pyrodork

Sorry, I figured my description of the alleged U-channel may have been confusing. I'm referring to the seal above the dash and up the sides of the body surrounding the windshield; not the actual piece that holds the glass. I found Steele has it (part number 70-1276-52), but for $170! That price seems, well, insane. Remove the 1 and I'd still question it. I asked Andy Bernbaum and they haven't made it yet, but they will in the future. For the seal around the glass piece, is it slid into the channel with the curve pointing outward or inward?

I have a 1937 Plymouth and I need to replace the rubber seal on the crankout windshield. I don't have the rubber yet, but I want to get a head start on learning how to do it. Also wondering if there is a rubber seal on the inside seating surface of the windshield frame as well as around the frame/glass itself. I can't seem to locate anything. It seems that there should be something there like a U channel. While on the subject of glass, how do you replace the side glass seals? Is it just the U channel and sweeper involved? What is the proper way to mount the glass frame rollers to the regulator track? Anybody come up with hardware-store supplies to replace the U channel at a fraction of the cost?

according to my google-ing of the casting numbers on both of them, they're NB435. i don't have any photos to verify the numbers offhand. i rent my garage, so i can't just run out and look... but that makes me realize that i should have photos of them! why wouldn't it be suitable for cars? what trannys would be good, and what vehicles are they found on? what vehicles have this? is this something i could add after i get it driveable? ...from a financial standpoint? what years? would the challenger rear end that i already have be sufficient? what about harvesting a front end from a junkyard? i think i'm fairly settled on the 360... unless a super super cheap and decent 23-incher comes along. i could get the 25"... but it sounds like it would be almost as much hassle with that as it would be with the 360. plus, with the 360, i wouldn't be so concerned about spending a ton of money on speed parts for the flathead to gain just a few horses.

that's why i still have it! i'm also saving a dented/rusted fender (once i get the darn thing off) to remind me of how awful the combination of pink primer and black paint looked when i bought the car.

i looked at that last night. since this 360 already has the motor mounts with it, i think it would be more of a matter of welding those in and not spending $200 for what looks (essentially) like just new motor mounts and instructions. the ad doesn't really say what all is included for $200. my current engine threw a rod (see photo) and gashed up one of the cylinders real good. one piston shattered and one has a bunch of nicks in the top. i think the rod may have damaged the block a bit when it was thrown, too. the engine is one of those rebuilt ones with the serial number shaved off, but it's got a tag that says 218. i figured since i want more power anyway, and to drive long distances on the freeway, the 360 might be my best route... but a drop-in would get me on the road quicker. i'm guessing to fix the block would at least run me about $1000... and i'd rather not do that. plus, i'd have to throw new parts in it... then pay someone to make sure it's installed right. if i did use the 360 and drove it like i should drive a stock engine, i could get away with the current front suspension and radiator for awhile, right? after seeing bob's slant 6 mod on the link he provided, i think it would work until i could get a new front end. are there any detailed pictures/videos of a 318/360 conversion? i haven't checked with the HAMBurgers yet. i think one of the local custom car clubs (frankensteiners) would be willing to give me a hand, too, once i develop a bigger rapport with them. and, like i said, the guy who sold me the car said he would help me install it. oh, and i would like to keep a standard transmission in the car. would the NB435 be a good choice (since i already have two of them)? should i look into a different rear end?

i've got a '37 plymouth sedan with a stock (but non-original) 23" flathead that i ruined a couple years ago. i've had a constant struggle since then deciding what i should do for a replacement. option 1) the guy who sold me the car has a small block 360 from a late 60's dodge truck that he was going to put in it. he says it has j-heads, but i don't know how to externally tell the difference. it needs the typical tuneup parts, as well as an alternator, fuel pump, headers/manifolds, crank pulley, and a carb (comes with a 2bbl and a 4bbl offy intake, and i already have a 4bbl carb that needs rebuilding). the motor does turn and he's got the original motor mounts. he wants $300; but is willing to let me work it off. he has already given me the original-mating 4spd NB435 tranny, an additional NB435 tranny, and a '73 challenger rear end (7:28? it's tagged 2.76) free of charge. the rear end does need all the brake components. he says he chose that particular setup because it wouldn't take much modification to make it work; i.e. still use the stock front end, radiator, driveshaft, little to no steering box issues. he has even offered to help me put it in out of the goodness of his heart. in my research in this forum over the past several hours, i've seen a few mentions of 318s and a couple folks who actually did it. one post has jonnyz72 who says the original front end, rear end, and radiator were still used with his 318 for daily driver use. if i went the 360 route, i would eventually want to put discs in the front. i'm still unclear if the radiator would be sufficient. i know a 12v conversion would be necessary, but i'm not worried about that. pictures or videos of the work of this conversion would be great. option 2) i've recently found a '46 fargo dodge truck engine (25"). this engine also turns and appears in decent shape. there has been confusion whether it's a 238 or a 218... i'm inclined towards a 218 because i've never heard of a 238. the owner is willing to work out a trade with me for some stuff i don't need anymore. there is a bellhousing, but no transmission. i've heard that all one would need to do is move the mounts on the top of the radiator to push it forward. in a mock radiator setup, this appears to give me the clearance i need for the fan, but also blocks access to the filler cap. i see don coatney has done the conversion quite nicely, but he has a later plymouth that's not so narrow in the nose. whether or not i go with this option, i would also love to see pictures or videos of how people make this mod work. option 3) i also found a rusty/stuck engine/trans from a '39-'40 dodge truck... more or less for best offer. i'm not sure what size the block is, but even though it's cheap, i don't have money to throw into a heavy piece of scrap. i already have one in my plymouth. actually coming up with a free-turning 23" 218 or 230 that's within my financial means is proving near impossible. this said, i don't have money or space to work on this project at the moment; but warmer weather and fulltime employment would greatly help me out. at this point, i'm just trying to figure out what i can do. if i can come up with a plan and score one of these engines for little or no cash, i would feel a lot more comfortable about where i'm going with this project. i was hardly able to work in the garage at all last summer, so i've got garage fever pretty bad! oh, i suppose i should mention that my goal is to get my car to be a daily driver... if i want it to be. kinda rat roddy, kinda street roddy. i want to go to shows, cruise long distances... just enjoy driving it. and yes, i'd like to be able to go fast if i wanted to, too. i think the 360 would be my preferred route, but if i could get more of a "drop-in" engine, i could drive it while working on the 360. if i'm going to be spending practically just as much time and money with one as i would the other, i'll do the 360. i also have no experience swapping engines, so if 360 guy is willing to help me, i've got that going for me too. i plan on going to the junkyard for most of the parts i need.

don, i'm looking at a 25" dodge truck engine for my 37 plymouth sedan. i know the radiator needs to be moved forward, but is there anything else? do you have any photos of how you adapted your car to fit the engine? if i move my radiator forward, the filler cap is inaccessible. would a later model radiator fit the space better and still give sufficient cooling?