bob_amos

I have to agree with Norm about replacing those items. I would also replace the oil pump and water pump. I do a lot of engine work in my shop and a new oil pump is a requirement of any machine shop or engine rebuilder that I use. There is a reason why they want that done and I agree with their reasoning. Even though it is easy to replace, a failure would ruin all that work if not cought quickly. As to why the rest being replaced? Well, any part has its life expectancy and used parts in our vintage cars are already through much of it. Reusing the used moving parts would shorten the engines lifespan and if you replace with new now it may, and should, last the rest of your life. Reusing the crank, block and cam, if in good shape would be fine as these items can be reconditioned to like new condition and will last for many years to come.

Well, keep us informed and we will see if there is anything else we can do. If the guy is firm on wanting money and you have no documentation to prove that he has been paid in full, you have no choice but to work with him. Now, what about the salvage people that represented it as paid and really had no right to sell it to you? Interesting twist we have here.

Okay, Step one. Margie said to tell you that if you have the lein holders name, and you seem to. Give them a call and ask for a "lein satisfied". She says some will help you right over the phone. Some will require you to go to them with the bill of sale. They then can provide you that lein satisfied. Then, some won't do a thing for you. Give that a try first. Then if problems persists let us know and she will help you with the next step.

My 6 volt 53 Cranbrook has one of those FM converters that has been adapted to operate on 6 volts. MyXM radio actually operates on a reduced 12 volts down to 6 volts so a cigar lighter with no voltage drop works well. I just dial the AM radio to the converters frequancy then the converter to the XM frequancy and turn on the XM radio. Works well. I did the same on my 63 Belair without the reduction in voltage.

By the way guys. I have worked on Tony's El Camino a number of times and it is one nice machine. Tony only goes for the best on his cars so anyone that gets it will truely enjoy owning it.

Tony, Max, the upholstery guy, has a 50 that is set up for a small block Chevy. You can always have a look at his car to see how it was done. I can put you in touch with him. I'm sure he'd be happy to show you. By the way, what caused you to decide to make the change? Yu've never said a thing to me about it before.

I'll have Margie read this in the morning. Then she will check her books at the dealer to figure the best way to handle it. She will get back to you early next week. She works late at my shop on Monday doing our books but will probably have an answer on Tuesday evening, if not sooner, for you. Just hang on and she will get you through this. It'll take a little time but you should come out fine in the end. It is good that you have the lein company name.

Mkstr, I can get you the help you need. My wife, Margie, is a DMV clerk at a large dealersip. She's been doing it for over 20 years. If you want, she will be happy to look the procedure that you will need to follow to clear this up. She did ask if you were given a print out, by the DMV, on the people that you need to contact? Remember, that bill of sale that you received is just that. They receipted you for paying them and the title is a complete different thing. The DMV needs to be sure that they had a right to sell the car to you. Anyway, let me know if you want Margie to look up the procedure for you. Know this though, there will be some leg work that you must be doing to get that title. She can only tell you what is needed. The rest is up to you.

Yes, we all had a very good time. Tod did not blow his own horn but I'll do it for him. He also won an award with his car. And the trophies!!! David made some of the greatest trophies that I have ever seen at any meet. We all worked hard but it was worth it as everyone had a great time. Sorry the rest of you had to miss it... Maybe another time...

We are making our way north to the Santa Maria Show. This is the Plymouth Owners Club National event being hosted by the Golden State Region. (Our host here at this site is a long time and very active member that will be there as are many of the guys here.) Hope that any of you that can make it come on out and see the show. It will be held Saturday starting around 9 am. The location is the Historic Santa Maria Inn on Broadway in Santa Maria, Ca. If you can make it be sure to introduce yourself to the people running the show. We'd love meeting you. See you there!!!

One way the has worked for years is to place 2 hose clamps on the driveshaft next to one another and rotate them around the shaft until the vibration has reached its lowest point. Then do the same at the other end. If any still remains add a third clamp and play with positioning. While this is time consuming it does work and work well. Whan all is done a light coat of paint will hide the fix enouth to get you by with little embarrasement.

Too funny. I agree that some shops might as well use them At my shop I get so many cars in that seemed to have used this approach to automotive diagnostics. I should get a set and bring them out when the customer expects too rapid a diagnosis. LOL... Should either get a laugh out of them or get them to go away.. one or the other.

Love the patches. David Maxwell reproduced an old Plymouth Flag patch a few years ago. Real nice patch. You guys might want to see if he still has any left. They look great on the back of a shop coat.

Tod, You lucky dogs you!! You guys have started the fun of the Plymouth National and I am stuck here in Riverside working. Sure wish I could have taken more time to enjoy the event. Margie & I will see all of you in Santa Maria tomorow around 2pm. It is going to be loads of fun!!!!

Now that is an easy fix. Nice idea.

Here is a Scotty trailer for sale with some photos. The trailer isn't the focal point that I was interested in. Have a look at the 2 shots of its tow vehicle. The eBay number is 230125536798.

We do a lot of restoration work in my shop and Ficken is the shop we use. Fast turn around and they always work. Never had one that didn't. And best of all, the prices are real, and I do mean REAL, reasonable.

The Whitney unit will work if you have a 1 wire system. I installed one in my 1953 Cranbrook and it works great. What I did was cut eveything off of the original unit and removed the nut that held the original terminal post on. I then disassembled the Whitney unit and, after cutting it to the proper size, used the Whitney units screw, insolator and nut to attach it to the old mounting plate. (I also used a portion of the original insolator to make up for the difference where the original plate is indented at the top.)Works perfectly. Mine was 6 inches long so that is where mine was cut. Just place yours along side and you will see the total up and down movenemt needed. A real easy modification. Not just because I am a 40 plus year automotive professional, but because it really is easy.

I have spent a lot of time at this site as well as 2 other sites over the years. Haven't visited in a while though. I could use an "Old Fasioned" fix to revive my confidence in society. Think I'll go there right now. Yes, it is a great place to relive the way thing once were.

Hi guys, I just did this on my 53 Cranbrook. I used the base of the original unit. I ground off the old parts leaving me with the original round disk. I then, dissassembled the new JCWhitney unit and trandfered the parts to fit the old original disk. I then cut everything down to the proper size and placed the rheostat in the proper place to achieve the correct readings. Evenything worked perfectly.

I purchased front floor pans and the insert for my 54 wagon from R-Car. Not sure the address anymore but I see references to him on the web all the time. Try a search for him. Great quality, reasonable prices and he's a very helpful and friendly guy.

Thanks for the good words Norm. I agree with you guys on the non pro using tools that are not quite as expensive as the ones we use. But to tell you the truth, while I also have loads of Snap-On, Mac, Matco and Cornwell tools, I also have some Craftsman tools. Their sockets are thinner walled and do get into tight dash area that the others won't. Oh, I have sockets and such from the high priced guys too but always use the tool that does the job well and safely. At home I have some Harbor Freight tools as they are not put under the same stress as the ones at the shop. But, I also have the good stuff where it is called for. I just wanted to make a point on this puller. There is no need to purchase the Snap-On unit but don't buy the cheap one either. The damage and injury that can result from a low quality tool being asked to do more than it was designed to can be life ending. If it were me I'd go for that OTC puller as I know it will do the job well and safely at a reasonable price.

James, The cable and bracket assembly is listed as different pieces. It is in group 21 (for trans) section 50 (for overdrive) Subsection 52 (for controls). The first part is in 21-52-7 and is called the Knob, w/wire under part number 1499131... next..21-52-36 and is called housing under part number 1499068... next is 21-52-36 and is called support under part number 1373449.. last is 21-52-40 and is called grommet under part number 1498858.. The numbers 21-52-** are the locations in the parts manual and the names are misleading unless you understand how they talk in the parts department on the corperation. A knob and wire is the handle and the cable found inside the outer portion of the housing. The housing is the item that the cable wire goes into. The support is the bracket bolted to the dash and a grommet is self explanitory. It is funny how they lable things. For example. The rear 1/4 panel area in front of the rear window is called a sail panel. The real window is called the back light. The trunk is the deck lid. It is a different language at the dealerships. And it is different from company to company. While Chrysler calls a cigarette lighter a lighter or shell and element and knob. GM calls it a cigar lighter. Even today I find myself saying and writing these dealership terms on the repair orders and when I order parts. The dealers like that I speak their language but the regular parts houses are confused st times. Anyway, I hope these numbers help you.

Yes, The Snap-On one was expensive but I am a professional and make a living with my tools so it was worth the price to me. Even over 20 years ago when I got mine it was expensive. But it is the absolute best. But that one from OTC is every bit as good and not as expensive. And... much safer to boot.. Again, this is not a place to buy cheap. Buy a good tool as it is doing some heavy duty work here that could be dangerous if the tool isn't up to the job. The OTC tool defenately is and less expensive.

I worked for Chrysler for over 20 years and mine is an expensive, and the best,from Snap-On tools MANY years ago. It did get some real tough use over the years. I actually broke one of the ears on it and had it replaced under their lifetime warrantee. This is a very dangerous area to be working in. If you have the right, and strong enough, tool then there is nothing to be conserned with. But.... use a cheap tool and there is always the chance of injury to the car, another person or yourself. Do yourself a favour and buy a good one. That OTC one is a good one and is priced reasonably. I know professional mechanics that use that particular unit. OTC has been the official tool supplier for Chrysler for some time now. They kind of tool over from Miller tools and know what kind of use the tool will get. It should last you a lifetime.