n1gzd_plymouth

thanks for all of the good advice. my rear shock links are missing (but the shocks are still there). I am going to remove the shocks and convert to tube type shocks. I am going to do this by duplicating the installation on a 37 plymouth. It looks like it will be pretty straight forward. there is no red hotrod in the pic (you might be just seeing my red fender pad). However, these are my other vehicles that might be in the views: (1936 Plymouth coupe) 1950 Buick Super Riviera 1958 Desoto Firesweep 1962 MGA MKII Rebecca

well, I might have my terminology wrong, I was just repeating what it says in my 1936-1942 plymouth service manual on page 124 in the explosion diagram of the carb. It referrs to the needle shaped pointed thing that prevents fuel from comming in as the "float needle", the thing that it seats against (and that at the other end doubles as the fitting where you screw in your fuel line tube) as the "float needle seat". Also, on the next page when it describes disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly it repeatedly referrs to it as a needle valve. This "needle valve" is situated horrizontally and the tab that is moved by the float pushes on the blunt end of it causing the shaft to slide through a centering tube and push it aginst the seat that matches it's shape thus shutting off the flow of fuel. the only thing that prevents fuel from coming in is the presure of the tab actuated by the float. I was thinking that if the float was bobbing around too much because the engine was shaking terribly(for whatever reason) that this shaft (needle) would bob in and out letting fuel keep squirting in and over fill the bowl. I will report back what I find after I replace the engine mount and check the other obvious things (such as ignition and such). I have only driven this car once and I am still getting the bugs out of it (mostly things that the previous owner did wrong). I am having fun but I wish I could have driven the car more before winter (new toy, want to play with it before snow and salt). Thanks for the help. I can see that this will be a very valuable resource. Rebecca

Thanks. I am of course checking everything. Since the engine mount absolutely needs changing I am getting that over with first. By the way, the picture above of an engine mount that might be the right one is very helpful. Here is a picture of what I think might be the engine mount that is in the car and you can see from this picture why I keep asking about the spacing between the studs (it looks like this one has a bolt for half of it not a stud). It is either this one or the one posted above (that has the top and bottom studs that line up with each other. Rebecca

I have the U shaped motor mount thing from the 36 car (has one bolt hole in it not two like the pictures in this thread). It sounds like one of the two rubber motor mounts that I have to choose from will fit. I just have to measure the distance between the stud holes in the U shaped motor mount before selecting them. I think that you have proven to me that the distance between the stud holes on the engine side is the same for both engines so it is the distance between the holes in the u shaped support piece that will determine which part number I need (Andy Bernbaum has both). Thanks, Rebecca

Well, I will of course replace the engine mount first. My carter carburetor does indeed have a needle valve (I have seen it). It is the type that is mounted horrizontally and the valve seat doubles as the fitting where you screw in the fuel line. I have had it overhauled and the float level should be set correctly (but I will check that too). I will report back what I found one. By the way, on a slightly unrelated note, one guy showed me his willys manual where it said if you have a carburetor flooding problem check the motor mounts. Rebecca

the picture above shows the mount but now I am curious to see more pictures. Rebecca

how do you lift it with an engine hoist? I could not see a hook or loop on the top of the engine to attach it to. Are you saying that it is a bad idea to push up on the oil pan (with a block of wood). Would that deform the pan and cause it to leak? I can probably borrow an engine hoist if it is the only right way to do it. My car weights a lot less than the trucks (36 coupe). if the fan is out do I really need to remove anything else (like the radiator)? I don't think that the radator is easy to remove in my car because the fenders are connected to it. However, the book for my 36 does show how to just remove the radator core in order to access the front of the engine. Perahps I have to do that. I am hoping that with the fan out of the way I will be able to move the engine support brace (whatever you call it) forward. As far as what rubber mount part will fit my car I am starting to think that it is possible that none of them will fit without modification because the holes on the brace might be from the 36 and the holes on the engine might be from the 52 and they won't match the part. I think that what I am going to have to do is order both of them and hope that one fits. On the other hand, I know that the distance betweent he holes on the engine side needs to be 4.5 inches. that might be enough information to get the parts guy to select which one I need. However, I have not been able to measure the distance between the studs on the bottom piece. Thanks again. I think that I need to learn how to remove the radator core because I will need it out of the way for other jobs. Rebecca

I use shell rotella because it still has the zinc. They removed it from their other oils. Rebecca

Here are a few: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/PlymouthGallery/index.html Rebecca

On the block T3I0 is stamped but I understand that it really referrs to the 310 1 ton truch (1951-1954). Rebecca

yes. that looks like mine. The piece that you are calling a "horseshoe" is what I am calling the lower engine support. It sounds like you agree that there is no way to remove the engine mount (my name for the rubber part with studs sticking out of it that I am trying to remove) without removing the lower engine support. It sounds like I should be able to un bolt it and slide it forward just enough to get at the nuts on the bottom and that I will have to remove the belt and possibly the fan. Is it ok for me to jack the engine up by putting a piece of wood under the forward part of the oil pan? I did that once to see that I could lift it. Do I need to worry about deforming the oil pan (and causing it to leak). Thanks for the help. Rebecca

just to be clear, it is the bottom part (lower two studs) that I am having trouble with, not the top two). I have seen a picture of this engine mount in the catalog. Here's the problem (second problem). The catalog lists two different ones. The one for the 36 plymouth is different than the one for the 52 Dodge truck (my engine is out of the truck). I think that the space between the upper (and possibly lower) studs is different so I don't yet know which part fits my car because I have a mismatch between engine and chassis. I am sure there is a way to figure it out but I need to get what I have out first so I can measure it. I did determine that the engine side holes are 4.5 inches apart (center to center). I have not yet been able to measure the distance between the holes in my engine support (because I can't get at the holes from below and on the top side the engine mount that I can't remove is still there). so in short, I have managed to free up the top side of the engine mount because i jacked up the engine, but not the bottom side. What I am I missing? Thanks so much. I am really frustrated. Rebecca

I am not sure that my engine mount looks what you are describing (or it is not installed correctly because the previous owner tried to re-use the one for the 36 Plymouth instead of using the one for the later engine. What you are describing is basicly what I am seeing except: The mount looks like a metal sandwich with rubber in the middle. In the catalog pictures it looks like there are two studs that point up and two studs that point down. I removed the nut on the studs that are pointing up (actually one of the studs was missing because the hole on the engine side was in the wrong place - earlier engine?). Then I jacked up against the oil pan (with a block of wood). I got a big gap between the engine and the shock mount but the shock mount is still bolted to the engine support bracket. If I look up at it from below there are what appears to be two stud nuts fastening it down. It looks like I need to remove those nuts so I can lift out the engine mount. I can't get at the nuts on the bottom side of the engine support brace (or whatever you call it). I am sorry that I am having trouble describing this. Do I need to start disassembling the front end of my coupe or is there a trick that I have not thought of. Rebecca

I am trying to remove the front engine mount. I have a 230 CI engine (TI0 from 52 Dodge truck). It is installed in my 36 Plymouth coupe with the wrong front engine mount (studs don't line up with holes - I think that later engines had a slightly different front mount). I have jacked up the engine and I thought it would be easy to just remove the mount but I can't get at the lower two nuts. Is it even possible to do this or do I need to remove the entire engine suport bracket to get at these nuts. Please tell me there is a trick that I had not thought of!!! If not, it seems that I need to remove the fan/water pump, and timing chain cover and everything else and remove the engine mount support bracket from the frame. I am changing the mount because the one in my car does not fit and is in bad shape. Also, I think that because of this, the carburetor is flooding the engine because the engine is shaking so much that the needle valve never seats. Thanks, Rebecca

I have a 1936 plymouth coupe with a TI0 Dodge truck engine (which I think is from 1951 or 1952). I have joined this group in hopes that people can answer some of my questions about my 230 CI engine (which is enough different than the original 36 engine that I could not find the answers in the manual). Rebecca