Branded
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Everything posted by Branded
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Well , I'm not buying before the machine work is done, never mentioned I was buying before machine work is done. Reread my original post. I'm farming my machine work out but will be building the engine myself
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Who's the best vendor to purchase a master rebuild kit from. Haven't called any local parts houses yet, just curious where others have sourced their kits. Thanks Dave
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And there's also Rusty Hope http://rustyhope.com/site/mopar-discbrakes/
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Can you tell me what the stamping is on the block. I'm going to look at a engine Friday if I can't use it due to cracks I might be interested. I'll send you a PM Thanks Dave
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My 49 Wayfarer has D30 stamped on the block, this denotes 230 from my research. I'm assuming it's the original block because my car was titled with the block number. When I bought the car 2 years ago and brought the car to Indiana I had the car titled using the body serial number just in case the engine was ever changed.
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I'm trying to remember when I had mine apart but I'm thinking the fluid coupling needs to come out first otherwise the bellhousing won't clear the coupling. If that's the case you won't need to remove the bellhousing. With the fluid coupling out of the way the seal mounting bolts will be exposed.
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Yes, you need to support the engine and remove the rear mounts and bolts. You will also need to remove the fluid coupling, it is mounted to the crankshaft with 8 bolts. Be ready when you pull the fluid coupling, its heavy. Once the fluid coupling is removed the seal halves can then be replaced. After second thought you may be able to remove the fluid coupling after pulling the transmission with out pulling the bellhousing, no 100% sure if there's enough room or not.
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No I'm not certain it's a power flyte just going by what the seller has told me, he's going to pull the transmission and check the crankshaft flange and get back with me.
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It does have a diamond stamped on it, so I suppose this would be a 230.
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Located a 230 engine and Poweflight 2 speed automatic out of a 1954 Plymouth. Motor and trans is all together. Anyone able to tell me if this engines crankshafthas the 8 bolt flange to accept a fluid coupling from my 49 Dodge. I don't want to ask the fella to break the engine and transmission apart and waste his time if I can't use it. Owner of the says it's a 230 engine but from what I've found Plymouth didn't make a 230 until 1955.
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Pm sent
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Yes I am, weighing my options on finding a block that isn't cracked and rebuilding a 230 or possibly going with a later model 318. I'm leaning towards staying with a 230, I like the flatheads.
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Thanks Reg, good information there.
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I just learned something, thought only the 230 had the 8 bolt flange for the flywheel
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Casting numbers or stamped numbers?
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I'm going to start searching for a 230 engine for future use. Other than having an 8 bolt flange on the rear of the crankshaft what are some othe ways of verification. This will be used in my 49 Wayfarer Convertible, I have noticed a external hair line crack in the water jacket near the starter. Doesn't leak enough to make a wet spot, just enough to make a stain.
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My NOS temperature gauge I bought a few months back has failed me. When my engine is cold it reads 150 degrees, at operating temperature it is pegged. I believe the capillary tube must be leaking. Anyone recommend someone to make repairs.
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Jack the front of the vehicle up so the drain plug is the lowest point, drain with engine oil hot.
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Thanks for the information. I have a 49 Wayfarer that I'm going to have a top put on some day. Kind of hard to justify though because the top isn't extreme bad, one very small hole that isn't really noticeable and one snap that ripped out. When ever we have the Wayfarer out for a cruise the top is down so nobody sees it anyway.
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If you mind me asking, what is customary charge to install a new top. Thanks
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Rich hate to hear this happened, I borrowed tools from you in the past and appreciated to service you provided.
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I like it, looks good.
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There lies the difference, from what I've read the locking gas caps for some reason vent both ways.
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That is what I'm trying to explain, yes you can buy a vented cap for our cars at Napa and most other parts stores. The problem is they are vented only to allow air in, the check valves are mandated by the EPA to not allow gas vapors to escape to atmosphere. I'm not nor will I turn this into a whizzing match. I stated how to resolve the issue on the check valve to allow the tank to vent both ways. I'll leave it at that sir.
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I would think the pressure build up is going to possibly push fuel past the needle and seat, could cause flooding problems, diaphragm issues with the fuel pump, gaskets and seals.
