bob_amos

Darin, Let me know when you are going to stop by the shop. I want to be sure and bring my camera along to get a few shots. How did the interior turn out?

Proof positive the the "Bay" can be addicting. David, Margie asks, "What does Lydia think about it?" Personally, I think it's cool but what in the world are you going to do with it?

My gawd Darin, That car looks WAYYYY better than it did when I saw it at my shop not all that long ago. Absolutely great job..... I am impressed.

Tim, You are correct about Craftsman tools. I actually like the feel of the Craftsman wrench in my hands better than my Snap-On wenches. The shaft is more comfortable on those hard pulls. The Snap-On's dig into my hands and is quite uncomfortable. Also, the sockets made by Craftsman are thinner walled. Yes, they do break easier but will fit in those tight places better. I actually use some Craftsman tools in my every day work at the shop. Some of my employees also found them more comfortable to use. And they never give you trouble on a return. Even if nothing looks broken. But they do have a no more than 5 tools at one visit return policy.

I too am a member over there. I rarely use it though. Had a question about a product the club sold me that was incomplete and they had said it would be completed for all of the purchasers in the future. Every time I, or someone else, brought the subject up they would delete it. Not too impressed where a legitmate question is censored. Others have complained about the same question being deleted too. Besides, there really isn't near the traffic that we have here. GT has put together the best forum on the net, bar none as far as I can see.

Norm, Love the phaeton. Do you recall the one we were restoring in the shop? Well, it will finally be on its way soon. The guy is actually selling it instead of keeping it. And after all that money he spent on it...

Tim, Realy? You had trouble with Snap-On replacing a tool? Sorry to hear that. Ya know. Some of the dealers can be real think headed. I have had the same trouble with the Mac Tool guy that visits my shop. Our Cornwall tool guy never comes in.. But Cornwall has always been like that. They have such bad luck with their guys.

I have this unit in my 53. Got the tip from one of the guys here. It works perectly in my car.

That was true on some points. But, drill bits and easy outs were really not suppose to be warranteed. Some dealer chose to replace them as a good will thing. I had a set of expensive drill bits and easy outs. When they broke I always got them replaced. Then the dealer left and a new guy took over. He would not replace them. My present dealer now will. So that is a dealer to dealer thing. The wrenches and heavy equipment I have never had a problem with. On my wheel puller, the ears on the part that you pound on have broken twice over the years and have been replaced with absolutely no trouble. Even once by the same guy that would not replace the bits and easy outs. I do know from 20 years at Chrysler Dealerships that the Miller Tools puller was not up to the beating the Snap-On tool was. In most dealerships that had this tool either the dealer had the Snap-On or the mechanic that did the work had one. That is why I had mine. And still do. When I use this one I know that I am not going to have to be conserned with the tool causing harm to myself. I have seen the factory, Miller Tools as well as the cheaper after market tool, fly apart and just choose not to be in that position of dodging the tools as they take flight.

The puller Bob is refering to is a Snap-On tools item. The very best you can buy. I worked for Chrysler for 20 years and this Snap-On tool beat the factory tool. I have owned the same one since the late 60's. Being a Snap-On tool it carries a lifetime, and I do mean lifetime, guarantee. By the way, Blue Point is a Snap-On tool name. The present bid of $60 is way too low for this tool.

Greg, Step up and pull the manifold. Yu will NEVER be happy with a "Mickey Mouse" job. It'll haunt you and you will never be happy with it. Winter's coming and you will need something to do on those cold days...

It's the ruber products that they are using. Had this happen with the shifter boot on my Sunbeam Alpine a few years ago. Everything is now made to a price and not to a quality. It's getting real tough finding ANYTHING that is up to snuff these days.

What part numbers were the two part CV boots? I have always thought that this was a good choice but never could figure out which parts would work best. I purchased a set from Robert's Motor Parts and they disolved in about 10 months. The receipt was long gone and Robert's said they would replace them but would not look up my purchase. I was upset by their side stepping this and using this as an out to covering their product warranty. I look up customers receipts all the time in my shop. I figure that they deserve the best and want to deliver that to them. Robert's obviously does not. As a result, I won't purchase any parts for customers from them. I might buy for my own use but do not wish to gamble a customers money. So, that said, this CV joint boot seems the best option.

A light application should not cause any trouble. There is pleanty of surface for the plug to find a good ground.

Fred, Looks like wiring is not intimidating you in any way. Glad to see that. Electrical systems are my personal specialty. I actually make my living working on electrical systems and find it pretty easy work. While I am happy that most people are affraid of all that coloured spagetti (sp) I have always wondered why a person can do an engine or transmission rebuild and not be able, or willing, to handle the electrical system. I have done all of these and find electrical systems to actually be easier to work with. It's either right or wrong. Not much bothering with clearances and preloads and torque specs.Not that these are all that difficult, but they are tougher to deal with than an electron moving through a wire. So, it's good to see you tackling that electrical system. Good luck to you.

For the board to use as door panels try looking in your Yallow Pages under automotive fabric shops. They sell fabrics as well as a heavy cardboard that is almost exactly the same as originally used. It is easy to work with too. If they do not carry it, and some places don't, just ask if they can refer you to a supplier. I purchase my headliners from Acme in Long Beach, Ca. We are an Acme approved seller and I have even sold some headliners to the upholstry/trim shop in our complex. They sell great products and there is a guy out in the shop area that has a head full of answers on the original types of interior parts. I needed a headliner for my '53 Cranbrook. The adviser for the Plymouth Owners Club said that taupe or gray was original. This guy said that a light green was used in my car, Catus Green outside, and he had some of that in the wearhouse. They made up the headliner and it was a perfect match. I actually found an old piece of headliner under the rear seat.

Well, I hope that you have as much fun as we did at the National in May. California was great at that time of year.

Congrats on reaching that half way mark. Hell, I don't even remember it... My wife, Margie, will beat you there by 3 days. She reaches it on the 6th. Not sure how she will take it but you seem to be handling with class. HAPPY B-DAY!!!

I own an auto electrical and A/C shop. We have had great service from Gene at YnZ wiring. They are in Southern California. www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com. (909)798-1498. His work is absolutely perfect. He can also modify any harness for future additions or change for something that you may want now. Prices are reasonable and Gene is a real nice guy to do business with.

I own an auto elecrtical and A/C shop in Riverside, Ca. The other day we ordered a group 24F battery. Generally one of the most used in the past, anit cost ME over $51 for it. When you add in my profit it was rediculous. But EVERYTHING is going up. Hell, eggs were recently $1.29 a dozen. This afternoon, $3.45 a dozen. And our great leaders say the economy is fine and there is NO inflation, after removing energy from the equasion. Guess, a battery as well as eggs must be energy items....

Gee, Bob, Please accept our heart felt sorrow on your loss. I can only imagine how you must feel. I know that I would be TOTALLY lost if my wife were to leave me. And we've only been married 21 years. 41 is a lifetime... always remember, you have friends here for you. Bob & Margie Amos

Like I said, some guys have had good service from them. I just know that not a single one that I have installed has been any good. I would like to hear more on that Alison/Crane unit though.

We have had good service from one cooling system sealer over the years. (40 plus years for me. It's been around longer than that.) That product is sold as Jone's Motor Purr colling system sealer. It is sold in a bottle and guarantees that the leak will stop before the car leaves the drive or your money back. At least that is the sales talk we use to give customers in the 60's. I still use it on occasion today. I always recommend repairing the needed part but when time or money is an issue, this stuff has worked well for me. Give it a try, it is only abot $6 or $7 dollars a bottle. Best of all, it is made from metalic particles and not organic so it won't plug things up on you.

Well, the company may have been around for years and do sell a lot of these items. And some guys have good service with them. As for me, a professional that has installed a large number of them, I have had to replace "EVERY SINGLE ONE" that I have installed over the years. Including the one that came with my '63 Belair 6 cylinder when purchased. The ones on my customers' cars were a very costly experience for me and my shop. Because of that, I have discontinued installations of the unit. If a customer brings one in and they are supplying the part, I will install it. But only after sharing my experiences. This way, I no longer have to guarantee the part. Only that it was installed properly. It has been a number of years since I have installed any of these and I hope that I never do another. It's always a bad feeling when a vehicle comes into the shop on the hook because of something I dd to their vehicle.

Norm, To get just the stop lamp to operate you will need to pick up the feed directly from the stop lamp switch. Since you have turn signals you have to remember that the stop lamps double as turn signal lamps. So, to avoid the turn signals from activating the lamp you will need to pick it up at the switch and add one more wire to the mix at the trailer hook up. Pretty easy to do...