more common rear engine mount is missing). I really need to take some pictures. My car is not at home so I have to wait until I can get there (I had to leave in a hurry yesterday). Thanks, again. Rebecca

Thanks for checking. I could not read it after enlarging. Does the chart include both 36 plymouth and 41 plymouth? I probably need 41 but if they are the same that would make it definite. I am guessing it is somewhere between 16 and 19. Rebecca

Ok. then if retainer is same for all then I would probably be safe for now assuming that I have a 41 rear end (this is what I was told). so I just need to figure out how many teeth this would be. Right now I just want something in the hole and I would like to see if my speedometer works. I can adjust to the right number of teeth later. I am assuming that with that hole, I was operating the transmission with a hole open to the outside (bad, dirt can get in). Rebecca

well, I really need to get a picture to post. My two squre sandwich shaped mounts (which I think are under the back of the bellhousing or under the front of the transmission are all that is holding up the back of the engine (as far as I can see). Is the speedo drive gear the same for most cars? Do I just get one and screw it in and then screw in the speedo cable? Is it as easy as that or is there some kind of calibration to do. Also, is there something that I will need to do to get it to engage with the gears in the transmission when I screw it in (some trick). Does anyone know where I can get one. I will call Roberts. Thanks, Rebecca

I finally got my 230 powered 36 Plymouth running and drivable. Thanks to Moose for an aircleaner and some other small parts. I took it out for some test runs last weekend (including 55 mph on the highway). It runs reasonably well and the transmission and clutch seem fine. On the highway I did not notice any shaking or pulling to the side or directional stability. However, there is a lot of vibration (particularly in the stick shift shaft) and knocking noises, and bouncing (I know the reason for some of this). In addition, I think that I have an issue with some mismatched brake parts in as yet unidentified rear end. What is the max rpm that would be just fine for this engine on the highway? My oil pressure was about 55-60 when not at idle. My water temp stayed very steady at about 165-170. Lots of things are leaking but after going to a car show and looking under all of the similar powered mopar cars I have decided that mine is not as bad as most that I saw. Sorry not to have pictures of these [problems below yet (this weekend). I have a long list of mechanical issues that I still need to resolve. These things are mostly the result of the project being incomplete and not stock (car has drive train parts from various other cars). I need to take a picture of some of these and post them. I have identifie the engine but not the transmission, clutch, or rear end. However, here are a few things that I am still dealing with: 1) I am still trying to identify which transmission I have and what motor mount/bellhousing mount I am supposed to have. so far I only know this. The 230 CI has been identified as being from Dodge truck. My transmission is floor shift. The actuator for the hand brake is on the right side of the transmission. The associated clutch linkages are on the left side of the transmission. My clutch return spring seems to be hooked to the wrong place (works but does not make sense because there is no hole in the frame where it is hooked). The speedo cable is not yet hooked up. (was not hooked up when I got the car which was an unfinished project). On the right side of the transmission about 3/4 of the way up the housing there is an open threaded hole that is 3/4 inch (possibly as large as an inch). What is this? Is this for the speedo cable? Is something missing (the cable would not be able to attach here without other hardware sticking out). Also, I noticed that in the manual that I have, that something fitting this description is on the left side of the transmission (mine is on the right). What clues should I look for to identify what transmission I might have? Is it possible that this transmission was from the Dodge truck. Behind the rear of the engine, under the transmission bell housing area there are two "sandwich shaped" engine or transmission mounts vertically mounted, and slightly tilted towards the outside of the car (like 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock). I cannot find a single two piece engine mount (the one that in catalogs looks like two round mounts that mount one above the other). I also can't find any engine or bell housing mounts that look like mine in any catalog. I am wondering if I am looking at some kind of non standard installation or am I looking at something copied from the way the engine was mounted in the Dodge truck. Does anyone have a picture of the things that I describe here or a lead on what engine mounts I am supposed to have or that I do have (source of replacement)? The rear mounts that i have (that appear to be under the bellhousing) are bolted to a frame cross member that I think is in the stock location (but I can't assume that). I will try and get pictures next weekend. My engine does seem to rock back and forth (side to side) more than I would expect at idle. How much movement is normal with this type of ("floating power") - my front mount is a 1936 Plymouth mount that has been modified to fit the 230 CI engine (mount holes in different places). It is in good shape. I am wondering if my engine is being correctly supported at the rear. by the way, my clutch springs are orange (this color was not one of the colors mentioned in the manual that I looked at). 2) misc clunks and rattles. Certainly the springs squeak and the non stock exhaust rattles. I am not worrying about that for now. I am having a pretty annoying knocking in the front end that I am trying to isolate (reason for questions about engine mount). Some of the things that are obviously rattling (identified while standing under the car) will be easy to fix after I decide what the right missing parts are. One such area is the linkage that actuates the parking brake (on the right side of the transmission). There are clearly some bushings and spacers missing. Does anyone have pictures? Also, does anyone have pictures of where my clutch return spring should be? 3) The brakes stop the car easily. However, I am having trouble with them pulsing the motion of the car as I just come to a stop (mostly noticed while applying the brakes gently as you are coming to a stop). when I was re-installing the wheels I noticed some things that must be wrong about the rear hubs and drums. the wheel fits exactly over the hub (as expected). However, the drum inner diameter where it fits over the hub is slightly larger hole than the size of the hub. Possibly this does not matter. the wheel bolt holes in the hub flange, drum and wheel do line up (of course, or I could not ge the bolts in). However, there is supposed to be a small pin sticking out of the hub that will key the wheel and drum so that they are in the right place correct? I see this in the front. Without this pin and with the fact that the inner diameter of the hole in the middle of the drum is slightly larger than than the hole in the middle of the wheel and the diameter of the hub that it fits over it is possible to get the drum slighly off center (because of this slop and the fact that the holes for the wheel bolts have some slop as well). On the right side there is a hole in the flange where I think that a pin is supposed to go. I stuck a punch in this hole, thus forcing the drum to to be centered better and then tightened the wheel bolts. the wheel then could spin freely. On the other side, there was again no centering pin and there was not even a hole in the flange where it should go. Here is what I think that the consequence of the pin missing is: Initially when I just installed it I could not turn the wheel after I cranked down the wheel bolts. I loostened it and then centered spun the wheel freely. this seems to have made the drum center itself. then I tightened the wheel bolts some more and spun it again. using this technique I think that I got it in the center. Is the drum supposed to fit exactly over the hub the way the wheel does or is it supposed to be a tiny bit larger. Is the purpose of this pin to be to ensure that the drum is centered correctly (if the drum does not fit tightly on the hub). I also found out that the pin would have made it easier to install the wheels. Although the pin was present in the front I did notice that both the right and left front wheel bolt sets were "R" - one should have been "L" so I know that these parts are not original. I don't think that this slow speed brake pulsing is just a matter of brake adjustment but I could be wrong. The wear pattern on the rear brake drums (metal wear inside the drums) looks normal from the little bit of driving that I did. Sorry for not having pics yet (but I will get them this weekend). Here is a few pic of the car at it's first cruise night event: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/PlymouthFirstTimeOut/ Rebecca

ok. so I should be ok with rear end 90W gearbox oil but I need to find some other 90W gear oil for my tranny and steering box. Hopefully it will be obvious which product to buy when I am in the store (general gearbox oil but not for rear end). Thanks, Rebecca

ok. so I think that I understand that you think that I can use the 90 weight differential oil that I already bought (very common stuff) for both of these oils (my diffy, my tranny and my steering gear box). Thanks, Rebecca

I have a 36 plymouth with 230 CI engine and probably stock rear end and transmission (for now I am assumging that). The book says that for tranny and steering gearbox I should use: SAE 90 FLUID GEAR LUBRICANT (LOW COLD TEST) and the book says that for rear end I should use: SAE 90 EXTREME PRESSURE HYPOID GEAR LUBRICANT (LOW COLD TEST) Can someone please translate these two things into what modern available products I should use. Thanks, Rebecca

awesome. How does it sound? Rebecca

I live near boston and I have never heard of that. I would say that this is a lousy hotel thing. Rebecca

that one looks perfect. the smaller the better for this application. thanks. I will call you saturday morning to see if you are around. Thanks!! Rebecca

Hey Moose. Thanks for the offer. I can come by this weekend if you have something. I will update you on my progress too (very very close to being able to try starting the engine). Rebecca