atlbluz
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Posts
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Everything posted by atlbluz
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No the fronts are shorter than the rears. I spent hours looking for part numbers from Monroe, Gabriel, and Napa. I think I found a cross reference from Napa in the vintage parts catalog and they wanted 225.00 a pair for the shocks. I decided that Andy would be the best at 165.00 for a set of 4. After a while you have to stop cutting bait and bite the bullet. Yes it costs more but sometimes the parts actually are correct. They are definitely better than the 30 year old units that were on there. Greg
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I never could fine a replacement for mine, I just purchased a set from Bernbaum. greg
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Don, I snagged the lower cost units, but I think I should go in the boot business at 170.00 a pair! Watta think? Greg
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Don, I have only been seeing 1 leather boot listed on ebay. Where did you find a pair? greg
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I have never rebuilt my draglink and I think I have too much play in the steering box end. I looked at the technical archives and found nothing. What am I in for? is this a day job or an hour? Greg
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Rats, you stole that from my backyard. Awesome purchase. good luck
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Plymouthy Adams I will have to disassemble one side to check that. I meant to do measurements before I installed, but I got in a hurry and forgot. maybe I should see if someone could reline my old set before the weekend, I know they wee correct.
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I am going to try to respond to you all. to Plymouthy Adams the P-6 has never had spreader pins, the shoes go directly into the wheel cylinder. At least as long as I have had it. To Dodgeb4ya Drums showed no appreciable wear since I last turned them, but I did not arc the shoes to the drum. I may have to pull it apart and check that. To Desoto1939 yes I have moved the bottom eccentrics, I can actually do that with everything assembled. Loosen the steering arms and the eccentrics can be adjusted. Yes I may need to rent the tool.
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Just rebuilt the front wheel cylinders of my P-6. Installed new shoes from Bernbaum. The brakes are working, I can see deflection in the backing plates. But now I have almost no pedal, about 2 inches off the floor. I have adjusted and adjusted and get no change. I had good pedal before I started this. I am adjusting without the wheel and tire on the hub, so I am wondering if the lack of leverage would make that much difference. Any suggestions. Greg
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why don't you just paint the duct tape the same color as the car and quit! Sorry I just had to say it. Have you tried to use window caulk to hold the rubber to the window and to water proof the glass/rubber mating surfaces? That may hold everything in position during the reinstall.
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That spinning metallic sound could be the throw out bearing. It may not be fully disengaging the clutch. The adjustment may help, but you still may have another problem that the adjustment will be masking.
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I paid 85.00
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you could also use speaker wire. it has a high number of strands which makes it very flexible, then just add the ends.
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My 1938 P-6 has an add on cartridge style oil filter that uses the replacement cartridge Napa 1011, wix 5011, Baldwin J405 and the like. It appears that Wix does the manufacturing for these three companies. The parts are not being made to specs and the gaskets no longer the correct diameter. Does anyone have a good source for this filter cartridge.
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You need to become a member
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I have one. that is what I had before I went back to stock. Greg
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You might try to contact the historical society in Jefferson, they usually have some good information and pictures. I need to get the Chrysler Historical Dept. to get my build info. Greg
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38plymouth are you running pump gas or are you running recreation gas? I have been running Recreation gas and I haven't had a problem. Was out last weekend and got stuck in a road closure for 45 minutes. I shut the engine down after 15 minutes when I realized I wasn't going any where soon. restarted in 20 minutes no problem and it was about 94 that afternoon.
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Somebody needs to explain the clothes pins. That makes no sense to me.
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The master parts list I have lists the U.S. parts and the Canadian part numbers. I purchased this online from e-bay and it is reprinted with permission of mopar. Lists all parts form 1929-1939. That might work for you. If you are looking for anything specific I will be happy to look it up for you. NOTE this is a 2 volume CD set. I think I paid 30.00 U.S. and shipping. Greg
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I just did the sweepers on my P-6 and used the material from Restoration Supplies. Also bought the staples they sell. it was very tedious to drill the sweeps and align with the old holes. I also changed the sweep on the chrome wing vent seals. On those I used aluminum pop rivets. Made a much easier job and the seals are firmly held in place. Heads stay below the contact area of the windows. After the fact I wish I had used pop rivets on the sweepers.
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Deathbound, you are correct that is not what is on a P-6. So back to my question, How do I get the cowl vent out to replace the gasket?
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Boy I am sure glad I asked. I was going to attack from under the dash. I never would have figured it out. Thanks. Happy Memorial Day!
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OK, while we are on this subject, can someone tell me how to pull the cowl vent out of my P-6 so I can replace the gasket? I have not gotten under the dash yet but I know I need to do this in the next couple of weeks. I do know that the gasket doesn't clear the vent even when fully open. thanks
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My '38 with a floor shift, is just a hole cut in the two toe boards so the shifter comes thru the floor. PM me and I will try to shoot a picture tonight and send it to you. Greg
