Jocko_51_B3B

After some more thought, I might dip some parts (like inner fenders) that are plain stampings but media blast the cab and any other parts that have pinch welds. http://www.dustlessblasting.com/index.html

Hi Keven, I want to use the correct size wheels on my '51 B3B which, from reading various posts, should be 16" x 4.5" with a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. (Please correct me if I'm wrong.) I have the correct front and rear drums and lug bolts. I found the following link to a company called "Performance Plus" that sells the correct wheels (I think), but these wheels sure aren't inexpensive. The PP wheels are also the wrong color for the B3B which I believe should be a cream color. Does anyone know of a cheaper source? Does $189 per wheel sound "in the ballpark"? Also, will 235/85r/16's fit on these wheels? http://www.performanceplustire.com/products/wheels/productID/16081/wheelDataID/200348 I'm new to truck restoration so I have to ask detailed questions before opening up the old wallet! Glenn L

I recently bought a one ton Delco stand from O'Reilly's. The only way I can hang my 218 on this stand seems to be to include the bell housing. But it seems like the whole assembly will be sticking pretty far out if I hang it that way. Is it normal to include the bell housing when hanging a 218 straight six? Is a one ton stand strong enough? I based my purchase on the fact that the engine weighs in at about 650 lbs (less than half the stand rating). Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

I picked up a spare motor both to tinker with and to try to get running (right now it's seized up from years of non-use). Anyway, I'm at the point of trying to remove the fan belt pulley and timing chain cover. Is there a ready made puller available that I can attach to a slide hammer to get the pulley and key to let go of the crankshaft? I already have the large nut removed. By the way, why does the large nut have such a strange shape?

I have a spare engine that I removed from a 1950 Dodge B3B. The engine code is T172 which, according to Don Bunn's book, is correct for a 1950 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup. But it has a Stromberg carburetor when I believe it should have a Carter. Did Dodge use Strombergs in some of its 1950 Dodge B3Bs or is this something done by a previous owner? Will a Stromberg work OK on this engine?

I have a spare engine that I removed from a 1950 Dodge B3B. The engine code is T172 which is correct for a 1950 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup. But it has a Stromberg carburetor when I believe it should have a Carter. Did Dodge use Stromberg AND Carter in its 1950 Dodge B3Bs or is this something done by a previous owner? Will a Stromberg work OK on this engine?

I'm restoring a '51 B3B and Keven just refurbished and re-chromed my speedometer, gauges, radio speaker cover, and blank plate. The workmanship was perfect and I couldn't be happier. Keven went above and beyond as far as I'm concerned. There is nothing better than dealing with a craftsman who combines knowledge with integrity. Would I use Keven's services again? You bet. Glenn

I'm planning on using a newer process called Dustless Blasting. You can Google it.

I have a 1951 Dodge B-3-B that I am in the process or restoring to original condition. The sheet metal is solid except for some holes on the floor in front of the passenger seat. The truck was repainted at some time in the past and I intend to strip off the old paint using a newer process called DUSTLESS BLASTING. Because it uses water, a small amount of rust inhibitor, and a crushed bottle glass media it isn't supposed to warp sheet metal (the water keeps it cool). Has anyone tried this method of paint removal? It looks like a pretty good system to me because it isn't supposed to be as rough as sand blasting and it doesn't make a mess like soda blasting. Here's a link to the Dustless Blasing web site: http://www.dustlessblasting.com/. Has anyone on the p15 d24 forum tried this? If so, what kind of results did you obtain?

I was planning to fly in from Illinois, but then I realized it's on Easter weekend so it's a no go. Too bad because it would have been my first. I'm restoring a 1951 B3B and it would have been nice to see what other owners have done. Maybe next year.

Here are a few exterior photos. Thanks to everyone for the leads on the floor pans and toe board. I ordered some of the parts this afternoon. My intention is to restore the truck to original condition as much as possible. As you can see from the photos, there are some parts that are not original. I've already removed a few of them.

I have a 1951 B-3-B which I purchased in Arizona. The body is almost rust free except for the passenger side floor which has some large holes in it. Also, the sheet metal pieces that fit behind the pedals going all the way across to the passenger side are missing. (These areas were all covered in plywood when I bought the truck). The piece that covers the transmission is missing too. Are these floor sections available anywhere or do plans exist for having them fabricated to original specs? Anyone know? Thanks in Advance for any advice about this.

Great! Thanks for all the interesting and informative comments and opinions. I bought the truck and I'll be transporting it home in a couple of weeks. The body is in great shape but it's missing a few parts: horn under the hood, horn ring on steering wheel, data plate (serial number on frame matches title though), rear license plate holder, and the small trim piece on the dash that runs from the speedometer to the speaker. Other than the missing parts, it runs (sort of) and there is very little rust. Maybe some day I will have an opportunity to drive a "three on the tree" too and be able to see for myself which I prefer. For now I will just be happy to dive in to a very interesting project. My intention is to do a full restoration and to be as original as possible. This might sound funny, but I would really like to have the body parts dipped and thereby make sure that all rust and old paint is 100% removed, but I haven't been able to locate a dipping outfit near Chicago.

I'm looking at a 1951 B-3-B pickup with the shifter on the floor. I've also seen this year Dodge 1/2 ton pickup with three on the tree. Does anyone know what difference this makes to the transmission itself? Why would one be preferred over the other? By the way, this truck does not have the "fluid drive" emblem under "Dodge" on the sides of the hood.