Sharps40

any good 6v starter will run fine for years and years on 12v. If you crank it for days, then like any starter, it'll overheat and burn out. There may be 12v options out there but ask lots of members here.....6v starter and 12v battery will work fine on a motor that's not so worn out that it takes forever to crank it up.

Yer worrien bout stuff that don't matter for the OPs question. Alkaline/acid, who cares. OP likes green, Green works good, that's why its been around and as long as the electrical systems are right good grounded, not much chance of galvanic action eating away the aluminum radiator....course, green prolly won't eat it neither even without voltage in the coolant. OP just build a good clean and fresh and properly functioning cooling system, check the grounds, tune the motor right and fill the block with whatever ya want, water is a universal solvent and will eventually dissolve yer block but, not in your lifetime. So, water, alcohol, green, even dexcool if ya just like the neat color, whatever, its all coolant and it'll all perform admirably in a good system and dont' worry about heliumdioxide bubbles in yer balloons.

Who cares?. Never had an aluminum or brass part destroyed by green. Had Plenty leaked that had dexcool though. Green was first (after water and alcohol) in the old ones. Two things. Green is still around and works fine. My advice is based on my experience. Others mileage may vary. Like I said.....system good, probably don't need to over think coolant. Mebby save the brain power for keepin the modern less gas than real gas from boilin outta the carbs or determining if close pins really prevent vapor lock or if Indian Head Gasket shellac is the best gasket sealant in the universe or if Fluid Drive really is a step backwards in overall performance....ad infinitum

Green is good for all. I even drain the dexcool acid stuff outta the gm's and put in green. Nary a problem with green. Course, nary a problem with water neither but at least green helps with freezing when its cold. As long as the system is good shape you don't have to over think the coolant.

Yep. nothing over .3 volts is good. One of many links to testing the coolant for electrical ground faults. http://www.aa1car.com/library/cooling_system_electrolysis_corrosion.htm

Check voltage through coolant....google the procedures. (I seem to recall one checks the voltage through the coolant running and not running) What you are concerned about should not occur if the system is properly grounded and the overall resistance is low/in spec. As I recall, if its under .3ish volts running, yer good to go.

Best and most pointed advisement you've typed yet!

I reckon OP knows he needs compression fuel and spark.......so lets try to help out instead of almost always asking silly questions for literary effect or simple post count padding.... OP....Consider putting the old coil and/or condenser back on if it ran good before ya swapped in the new stuff. Test ride. Given todays quality ya may well have a coil/condenser that's crappin out hot. Many of the new stuff is like that. Any time you put new stuff in (especially if the car ran okay with the old stuff) and it goes bad, check the new stuff for the fault first, then other items/systems in a logical order.

Could be lean,, could be valves open early due to too much ignition advance (i.e. balancer slipped and the 4 degrees Before you read at the balancer is really much higher.....) http://www.mikuni.com/tg_backfires_through.html

Have to concur on the 4 link. Talked with the builder on my 37. He said to keep the leaf springs out back if you actually plan to put people in the vehicle and drive it a lot. Better ride by far in his experience.

Probably cant see the smoke driving backwards as it gets under the car and blown/mixed around/thinned out....but its likely there. Pyro....did you ever purchase a Motors manual? As PA indicates, you have a lot going on and since the head was off, another several layers of back checking to do. Might be best to read up and pick a basic starting point and work through the ignition, compression, water, oil pressure, rod knocking and fuel issues in some logical order. Old vehicles require a very deliberative approach to the loads of maintenance they require at age..... If this is the previously mentioned knocking motor with the cracked head......you are likely fighting a loosing battle with a well worn or very poorly rebuilt engine and may well consider the best use of limited resources is to seek professional help to rebuild the motor to new specifications or reengine the fleet with a known good engine. Given the likelihood of finding a local that can properly build an old mopar flat six with other than china parts, (no offence but given your multitude of queries, I can't recommend you rebuild it) a more modern driveline (even a low mileage used) may well fit a similar budget with greater reliability and durability than the ancient flat head and its primitive systems. A remanufactured leaning tower of power (if you are inclined for a 6) and late 70s OD 883 or even a torqueflight come to mind let alone a simple crate GM V8 and stick or auto.........

billowing white smoke is antifreeze being burned in the cylinders. Perhaps your head gasket is not installed/sealed correctly.

Your best option is total overhaul, cylinders, master, rubber lines and all steel lines. Its old. Its been open for who knows how long, it'll likely be rotten and substandard inside.

Best money we ever spent on the 37 was $100 to cut off the ancient design joints and install modern cross style spicers

Regs click. Some loude. But. Ya prolly need to adjust the new one to charge the 8v battery if ya didn't already. Setting the charge voltage should be covered in many of the older manuals and a googlevshould verify how high to set it for an 8v battery. 9 to 9.5 or so as I recall. 8v always made for better starts on mine.

That's what I almost posted earlier in the separated thread but refrained cause I figgered it'd be taken as inflammatory and reported!!!!! LMAO!!!!.

Anybody that sucks tissue into the cylinder dosnt know enough about engines to be working on them. Good gosh fellas, it ain't difficult to find tdc. Valve lifter position, dizzy rotor position, moving tissue paper, thumb over #1 hole, a light across the points, a meter across the points, remove plugs 2 thru 6 and feel where it gets hard to turn the crank, heck, shoving rope in the number one hole and compressing it will even get you a 50/50 chance of being right.....but simply, pick an indicator and turn the crank, that's all there is to it.

that's why I said to put tissue in the number one plug hole. It pops out when the #1 comes up on compression.

.032 plug gap till ya know what is by the book

Tissue in plug hole. It pops out on the compression stroke Front to back pistons are 1-6. Front to back they are wired 1 5 3 6 2 4 Ruff static timing to get ya running is 16 to 18 thousands point gap. Rotor points to no1 dizzy tower. Timing indicator from 4 before to 4 After. Start with 0 on the indicator which is tdc

Tom always calls me on Sunday's. We talked a bunch on the 3236 as i was tuning it in. 2 bbl carbs are not for folks that can't/don't have time to set em up. Once tuned they are amazing. But they are very different and amazingly adjustable. Especially the Webers. 3236 is my go to carb for any inline 6 I love them!!!

Don't know. Best to call tom if ya bought from him. Probably ly similar adjustment though

Any update? Sounds like you don't have a tune up manual. Given that you twisted the dizzy and changed the timing it may be best to tune from scratch. If you don't know the static timing perhaps proceed as follows (these cars will be timed 4 before to about 4 after TDC but TDC will get you running well with correct dwell....choose a points gap fo 16 to 18 thousands to get close to the right dwell.) Bring the engine to TDC (motor pointer pointing at the zero mark on the hub) on number one piston compression stroke and ensure dizzy rotor pointing at number one spark wire. Set point gap. If you set the widest range, it'll provide dwell at the bottom of the range and allow the dwell to increase to its max setting as the rubbing block wears in. If you don't know the points gap, 16 to 18 thousands will get you started and running. Start engine, warm up. Check dwell to ensure its in the right range, if you know what the dwell is supposed to be. If its not in range, shut down and readjust points gap....wide gap = small dwell, narrow gap = large dwell. Otherwise, with engine warm, remove vacuum advance tube from dizzy and plug the rubber hose leading back up to the carb. Check timing with a light. Set it somewhere between 4 Before TDC to 4 After TDC by loosing the clamp on the base of the dizzy and slowly turning the dizzy till the timing pointer points at the timing you want to achieve. 0 (TDC) to about 4 before TDC should run best. Tighten dizzy hold clamp at the base. Remove timing light. Reinstall vacuum advance hose to the advance pot on the dizzy. Go driving. Get a tune up manual and reset timing to the factory spec for the motor number and the dizzy number at a later date. But, 0 to 4 before should run well if the motor and other systems (vacuum advance, carb, coil, plugs, wires, condenser, points, vacuum leaks, etc.) are not turds.

Redline weber has a nice data sheet on adjusting the webers that reads mostly the same as above. It also give you a nifty sheet of paper to record your jet sizes and adjustments for future reference. Again....if its a weber, otherwise all this typing is wasted! http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm

All bets off if your motor is a turd (and many of them are, just worn out inside but still start and kina run, so)...but assuming a good motor and since you don't say what carb. Lets assume DGEV 32/26 progressive and some basic adjustments applicable to all Weber carbs. (Best carbs in the world. Once vetted, toss out 6v positive and generator for 12v negative internal regulated alternator and HEI dizzy for 1/2 rotation starts and fuel injection performance.) Notes: all this is from experience, running DGEV 32/36 on an inline 6. Webers are unlike your original carb. Tiny changes make huge results in performance. Vacuum leaks will kill performance and adjustability. You will adjust for Lean Best Idle. You will NOT be using the idle speed screw much....idle speed is mostly adjusted by the lean idle mix screw and jets. If you ignore the ranges of adjustment on idle mix and idle speed for any given jet size it will idle too fast and never run right. Get it right and your mileage and performace will go up noticeably. Get it wrong and it won't plus you'll feel the primary to seconday stumble on the progressive model 32/36. Your carb, if a 32/36 is likely jetted as follows and very close to right for the little flat head. Primary idle jet is 60. Secondary idle jet is 55. Primary and secondary main jets are 140 and 140. Don't mess with the emulsion tubes and emulsion jets unless you have a huge cam and are planning to only run at race speeds all the time. You have four ranges to adjust. Idle (primary barrel). Then Cruise (primary barrel). Transition (primary barrel and some secondary barrel.) Wide open (both barrels) This discussion is idle and cruise and generic to all weber carbs. Transition and wide open may be fine with the installed jets I mentioned and not need much more tweaking. Remove carb from engine. Screw primary idle jet in/closed. Back it out no more than two turns. (Its range of adjustment, no matter the primary idle jet size and with pure gas is 1.5 to 2.5 turns out. Not more than 3 turns out on alcohol gas. Anything other than 1.5 to 3 turns indicates your jet is too large or too small, change jets. 60 will be fine with the little flat head) Quit screwing with the idle speed screw. It ain't for anything but the finest final adjustment of speed. Ensure the throttle plate is closed. Back the screw all the way out. Turn it in til it just touches the arm on the throttle plate. Turn it in one more turn past first contact. Period. Its range of adjustment is from 0 to 1.5 or 1.75 turns in from first contact. If you ever have to turn this screw in more than 1 3/4 turns with alcohol gas, your throttle plate is open too wide and you are idling fast on the transition circuit not the idle circuit. Remember....keep the carb on the idle circuit when idling....i.e. throttle plates closed. Reinstall the carb, do not hook up the linkage. Make sure the throttle plates are closed, no interference. Install the linkage, make sure the throttle plates are closed. 99% of fast idle is either forkin with the idle speed screw when you shouldn't or the linkage is pulling the plates open too soon, moving you off idle circuit to transition circuit or you have a vacuum leak. Start the car. It should idle low and slow like a tractor. You'll have to stay with it till its warm and can idle low and slow on its own. The weber will idle your engine easily down to as little as 250ish RPM. Don't be tempted to fork with the idle speed screw....leave it the hell alone. Turn the primary idle mix screw in or out in 1/4 turns waiting 15 seconds to note a change in rpm and smoothness. Find the smoothest HIGHEST idle between 1.5 to 3 turns out, your final adjustment here it to turn the screw in about 1/8 turn (lean) for lean best idle. Check your idle speed on the tach. It should be higher. If its close now adjust the idle speed screw. Tiny turns in to increase the idle or out to decrease the idle to about 500 RPM with a manual transmission. Still smooth? Good. Go back to idle mix screw on the primary....adjust it in 1/4 turn increments to achieve highest/smoothest idle, then turn it in (lean) just 1/8 turn. You'll probably find that there is no significant change so put it back where it was ( remember the range for the primary jet of any size is 1.5 to 3 turns out (rich) from the bottom) just before you did the tiny tweek on the idle speed screw. Check dwell and adjust as needed. Check timing and adjust as needed. If you changed dwell and or timing, go back and tweak the carb once more. Check and fix all vacuum leaks. If you fix a leak, readjust the carb. (I put dwell, timing and vacuum leaks last since you seem to have the carb off the engine. So, figgered you should get it running. After fixing any of this on a running set up, you can go back and check/tweak the carb to lean best idle and idle speed upon completion of any corrective actions.) Button it up and go drive. It should be awesome on starts, idle (no lean idle miss), it should cruise with good power and very snappy response. Once this is done, you move on to tuning the transition and secondary as and if needed. If the car seems to bog or slump then roar when going into the secondary (secondary throttle on the 32/36 begins to open about 60% throttle) you probably need to: 1. Ensure your linkage not only lets the plates fully close at idle, but opens both full at WOT. 2. Possibly go larger on your secondary barrel main jet, 145 to 165 ought to be way big enough for the little flatty. Note: The little 55 jet at the bottom side of the secondary barrel is fine....leave it alone. Once the weber is right, install a large size (fuel injection filter before the bowl as it is sensitive to dirt.) If your fuel pump is putting out more than about 5 or so lbs, install a regulator and get it down to 3.5 or so lbs. After that....forget about the carb. It'll last and hold adjustment longer than you and your kids will have the car.