pyrodork

I've had a 48 Dodge sedan for several months now. I was changing the thermostat and ended up snapping a bolt and cracked the head trying to get it out. Having a spare head on hand, I had it resurfaced and ended up getting about .30 removed. Install went good, starts and runs great... until I put it into gear. It goes into reverse and moves good, but going forward it barely moves... all while white smoke pours out the exhaust. It does move, but not very much and at high RPMs. Put back in neutral, the smoke clears and it idles and revs fine without smoke. I put each wheel up one at a time and they all spin, so I don't think a brake is sticking (I rebuilt the cylinders and put new rubber hoses on about 2 months ago). Parking brake isn't stuck. Started the thermostat change maybe 5 weeks ago. Head was off for less than a week. Car was driving beforehand. I had been doing a few things at once, water pump and timing/points at the same time as doing the thermostat. Transmission recently drained and filled with new fluid. Fluid Drive fluid level was good. Clutch never been an issue in my ownership. Haven't dug into the clutch or transmission yet since installing the new head, but the car does move and stop... just not very well in forward gears. Only smokes when trying to drive. Just wanted to ask the experienced before tearing things apart for no reason. Any helpful feedback appreciated!

Is it safe to assume a stock 218 head has a better CR than a stock 230 head? While working on my 230, I noticed a crack. I have a bad 218 with a good head. Figured I could swap them, but wanted to get advice before putting in the time.

Met a neighbor today that's a car nut. Started up the car and they were certain it's a rod bearing. Was working on my 48 changing the thermostat at the time. Snapped a bolt, but I figured there's almost an inch I can get a vise on. Heated it up, worked it back and forth... snapped flush with the head. Ugh. Got the drill out and started small. About the third bit in, the bit snapped below flush. Got the picks out, but it was too far down. Drilled a bit more (what I could) and started welding on a nut. Second time didn't work, now I have to close up for the day. Someone is really testing me today!

Firing order (as I started with): 153624. I looked in the book to find out what I changed it to that didn't work, but all I'm finding is the order that I had before. Maybe all the stress caused some temporary dyslexia? I'll try pulling the wires one by one the next time I get to it. If the noise is a rod bearing, that would only reduce the volume when that associated wire is pulled, correct? Because the crank would still be moving the rod, but no explosion in the cylinder to magnify the force against the piston?

Update: I'm a busy guy anyway, but with a wedding coming up, time is such a privilege! I checked the firing order and it's the same as when I had the 218 installed. I tried a different order that I found in a book from another year, but I couldn't get it to start with that. I'll post what firing order I'm using the next time I have the chance. I tried to set the timing correctly before checking the firing order. After it runs for awhile and I shut it off, I can't get it to start again. After thinking about it, it's plausible that the engine had that noise before installing it and I was too distracted by the exhaust and the "not-as-sealed-as-I-thought" oil pressure line to notice. Perfect example of why I need friends! I love this car. I've had it in storage for 5 years with a blown engine (while being homeless) while trying to figure out what I should do to fix it (but I did sell my Studebaker to pay rent!). I don't see ever selling it. My dad custom painted the dash, so I have a bit of sentiment attached. That is, aside from my 1937 Plymouth collectibles as well. Point being, I'm in it for the long and winding road. I also want to learn so I can apply the knowledge to future vehicle acquisitions and generations of youth glued to digital screens. The 360 was part of my long term plan, anyway; as a winter project, since I never had the original matching engine to start with. I still plan to source this noise, but I'll be getting the 360 ready for a relatively smooth transition (as one can only hope) when the right time comes. Gotta say though, I love the sounds and smells of a good-running mopar flathead! I'm keeping it in my 1948.

Friend saw the video and thinks it's a rod bearing. Then I saw this video... Not sure if everyone can see it because it's a Facebook link. It's of a guy with his oil pan off, moving the rod back and forth. Hope it's not that! I already did that gasket! Not to mention, the pain in the butt it would be. I bought Butch's crossmember kit for my 360. I wanted to upgrade anyway, but was hoping to get some road time first. https://www.facebook.com/groups/413512055514755/permalink/518721051660521/

It's weird, though, because before I put the clutch, bell, and trans on, it didn't make a noise even resembling this.

Videos in order... Videos 3 and 4 were from today. Video 4 is after I turned down the idle speed. Video 1: Video 2: Video 3: Video 4: I was having issues uploading video 2, so let me know if that's not working.

54 dodge 230 engine (as I'm told), everything else from the unoriginal 218 that I pulled from the car; serial number shaved. Took off the lower flywheel cover, but that looks good while running. Adjusted the idle and that helped a bit. Now I think my timing is off. I took some more video today. Let me throw them on YouTube and post links.

I'll admit that I'm not experienced in tuning engines (yet). I started this 230 engine out of the car a few months ago with no major issues. I then installed the clutch and transmission from my old 218, then put in the car. Couldn't get it started. Discovered no spark in distributor. Removed distributor and installed new wire. Tried cranking with plug on coil and got spark. Realized I should have put the distributor back in before cranking. Put distributor back in. Few days later, the engine started, but a knock/tapping sound that wasn't there before. Opening the choke caused the noise to get louder and more defined. Hard to find even the area the noise is coming from. If I kept the choke almost entirely closed, I didn't get the noise... or not nearly as much. Another couple days later, started her up again to try to find the source of the noise. Felt around the block and components with my hand to feel for extra vibrations. Too hard to tell. Put the car in gear and it sounds horrible. Car moves in both directions but has grinding noise. Felt the bottom of the clutch/flywheel cover from under the car and I think that's it. After shutting the car off, I noticed that the oil drain plug is almost rubbing against the tie rod. Maybe? I'm thinking that the clutch is likely suspect because the sound wasn't there before I installed it. I had a heck of a time changing it over from the column shift transmission with having to grind down the bellhousing so the flywheel wouldn't hit. I have a video of the noise, but it's hard to tell where it's coming from because, well, it's a video. I don't think timing has anything to do with it, but because I cranked it without the distributor, I'm not certain. Point gap is set right. No backfiring. Seems it would run fine if the noise were fixed. Be gentle, guys. I'm only trying to learn! Not having much luck finding local guys that have time to spare. I wanted this car at my wedding, but I don't think that with the available time, I'll have it ready in 2 weeks. Time to pull out the 48 instead!

I've asked this before, but can't remember where. How/where is the speaker box for the radio installed on the 37? I think it's over the steering column. But where do the 3 hooks attach? If someone can post some pictures of their stock radio and how it's installed, that would be great! Thanks!

My 48 Dodge has the cowl vent and "weather door." Haven't found a replacement gasket for the weather door yet but fresh cowl gasket is in. I'm still getting leaks by the kick panels, but don't see where they're coming from. I suspect the windshield gasket, but would appreciate other input. Also can't seem to get the cowl vent to open very far. Linkage looks extended as far as it can, but makes no difference. The vent on my 37 opens twice as far. Never did get the vent removed for the gasket replacement, but I have 3 screws that won't budge and one I can't get back in!

How do you have the hoses routed without a 2-way valve?

Is the clock fuse called 1AG2? I tried finding some shorter fuses but they're still too long. If I had a part number, I'm that much more ahead.

I'm used to search functions being half assed on forums... Google usually works better. But it's nice to know that the information exists! I just got the repair manual, owners manual, and a Thompson repair and tune up manual. Of course I also have the 37 Plymouth manual and the 36-42 Plymouth manual, but that's a whole other story...

Forgot to add that the oil pressure gauge was shaky sometimes. Isn't there a spring on the side of the block that determines pressure? Maybe that needs clearing? Considering getting a new thermostat because of the dirty coolant and the fact that I'd rather see the gauge closer to 180. I understand the problems with de-rusting a cooling system, but if I were to just flush it with the hose, would that be safe? What about those water wetter products? I hear that people love em or hate em. I wasn't happy with the fitment of the radiator cap, so I switched it with one from a 51 Dodge truck radiator after my test drive. Both radiators seem to like the fitment of their new caps better than the old ones. Apart from a proper rebuild, do those "mechanic in a can" engine restorers work well for these motors in the meanwhile? Going for a new fuel pump. They're cheap! Oh... Is there an ideal radial tire size? I need new tires anyway. Was thinking about some 195s. Smaller=better handling? Thanks again! I went from being pissy to pleased in a matter of minutes today thanks to all of your help!

Thanks, Don. I tend to steer clear from the VA whenever possible. Maybe that's why I went to medical school! Haha! Thank you for your sacrifice, as well. She runs! I studied the starting instructions in the manual and read some stuff online about the auto choke last night. Slow and steady wins the race! Messed with it a little bit this morning and then noticed the belt had well over an inch of play and was pretty cracked up. Replaced it with a lightly used one I already had and brought the generator to hand-tension. Took a little bit, but she went! Let it idle for several minutes before taking it out for a quick run around the neighborhood. Engine died when I turned around in a parking lot, but started right up again. Differences noticed this time from last week when I bought it: - amp gauge at 35, first time was about 15-20 (new battery has 200 more CCA) - oil pressure almost in the red at idle, not while driving (but low enough to concern me), first time it topped out at about 40, but had low oil and no dipstick. Oil needs to be changed and new pan gasket, that I know of. Hence why I started washing the bay in the first place. I put in a dipstick from a blown 218 and it currently reads full. - temp gauge around 200 when I came back from the 1-mile jaunt, first time was between 160 and 180. I had replaced the heater hoses and added coolant to account for what was dumped. Coolant is dirty. Freeze plug by oil dipstick has small, but noticeable dribble. - fuel pump spritzing gas out the top. Didn't pay attention the first time, but that's likely the reason I saw the pump wet before. Reading, I learned there is a vent in the pump... but I don't think it should be shooting gas out and dripping. This changes my original concern for the pump gasket. Is a new pump in order? Additionally, where does the heater temp cable connect? SAE 90 in the transmission (I heard to use SAE 10, but maybe that was for the fluid drive component)? Brakes are extremely slow response. I imagine there's air and dirty fluid in there. Looks like I may have a leaky cylinder in the rear. And I got the radio working! Woo! Still need the hand brake cable freed up. I have chocks in the meanwhile. Looking for a drivers door window (4-door). eBay screwed me out of snipe-bidding on one. Thanks, guys!

Everything in my life post-military regarding short-term memory is shot. I'm not always as sharp as I used to be. Thanks Uncle Sam! I would have thought this forum would be less critical of those humbling themselves by asking questions trying to learn something. -end drama club- No hard feelings. I appreciate learning anything I can! I'm a self-proclaimed "I-don't-know-it-all." Which plugs should I install? I pulled Champion J11's out and replaced them with J11C's yesterday. Like I said, the car was running prior to rinsing the engine bay. Nothing adjusted. I'm sure many people could benefit from a chart of original products versus their modern equivalents! And my immensely offensive signature is now gone.

WOT? I'm not familiar with acronyms that aren't army related! No fires yet today. Time for the almighty employer. I changed out the cap and rotor for an extra one I have, no change. Saw a post about dumping 1/3 aerosol can cap full of gas down carb, so I tried that. Nothing. Tried jumping with a 12v battery, nothing. Decided to move on to the noisy speedo and got that re-lubed. Still need to figure out how to get the hand brake cable out. Stuck like glue. Currently have another 6v battery charging. Hasn't seen a lot of use in the past few years, but still powers up my Model A.

Getting good spark at all six. I wonder if the wet carb is from fuel getting stopped up in there. Maybe I got the vacuum advance? I only got one quick fire tonight... The first try. Got the owners manual in the mail today. Service manual should be here soon. Owners manual says to hold the throttle part way when starting. If flooded, press the throttle to the floor. Seems odd. So pumping the throttle a couple times is wrong?

Since drying the distributor and adding new plugs, it has fired, just not stayed running. Since it started and ran well before, all is not lost. Check for spark at each plug, I guess? I'm just concerned with the wet carb. I don't have much time until next week to work on it, so if I can air some stuff out or order some gaskets while I wait, I might as well.

Bought a running, driving 48 Dodge 4 door the other day. Drove it 140 miles home. Engine bay appears to be original: wiring, etc. Rinsed out the bay with a hose as a precursor to degreasing the bottom end and now I can't get it started. Granted, I've only started/driven it on the day I bought it. I blew out the extra water with an air hose soon after washing. Figuring there was water set up somewhere, I blew out the distributor and cap, and the plug wires to the best of my ability. No go. But I flooded the engine and fuel was dripping from the carb and fuel pump. Waited hours, still nothing. Killed battery. Charged, and flooded again. Left distributor cap off overnight. Today, after another no start, I pulled the plugs and added some marvel before work. The two closest to the firewall were wet with fuel. Plugs looked good otherwise. Bought new plugs after work, still no start... but I got a quick fire a few times. Killed the battery. Jumped the battery, some more quick fires, but nothing lasting. Pulled fuel bowl and cleaned. Filled with fresh gas, reinstalled. The order may be off, but you get the idea. After pulling the oil bath, I noticed the outside of the Stromberg carb appeared to be soaked in fuel. I removed the line and needle, seemed fine, not stuck (but needle not against the bowl). Removed the top cover, looks fine. Pump squirts a spritz. Added more fuel to the bowl, but I admit I don't know what I'm looking for. Did I fudge up a fuel gasket, you think? I mean, with the outside of the carb so... wet? Maybe I need to adjust the float? Too much crud underneath to tell if the fuel pump gasket is sealing perfectly, but the bowl did fill up the rest of the way after cleaning and reinstalling it. And $50 for a carb rebuild kit seems excessive, but reluctantly acceptable. Battery is charging now. Anything else I should check? I think once it goes, it'll be fine. Seller didn't have this much trouble starting it before.

On the subject of horn wiring, I recently bought a 48 Dodge with the horn button removed and the horn was wired to a remote button (works). I think I have all the internals (a Y bracket, spring, and button contact, no wire) and bought a new button on eBay. Want to know how to put it together and have it wired properly. Also found a cut wire coming off of (I think it is) the horn relay... Bottom terminal, radiator side. Is this the connection for the wire through the column?

Cool. Got it in! Smooth side toward the passengers (the sealing side). It took me several hours to get the darn thing fully seated! Now I'm having issues installing it back in the car. It's a new (to me) frame, and obviously new rubber. Had to completely remove the hinges in order to even get the frame to sit right without rubbing the crank mech on the cowl. What's the recommended way to reinstall the frame? Two repair books say opposite things. The way it looks now, the top hinges can't be installed because the curved bracket that is attached to the windshield frame (it won't come out) is rubbing on the opening. Someone who knows better should really make a video for YouTube!

The side profile in your first photo... The new rubber has that same lip in the middle on the one side. That side points toward the front of the car, right? (The left side on attached photo) Nice photos! I wish the screws on my frame would come out! Too much trouble with good glass already installed.