robt

I have a 1955 c series with overdrive (just rebuilt). I don't have the original dash mounted engagement handle and cable. I have one out of a 55 ply. And have seen the 55 dodge car lever which is different than the plymouth. I plan to use the plymouth handle but just curious what the truck handle looked like. Also, did the OD equipped trucks have a badge as the cars did? Thanks Rob

I've had good success with sand blasting and spraying on 2 coats of magnet paints chassis saver and then top coating it (within 24 hours) with any good quality paint. I did a car trailer this way and top coated with rustoleum. 4 Pennsylvania winters later (stored outside) still holding up well. I did my 47 WFX32 the same way and plan on painting my 55 c series the same way. Rob

I recently purchased a 55 c series truck and was told the engine was blown (260 poly). I did get a new full gasket set with it along with a box that contained a bunch of the engines bolts and two connecting rods. Its clear someone has had the heads and pan off. I will disassemble and check it out but want to consider my other options. I have a good 265 flathead that I could put in it and may go that direction but would prefer to keep it a v8. Will the 318 poly bolt in without a lot of modifications? I read somewhere that they changed the crank flange in 1962. I'm not sure if that is true or not. I would like to maintain the original bell housing and overdrive trans. If I opt to go the flathead route, will the bell housing be drilled for both the V-8 and the flathead? Thanks Rob

Looking back ..I should have painted my name and address on the outside of the plywood box that I made and shipped it in. If someone opens the box they will find a paper with my name and phone number. They will need a screw gun to open it though. UPS...communication sucks! I tried to get in touch with my local branch to go and view there lost and found...you can't even get them on the phone. The "investigation team" wouldn't even call me. I called the 800 number twice a day for 10 days...no luck... I had read that they auction off undeliverable packages..I don't know if it is true or not. I tried to find out when and where they do this...and again....they wouldn't deny or confirm this. I'm just hoping that by some luck someone somewhere opens it and contacts me. I keep scouring the web to find another that isn't priced out of my budget. Rob

I just shipped my R10G1 overdrive to George Asche for a rebuild. And UPS lost it! I filed a claim and have hoped for someone to find it...no luck! I was sick with grief for a week over it. I've come to terms with I'm never going to see it again. I didn't opt for additional insurance(big mistake) They gave me $100 for my loss. I will keep looking for a decent core at a reasonable price but want to look at other options as well. In any case I've tried to read through the archives to find other options. I'm planning on putting it behind my 265 into a 29 Chrysler roadster. The 883 is an option but I prefer to go with an earlier transmission. I have 2 ford and 1 Studebaker Overdrives. I'm sure someone has went this route....just wondering what the issues were? I know I'll have to deal with the parking brake, spline on the clutch, pilot bushing, and adapter plate. I haven't decided on a rear yet so I'll deal with u-joint and drive shaft changes also. Thanks for any Help Rob from PA

I have 2 harbor freight units. they work ok with some fiddling. Ended up buying a quality nozzle and dead-man valve at a car show. works much better. I use the black beauty sand which has no silica. I still use a mask and a fabric hood. I have a 4 cylinder compressor so air is not an issue. I have also used one of the dustless blasters. They work well but you can have issues with them as well. Rob

I thought I'd share my 265 project since I've spent countless hours reading this forum. I hope I can attach a link to the youtube video. The block is a (T118) 237 from a 1947 dodge 1.5 ton truck. I had to relieve (grind)the block just a small amount to create clearance for the 265 rods. I had a later 251 block to use as an example. The turned crank and reconditioned rods were from George Asche as were the matched set of carbs, cam, and split exhaust. The block had the deck machined and was bored .060 over. New valve guides and cam bearings were installed. The bearings, pistons and rings were from Terrel machine in Texas. The Manely valves were from ebay from a gentleman in Finland. I built the Accel plug wires from a universal set. The Edmunds custom aluminum intake was a craigslist find. The cam is the .380 lift with 242 degree duration that has been mention on the forum from AoK. Valve springs are from VPW. I'm starting with a 12 volt battery currently, although I plan on keeping 6 volt. Currently, I don't own a 6 v battery that has enough cranking power. There are several little things that are not completed to the way I want them, but I wanted to get it running. throttle linkage, fuel and oil lines, etc. I do have one issue. The front main seal drips one drop every 3 minutes but if you rev it, it throws 3 or 4 drops of oil as it decelerates. I'm running 10w30 with a zinc additive. Possibly 30 wt oil help this? Any suggestions or if anyone has seen this before, I'd love to hear from you. I bought a 1929 Chrysler roadster project that hopefully will be the new home for the 265. I'll probably do a compression test at some point just as a baseline. All and All I very happy with the outcome. Thanks for looking and for all the information. If the video doesn't attach , I'll work on attaching it. Rob

Looks to be a fun truck. You'll certainly turn some heads. If I get a chance next weekend, I'll get a few pics of the 2 speed rear you requested. I have 3 of them, a 47 a 49 and a 51. If you were close to PA I'd make you a good deal on a rear. Not that you would probably ever need it. Your wheels look really nice. I really like the short wheel base with that bed. You'll have to run your engine numbers to see what you have. I bought 2 trucks ( 1.5 toners) that had different engines transplanted. Its always fun finding out that the 251 you just bought turns out to be a 265. Have fun with it!

I have spent several hours of reading threads and searching the web on voltage regulators. If my question is redundant I apologize. I have a GGW 6001C (40 amp 8 volt shunt) generator out of a 1951 dodge fire truck. It appears to be in very good condition compared to the other dozen or so generators that I have. I planned to use it on my 265 build, but after switching my lower pulley to a damper(with narrow belt) I had to switch the pulley on the generator. The original wide belt pulley was about 4.5" OD the narrow belt pulleys that I have are about 3.5" OD. I read in a past thread that the last letter in the gen # relates to the pulley diameter. I'm understand that because I'm going to a smaller pulley the generator will turn more rpm's. Will that be an issue? Will the regulator deal with extra output ? My next issue is the regulator. I found some Autolite data showing the proper regulator for GGw-6001 A,B,D, and J to be # VRP 6004A and GGw-6001 J and K to be #VBE 6001A. I could find nothing on the "C" which I believe is the pulley diameter. Will either of these regulators work? How specific does the regulator need to be to the generator? There appears to be about a dozen different voltage regulators listed between 1947 to 1955. Could I use any of these regulators as long as the are rated for my desired positive ground and are rated for more amps than my generator? Lastly, are there issues with buying a NOS or used one off ebay or should I be looking at buying a newer replacement type regulator? It would be easier to go to the one wire alternator either 6 or 12 volt but I don't want to do that because I want all the wiring in its original configuration. Thanks Rob

Maok, Please keep up with progress on your build. I recently purchased a 29 Chrysler 65 roadster project. With it I got 2 engines. 1-65 series and one 75 series engine. the 75 series has the head off and has been bored .030. The rods with new pistons and rings attached are all bagged and ready to install. I plan on pulling the pan to confirm the mains are done. I will probably finish the rebuild and sell the engine as I plan on using a later 265 engine. In any case I'm very interested in you progress. Thanks Rob

I was digging through a shelf of parts today and found damper that looks like the small one pictured. I didn't know I had it. It must have come off the car engine that I tore apart. in any case I'm going to clean it up and use it on my build. There is a layer of internal rubber that I could see. It appears to be in decent condition. I'm not going to soak it so as not to mess up the rubber. Is that rubber replaceable if you separate it? Only reason I ask is because I know how other 68 year old rubber parts have deteriorated. After reading dodgeb4yas post on the damper engine being a little smoother, I think I'd probably regret not using it knowing that I could have. Rob

Great project. I like it! Glad to see you are giving the old flathead a little tlc and keeping it in place. Rob

I've bought 6 of the 25" engines in the past few years. Two of which were 265"s and none of them had a dampener. five of them were from 1.5 or larger truck engines. The one Chrysler car engine that had been transplanted into a big truck didn't have one either. I guess it could have had one but was removed When transplanted into the truck. There was a thread several months ago on this topic. After reading it, I'm not planning on a dampener on the 265 that is going into my Chrysler roadster. Someone had mentioned that the damper may be more important on the engines with offset connecting rods if I remember correctly. I don't know if that theory is true or not. The one 265 that I bought came from a truck I remember seeing daily as kid. The gentleman that owned it hauled pallets of stone every day. The truck would be wound up pretty good when he approached a hill. It was this guys livelihood but he never babied it. That truck was 30 years old at the time. I also have a truck that hauled coal from 1947 to 1972. I have the weigh slips where it routinely hauled 10.000 lbs of coal. This truck had the 237 engine with no dampener but did have a governor. I think if I had a dampener and room was not a concern then I would use it. But in my case, I'm mating a 265 (bored .060,dual carbs dual exhaust,and cam) to a R10 OD and 3.90 gears. I think I should have plenty of torque to push a 2700 lbs roadster at rpms that I don't have to worry about a dampener. I would love to hear first hand from those who have driven vehicles with 265 or a 251 that compare any differences between engines with and without a dampener. Rob

Thanks for the reply. I bought the 315 hemi 25 years ago. It is complete minus a starter. It has a bell housing that appears to be from a later Mopar. We must have tried 6 or 8 starters that were on the shelf but nothing seemed to fit. Now I'm pretty excited to try it with the 55 dodge bell and starter. I'll plan on swapping out the fly wheel with the 55 as well. I'm pretty sure I read that the tooth count had changed around 57. It will be a project for the spring...guess I'll just have to hang on to the transmission until I see if hemi is a runner or not. Thanks Rob

I've found and purchased several R10's over the past year. The hunt for parts is truly one of the thrills of the hobby for me. (although I'm still a rookie ) I have an R10 complete set-up out of a 55 dodge wagon v-8 car. It has the long input shaft with the fluid drive bell housing(Although it was not a fluid drive). What was the theory behind keeping the long bell when not needed? Just to standardize lengths for drive shafts and cross members ? I had planned on having the transmission converted to a short input shaft and using it on an earlier application. The bell housing wasn't drilled for both the flathead and v8. Since I purchased it, I found and purchased another set-up out of a 55 ply (short bell and input shaft out of a flathead car). This will be used in my next project. I do have a 315 hemi out of a 1959 truck. Will the long bell and input shaft from the 55 dodge bolt up to the 315 hemi? I'm thinking it should but not sure. I can't get at the hemi right now to try the fit but would like to confirm the fit either way. Should it not I'll probably sell it. thanks Rob

I have 2 spare engines one from a 65 and one from a 75. The 75 is the 248 ci freshly bored .030 and new pistons assembled and bagged ready to go in. I need to pull the oil pan and confirm that the mains are done. I just have to see the 7 main bearings. I'm going to finish the rebuild whether I use the engine or not. The 65 engine came out of my roadster, looks like it was a running engine when remove. I have new pistons and rings for it also. Any issues with the vacuum tank? I'm not familiar with how exactly they work. I have a restored one but it has sat for years. I can hear something moving inside when I rotate it. Any idea if the 1930 down draft type intake manifold will fit on the 1929? Is there a Hollander manual that goes that far back that would cover that? I have a parts list coming from the guy I bought the car from(I hope). Its a whole different animal finding parts and information on Chryslers from that era vs the late 40s early 50s that are covered on this site. Both in availability and price. I'm planning on joining WPC club. Is there any other sources for information such as a forum that covers that era Chryslers? I've poked around the AACA site and have learned a little. I have quite few extra parts if you know anyone who is looking for Chrysler stuff from that era. Planning on probably selling some of it on ebay to help fun the project. I have 3 transmissions, an extra roadster cowl, 5 extra of headlights, extra set of front fenders, at least 4 bumpers, 2 extra radiators, a complete restored radio (head, receiver, and antenna), and more. I would love find a wire wheel car and convert my car to wires. I have a set of wire wheels but they are rough and pretty sure they are not correct for my car. Rob

ugh....I guess I'll just have to keep looking. Than you both. dpollo, I noticed you have a '28 Chrysler roadster. Which model? My '29 is model 65. Its totally disassemble labeled in bags and boxes. I will start on it in the spring. A man had spent 30 years gathering parts and restoring parts after he disassembled it but never reassembled it. It will be a long project for sure. If there wasn't so many NOS parts and parts that are ready to assemble I don't think I'd have bought it and attempted such a project. However, I never thought I'd find a roadster from that era that I could afford so if I'm going to have one It's going to take a lot of time and work. Is your roadster stock? I'm struggling with not keeping it all original. I know there are very few left and I have all the parts to keep it original. But....a 265 engine and a R10 overdrive would make that a fun ride. I saw George's 29 Desoto a couple years back and was inspired by his set-up. Does your 28 run well on the road? I'd love to hear more about it. Rob

Is it the center sump type out of a 55 or 56? If so would you be interested in selling it? Thanks Rob

Thanks so much for your reply. I have been looking for a Canadian oil pan for 6 months with no luck. I even joined Kijiji to up my odds of finding one. I would be interested in buying one from you if you have one to sell. I'm not sure how bad the shipping would be from BC to PA, but will look into it if you are serious about selling a pan. I just purchased a 1929 Chrysler roadster (disassembled project) that I will probably save the rebuilt engine for. I do have a 251 out of a 51 firetruck that has very low miles. planning on a cam change and then putting that in the Plymouth down the road. Let me know if interested in selling the pan. I wish I could help with the 230 crank. Is that the US made 230 (23' in engine)? I do have several 237 and 251 cranks and rods setting on a shelf as well, but that won't help you. I started collecting flathead stuff about 4 years ago and acquired about 7 engines trying to find a good block to build the 265 from. I ended up using a 237 block and just relieving the clearances needed with a die grinder. Thanks Rob

I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. I built a 265 out of a 1947 237 ci. big dodge truck engine(used a crank & rods out of a 265). Bored block .060. machined the deck, skim cut off the head, .380 cam, new valves and springs,new pistons, rings, and bearings . I also have an Edmunds dual intake with 2 rebuilt B&B's. I was going to put it in my 47 1.5 ton truck. But, I recently bought a 55 Plymouth savoy 230 3speed with OD. I'm now planning on putting the 265 in it. I know the 230 was nearly the same hp. by 1955 but I have this engine that will be in very good condition and I will certainly drive the car more than the big truck. I know I'm going to have to move the radiator and modify the oil pan. My question is will everything else bolt up? I'm pretty sure the1955 230 flywheel is a six bolt. should I drill the other 2 holes and use the 230 flywheel? The truck flywheel is really heavy and I'm not certain it will work with the car bell housing. I haven't pulled the 230 yet. I just wanted to make sure there isn't another issue I'm not considering. Thanks Rob

The easiest way to confirm a 265 is to remove the fuel pump an view the head on the rod bolt. The 265 will have a very small flat head. The 251 will have a head that looks to be about an 1/8 inch or so. There is probably a pic on this site somewhere. If you can't find one I can post a.pic side.by side. It might be difficult to see with the engine in the car but you can probably use a flashlight and a mirror. ROB

Thanks for all the input. I will definitely post some pics as I go forward. I have been in big truck mode up until this point with the flatheads and definitely have a few obstacles to get around with the big block into the car. Just took a few quick measurements and I don't think my Vintage GMC air cleaners are going to fit on top of the B&Bs in that car. The Edmunds intake rises about 3 inches above the ports and those tall B&B's don't leave much room. The stock carb I'm not real familiar with but it's at least 2-1/2 inches shorter. I have to pull it apart to clean it and find out why the float is not functioning properly this weekend (its either stuck or sunk). But carb issues should be manageable. I will put a thread in the WTB classifieds for an oil pick up and oil pan with the center sump out of a 55 or 56 Canadian Plymouth. That makes sense to me now.(thanks again) I have to wonder if the pick up out of a 230 center sump is the same. Is that the only years that used the center sump??? Did the US made Desoto's or Chrysler's ever use the center sump? I knew they were different than the US made large tuck oil pans but don't the know the specifics, just assumed they were at the opposite end. I know I could fabricate one starting with a truck pan but would rather not have to do that if possible. As far as selling the original 230, I probably will keep it for a future a project. My father has 2 Wayfarer roadsters (project cars) that we just might get to. Thanks Rob

I just purchased a nice 55 Savoy 2 door club sedan (color Pompano Peach). The story with the car is that it came from a museum in Oregon 20 years ago and has been in heated storage since. I can't confirm it but is an interesting story none the less. The interior is very nice.....not original but very nice. The frame and whole underneath of the car is clean rust free and appears to be painted black. There is some rust in front of the rear wheels 2 spots about 3 inches square. I will have to deal with that. The trunk seal and door seals need to be replaced. It has the 230 with factory OD. My intentions are to keep this car a nice clean driver. I have purchased six of the 25" engines in the last couple years and have one nearly completed for a 1947 1-1/2 ton truck. It's a 265 ( Bored .060, new pistons and rings, crank .010 under, recondition and balanced rods, all new bearings, .380 lift cam, and George Ashe rebuilt dual carbs, spitfire head). I can't help but think how cool that engine would be in the savoy. I have read where this swap has been made on the earlier cars by just moving the radiator forward and modifying the oil pan. I don't believe I can do this on my car without some cutting. I might be able to move the bottom of the radiator forward by trimming the sheet metal behind the bumper allowing the radiator to stand straighter giving me the clearance at the bottom that I need. I think there is enough clearance at the top to start with. The top can't be moved without affecting the hood latch location. Even though I have lots parts taken from good and junk engines I will have to probably find an oil pan from a car as mine are all from trucks. The same maybe true of my exhaust manifold. The (B&B) carbs that I have for this engine are the older hand choke type....not a deal killer but I would need to relocate the kick-down switch for the overdrive. I would love to hear from someone who has made this swap on a 55 or 56. At this point it is just and Idea for me. It maybe more trouble than it is worth...but it would certainly be cool and I have the engine . I'm planning on just driving her for this summer while fixing some of the little things. Thanks for any input. Rob from PA 55 savoy 47 wfx-32