atlbluz

I can't answer that, but I figured if they made Plymouths they probably make Dodges also. Try Paul Taylor 805-489-7822 or email pwjitaylor@msn.com he says he has most mopar patterns prices listed at around 100.00. Greg

You can try the Plymouth owners club I believe there are glove boxes offered there.

My P-6 had stainless ashtrays in the back seat, probably because the dash was not wood grained from the factory. I would guess if your dash and all window garnished are wood grained so would be the ashtrays. I have attached 2 pictures of what I have seen for sale on ebay.

My P-6 background is red. Greg

man you must have long legs. I could never sit back that far.

I NEVER commit that my P-6 will ever be anywhere at any time, just too many things to go wrong. I drove this bad boy everyday in High School and it never let me down, but 50 years after the rebuild and I can't say that. I am working really hard to get my confidence back in it. A lot of things I have done in the past 5 years have made it better, so I think I am getting closer! Have tool box will travel!

I had the fuel pump problem years ago when I had NAPA rebuild my old pump. They used a hardened shaft naturally for the pivot pin, but you can't swage it. It fell out. So I have gotten another pump and now I have made a cradle that holds the pin from each side and stays in place. That solved that problem.

Yes, I think this is it. #1 says to go to full compression of the spring and then back off to nearest lock wire holes. I think that is what I have been searching for. So simple but so hard to find. Thank you for taking the time to find that and making the pictures. I will put it to good use this weekend. Greg

Are you trying to slalom that '39?

Jerry I need to adjust the drag link where it attaches to the steering link from the steering box, not the length of the link. I think the spring that applies pressure to the ball on the end of the steering shaft is loose. That is where I am guessing that it is a adjust tight and then back off to the next hole.

hey Jerry what is on the other side of the page? that looks interesting also. Thanks. This is the most I have found so far. Google did nothing for me nor did youtube.

OK so I bought a rebuild kit for the drag link for my P-6 2 door sedan. No instructions! None in any of my service manuals either. Is there a specific torque to tighten the adjusting screw or is this just a feel adjustment? Any info would be helpful. BTW this is the drag link with only 1 small spring. Greg

Still working on it. Got side tracked. I hope to get back to it this weekend.

I took a piece of shrink tubing long enough to go from the steering wheel contact to out of the end of the column, to prevent the old fabric wire from grounding out. Worked great! Greg

I would get online and go to www.Autogeek.com in Florida. Their finish guy has a 50 page paint restoration paper on the products(which they sell) and technique for restoring a finish. I have a 1938 Plymouth that I had restored in the 60's and the paint was pretty sorry after years in storage. In his paper he recommends Maguire's #7 which was created in the early 1900's for paint restoration. I used this product the way he describes and managed to get the finish looking much better and no machine buffing. So it's a waterless cleaner first with their cloth towels to remove the dirt, then the Maquire's. It will make the rag look like the color of the paint but it is not an abrasive. This is not rubbing compound, it is emulsifiers and oils that restore the paint. I think I spent about 100.00 on all the products he described and a lot of elbow grease and got a good shine back on the finish. I would not use a buffer unless you are really good at it. Also the method of buffing has changed now to very slow speed buffers, not the old style buffer/grinders. Good luck. Greg

Well I have a image of the Mopar shock compressed length. Now how do I get it here for you all to see? I have it in the images section. Greg

Maybe check with someone who has a car they are parting out. Usually the coil is not any good and might send you the screw in attachment.

OK I will check that, but I also had the fronts balanced on the car and with them 'in balance' I still couldn't get above 35 MPH. So I thought out of round, Coker said to put them on the Hunter 9700 road force balancer. Still 35 MPH max. The tire store front end guys looked at the play in the front end and thought all was within spec. So this weekend I am going to jack up the front end and put my dial indicator to good use and see if or how much the tire is out of round.

PA I am going to check for the tires and wheels this weekend. But when the front tires and wheels were on the balance machine they did not seem to have an appreciable wobble and the Hunter 9700 did not indicate the wheels were out of round. I did not sling a wheel weight because they still vibrated immediately after leaving the tire store.

No the steering wheel does not Jerk. it's more like when a tire is out of balance. It is road speed related not engine speed. I di not pick up much of this vibration in my butt, so I have always been told that a rear end vibration or the like comes thru the seat. As I approach about 40 MPH the rear view mirror is vibrating so badly that you can't see out of it and the side mirrors are about the same. I hope that helps.

Robert the 1/4 inch is at the tire, not the link, but is the link adjustable?

Don, most of the vibration is coming thru the steering wheel, do you still think it might be motor mounts?

I am trying to get rid of a terrible shake, shimmy, vibration whatever. I have purchased a new set of tires from that TN tire dealer and that has not helped my shimmy-shimmy shake at 35 MPH. The old tires were 35 years old and sat for a long time, so I figured that was the problem. We have balanced the tires off the car, on the car, with new road force equipment, still cannot get over 35 MPH. While we were doing the road force balancing we checked the link pins and tie rods. They seemed to be within tolerance. the drag link seems like it may be a little loose. I get about 1/4 to 3/8 inch movement at the front of the tire. So is the drag link adjustable or do I need to put a rebuild kit on it? I never rebuilt the drag link the first time I restored the car and it would go well beyond 35 MPH. Greg

The Monroe's that I took off did not have numbers on them I looked. So we just need to find an old Parts catalog that would have the exchange part numbers. Maybe an old Chilton's book from the 50's or 60's.