timkingsbury

We have quite a few people buying our dual carb intake made from the factory intake for the 25 1/2" block engines, and definately have had great reception for our triple carb intake for the big block, but have not had a large amount of people asking for the dual carb intake for the big block ... so far ! On the dual carb for the small block, actually we hear from a lot of people that they are not happy with the Offenhauser. It has increased Rev but completely looses its torque curve. Its too close to the block and too low. The edmunds ones work well, but theystopped making them close to 50 years ago now, and the prices on the secondary market has really risen. And all of those options do not work for trucks or older cars as here is no place for the linkage that bolts to a stock intake. I will attach a picture of a truck intake and you will see the tabs on the intake to mount the linkage to. Those dont exist on any of the dual carb intakes that we are aware of. Tim

Your get a better flow, and you can put more cfm of carbs on the engine. You can just swap the intake with stock and leave it at that, although the first thing I would do is go to dual exhaust. Either headers or split you stock exhaust. There are lots of options out there. My partner in crime George Asche can take you stock exhaust and split it into real dual exhaust or headers for about $150. Dual intake and dual exhaust with give you more Horsepower and a better torque curve over stock. You do not need to change fuel pumps, or anything else. Depending on what vehicle you have, if you want, whether you change intake or exhaust or not, there are potentially rear end and transmission options to give you more highway speed. But that may or may not be of interest.

Sounds cool. Yes 100 thou off is pretty agressive for pump fuel. I think his "radical cam" is the old 1/4 mile stock car cam. You will see decent performance improvement over stock. The overdrive will definately help. Id suggest changing the "pumpkin" in the rear end with something out of a 1948-1954 chrysler which would get your 3:54 gears. Easy change. Pull the axles and you can change it over easy. Other than that, either use your edmunds two carb intake, and stick a couple of carter ball and balls on them. If you need them, George can provide you a matched pair of completely rebuilt ones for $300 for the pair with exchange of a couple of carbs and seriously even if you use your own rebuilt carter ball and balls, George's stainless linkage is seriously awesome. Or step up since your using headers, and get one of our AoK triples. Ramps up the cool factor, will definately increase the performance and because you have a carb over each siamese intake port, you have absolutely perfectly balanced flow. Hint Hint.. rofl $490 + shipping .. Tim

No sir, the ford weighs 451 pounds more than my business coupe ! There is a reason Lee Petty ran and won with a 1949 plymouth !

I meant to ask.. what engine are you using that you have shaved the head 100 thou.. depending on the motor and head, you may find yourself needing octane booster depending on what octane fuel you have access to. You definately want to avoid some of what I can corn infused gas..

Sure I can do that for you pretty easy ! Yes I am talking the 23 1/2 and 25 1/2" truck stuff. For the 7 main crank engines, 331, 377 , 413 engines they used a completely different series of ball and ball carbs and the expert on rebuilding those was my Dad. Sadly he passed away a few years back. But if you were stuck, I might be able to help out on the big truck stuff. I do have a truck with a 413, an ellis dual carb intake and huge carter ball and ball carbs. I am not a fan of the progressive webers. You get far better mileage and performance out of a triple intake and single barrel carbs. So between the two intakes its a no brainer.. use the dual single barrel intake. On the offy, lots of rev, terrible torque pattern. Id sell that one. The webers are better than nothing, but just dont make sense for a flathead mopar. remember your dealing with 3 siamese ports. The design of the weber was to use 1 barrel at low speed, and as you press the throttle the 2nd barrel engages. The problem is that two of them both using the 1st barrel is less cfm than most single barrel carters and so your into the second barrel too early. Then wide open those 4 barrels have less cfm that two reasonable sized carter truck carbs. So while the webers work super well for a lot of cars like MG;s they are not effective for the flathead mopars. Take the dual carb dual barrel intake, out a converter from a 2 barrel to a 1 barrel and your better off. But too your question, here is a list of most of the common carter ball and ball carbs and I have included the throttle bore and venturi sizes for most of them. My1949 plymouth business coupe is running 3 - e7u2 carbs modified, and running now hard to find Grose Jets. Our Dragster is running 3 e9k1 carbs and they have been heavily modified so the total cfm of the 3 carbs is pretty close to 2500 cfm in total. Not exactly high fuel mileage street carbs.. CARBURETOR STUFF Plymouth 1933 – 1938 – model 439s (1 7/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) 1940 – 1942 - “P9” Carter Carb Ball and Ball model # b6p1, b6r1 and b6s1 (2 hole base) (1 5/32 throttle bore 1 3/32 venturi) 1942 (p14) and 1946-48 (p15) Model d6g1 – (2 hole base) (1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) * 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2 ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) there was a d6n1, d6n2 and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors * 1953 – 1954 – P24-p25 Plymouth with overdrives – D6U1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) Dodge 1937 – 1940 truck - etr1r (2 hole base) 1940 – 1948 cabover is a 6c1, 6c2, 6d1, 6dir, 6e1, 6f1, 6g1, 6m1 (updraft carb) 1941, 42, 46, 47 truck etr1r, b6s1, dta2, dtb1-dtb1r, dtb2-dtb2r, dtb3-dtb3r, etp2, etr1-etr1r 1942 – 1949 trucks – model dtc1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) or model ett1 (1 11/16 bore and 1 11/32 venturi) * 1946-1947 carbs with velocity governors – eyb1, eyb4, eyc1, eyc3, et1, et2, et4, e7b1, e7c1, e7f1, e7s1 * 1950-1954 ½ and ¾ ton and 1952 1 ton – dte1 and dte2 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) * 1950 – 1956 1 ½ - 3 ton – e7t1 and e7t2 (1 11/16 throttle bore 1 11/32 venturi) 1950-1954 cabover is 6n1 and 6n2 (updraft) ** 1952 2 ¾ - 4ton with dual carbureters – e7u1 and e7u2 1 11/16 throttle bore amd 1 11/32 venturi) * Dodge d46 and d47 – 1953 - model d6h2 1 – 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi * Same thing but with overdrive – model d6u1 (same bore and venturi) ** 1953-1956 2 ½ ton truck with 2 carbs – model e9k1 and 39y1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 265 ci motor carbs) *1953-1955 2 ¾ ton – 3 ½ ton or 1953-56 4 ton – model e9g1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) (this was the 331-377-413 big block motor with dual carbs) * 1953-1955 1 and 1 ½ ton truck (route van) e9h1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 9/32 venturi) (this is the 331-377-413 big block – single carb) * 1954 d51 and d52 – e9n1 or e9t1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi)

Howdy Folks - As discussed on the forum under various topics, my father Eddy Kingsbury, George Asche, his boys Rob and George III along with myself and a buddy developed a triple carb intake for the Canadian 25 1/2" big block flatheads. We used the 50's triple that Eddy Edmunds produced and dramatically improved the flow of the intake as well as made a number of changes to the design to dramatically improve the performance (torque and RPM) over other multiple carb intakes. We did not develop that intake for commercial purposes, but for use on our rear engine dragster and a couple of personal projects. I put the setup on my 1949 Plymouth business coupe (sporting a modified 265 ci motor) and am currently getting ready to put it on a 1956 Fargo pickup. If you want to see it in action on my car or the dragster I have uploaded a view video's on youtube. https://www.youtube....7YNWI2Rnnvn8rig I had mentioned in my post under the tatterfield intake thread that we have thought about doing a dual carb intake for the USA built 23 1/2" block engines.. aka all your P15/D24 cars. Well the feedback over the past week has been absolutely unexpected. Heck we have already had 2 guys wanting to send checks . Today we have decided to proceed with the project! So there will be an AoK Dual Carb intake for the USA 23 1/2" flathead 6 cylinder mopars ! We basically already have all the research and the majority of testing done when we created our triple for the big block. We have had a number of car guys who are unhappy with the performance of the offy's (lots of rev but looses torque over stock) or other intakes and who are seeing huge prices for vintage Edmunds intakes, ask us to consider making a dual carb setup. We also know with lots of our triples out there to confirm our triple is outperforming the super rare Edmunds triple, that we are confident a dual carb setup would outperform any similar intake ever produced. Our big advantage is not only is there better flow and other testing instrumentation available to us today, but foam core casting just allows for a product that could not have been made in the 40's-60's, when all of the dual carb intakes were designed. We have spent several hours with our machinist / intake genius, who takes our designs and turns them into reality. He will start the core development Monday ! Things we still have to finalized ------------------------------------------ 1) Whether we put a water tube integrated in the intake as Edmunds did with 2 of his versions. Note: we know it is not required, there is no measurable performance increase and the carbs don’t ice without it. But the customers are always right on what they want and a number of guys have asked for them. It required another core mold, and will require us or the customer to prep and tap both sides to it can be plumbed. 2) Whether we put the tabs or a large tab on the outside of the tube so that it can be used for trucks and older mopars. The tabs are drilled and tapped to mount linkage. (I’ve attached a picture of a factory truck intake.) 3) Whether we put the linkage tabs (like Eddy Edmunds did) on the inside (block side) of the intake or the outside of the carbs. Edmunds started off with none, then went to the inside and the last ones were all on the outside. None of the other intakes even have them. The easy answer would be do what all the ones being produced now do which is don’t do anything, but heck the Kingsbury and Asche's never do the easy angle if it is just to avoid work or time to produce a better product ! 4) Finally, what the name will be beside "AoK" lol... I know falls into the minor category. Right now it is looking like an AoK dual carb intake, machined, with the truck linkage tab(s) are likely going to retail for $400-$425. If we drop the water tube and truck and older car linkage tabs we are likely $25 cheaper than that. We will, as several suggested serialize each intake Thanks again for everyone who has sent notes, called us and provided input on the project Tim Kingsbury and George Asche AoK Racing and Asche Mechanical Distributors

Howdy Folks - As some may know my father Eddy Kingsbury and George Asche along with myself and a buddy developed a triple carb intake for the Canadian 25 1/2" big block flatheads. We used the 50's triple that Eddy Edmunds produced and dramatically improved the flow of the intake as well as made a number of changes to the design. We did so not so much for commerical purposes but for use on our rear engine dragster and a couple of personal projects. I put the setup on my 1949 plymouth business coupe (sporting a modified 265 ci motor) and am currently getting ready to put it on a 1956 Fargo pickup. If you want to see it in action on my car or the dragster I have uploaded a view video's on youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8y7yB5J7YNWI2Rnnvn8rig But the reason for my post is to gauge if there is interest in making a dual carb setup that could be used on not only cars, but trucks and older cars. The big difference as I am sure you guys know is the tabs on the outside of the intake for mounting linkage. That is something the edmunds, offy or other intakes dont have. It would be for the USA small block engines. We bascially already have all the research and testing done when we created our triple for the big block. We have had a number of car guys who are unhappy with the performance of the offy's (lots of rev but looses torque over stock) and who are seeing huge prices for vintage edmunds intakes ask us to consider making a dual carb setup. We also know with lots of our triples out there to confirm our triple is outperforming the super rare edmunds triple, so we are confident a dual carb setup would outperform any similar intake ever produced. Our big advantage is not only is there better flow testing instrumentation available today, but foam core casting just allows for a product that could not have been made in the 40's-60's when all of the dual carb intakes were designed. Right now it is looking like an AoK dual carb intake, machined, with the truck linkage tab(s) drilled and tapped are likely going to retail for $400-$425 Is there any interest from the flathead truck world ? Thanks for your time and any input is appreciated Tim Kingbury and George Asche

Thought I would upload another intake in the"cool contest" Someone had emailed me today to know if we had ever flow tested a thickson. This is the picture of the one he was looking at, which unfortunately I had to burst his bubble that it was a "bow tie". But it is almost identical to the thickson we have tested.It certainly looks cool and it had a water galley that goes all around the intake. If ever there was an intake to prove whether there is benefit to heat the intake this was the one. One the flow bench, while it was as cool as it comes, it comes dead last in terms of anything we ever flowed. I am sure the design was to get a swirl of fuel and air going, however it actually started to condense fuel that was already vaporized and has all kinds of flow issues. On an engine it has huge lags, and does provide RPM but completely looses torque over stock. If we compare the thickson to a rock stock intake and just put a big cfm carb off a truck, the stock intake actually outperforms the thickson. So cool 10/10. look of dual carbs 9/10 (10/10 reserved for a triple) but performance a 4/10 with the scale of 5/10 being rock stock. But thought some might like to have a look at another cool intake from the past. Tim

signals were optional. Heater was standard, but maybe you could buy them with a delete. I know my aunt bought the one I have with absolutely no options. It was a special order absolute base model.. On the rad - oh $200 if it works is definately not bad, and way less than what I have seen. 4 core.. excessive.. nah.. not when you build a performance engine. But then it was definately more than your $200 alunimum one !

If you goal is to drop the weight.. with all the work and money your throwing around, what you want to do is exactly what Lee Petty did because he wanted to lower the weight.. Buy a 1949 plymouth business coupe. It will start off lighter than what you will have. Changing the rad, nets you nothing if you put a modern multi core rad in. I have weighed them. Starter, yes, but it is definately not a major gain. The alunimum head 13 pounds. Modern disc brakes nets you about 20 pounds, however its lots of work and I prefer to actually put bigger brakes on them, by taking a 1950-1955 chrysler with 12" brakes and changing them over, but you gain 5 pounds dont loose any. But hey, bore the engine out 80 tho and the added hp will more than compensate ! You can drop 40 pounds if you want to put a light weight alunimum flywheel in there and you can put in an auburn clutch and pressure plate and loose more weight. Weight out the rear ends before you start that swap as I am not sure you wont wind up increasing your weight. I tend to put 3:54 gears (just the pumpkin) out of a chrysler to give me more streetable speed, but that doesnt loose weight. You can take out the inner fenders, and put in plastic ones or fab fiberglass ones,,, sure loose the back seat, but again, switch to a 1949 plymouth business coupe and you drop more than all the weight your trying to loose !

The D&S is a copy of the Fenton. I have had one, meaured it, and it is exactly the same performance wise.. The tattersfield is indeed the coolest looking... lol well until this entry into the "who care about performance, I want cool".. How about this one off for cool ! Tim ps: Yes we have had a tattersfield head. It was for a small block only. Dad had ordered a big block one, but they never came through with producing them. The head allows you to bore an engine out .125 which makes it very thin but is still possible (most of the time) and use chevy pistons). In a normal head the chevy piston would hammer the head. Stock car guys used to machine off the top of the piston or part of the top of the piston so the other part when into the chamber. The tattersfield was much thicker of an intake by almost an inch. So again, pretty cool and with the right components could out perform an edmunds. If you just used stock pistons it did not outperform an edmunds. So it was a bit of a race-only type of head. Tim

Thanks Robin, It is an odd design. Looks like he took his chevy version which needs a step back and just changed the design of the intake ports. Just some items/measurement that I would need to take an educated guess. So for example an Edmunds has a carb height (centerline of engine ports to base of carbs) of 4.37” and has distance from the block to the center of the carbs of 3.632”, a carb port diameter which ranges a lot by the generation of the Edmunds intake and whether it is small or large block and dual or triple carbs.. But the biggest one is 1.54” and the engine port size of the intake is 1.3” An offy has a shorter distance to the block and a carb height of less than 2”. Since I am sure the next question will be what is the AoK triple and you could buy one and measure it, I will save the time.. Our carb ports are 1.7” which is the max size of the biggest Carter ball and ball carb made. Our intake port size is 1.5” which is the max size of readily available gaskets. Our carb height is 3.955” and the carb ports centerline is 4.0”. That gives a better flow. I will attach the core of our AoK beside an Edmunds triple. The side profile of the core and the Edmunds actuall the core should be flipped end for end.. what looks Like by the picture as the intake into the port runners are actually the carb runners That sharp looks like it has a short distance from the block and then has a much bigger block that on the surface looks awkward in terms of flow. But if I knew the distance, carb height, port and carb sizing I would have a better guess. Other than that, I would need to get one to test it. Question, your looping of the fuel line.. is that just to be cool and eye catching (which it is) or is there some performance concept there ? tim

part 2 - as promised .. George at his booth at Chrysler carlisle.. you can see his dual and triples he makes from stock intakes, for both small and large blocks

Lol sorry about that Andy, I didn’t realize you were “down under”. That would be a bit of a hike. Yes when the Canadian Engine plant opened up in Feb 1936 and the big block was created, all of the English colony’s would soon start getting them. In the later years of course the same bore is used for the 238, 250 and 265 ci motors just different rods and cranks with gave you a 4 ¼” stoke for the 238, 4 ½” stroke for the250 and 4 3/4 “ for the 265. The rail is a NHRA vintage class car. Pisses off the old vette guys who take an old car and then put a modern big cube engine in them. The long story short is using a 1952 block, we are able to run in a vintage class. But the honest truth is it is a hassle at many tracks who basically ignore NHRA rulings, and we really are more a novelty than a car we want to campaign. In terms of the intake..well you can buy the AoK triple now. I use it on my 1949 plymouth and the dragster. We have guys who have put them on rock stock engines. Put smaller carbs on them and they got better fuel mileage than the original 1 carb setup. The reason for that is simple. In a single carb intake, your putting fuel down the center on the intake and the intake is then distributing the fuel into the 3 siamese intake ports. Since there is the same pull from each cylinder, you actually get more fuel in the middle siamese port that either of the outside intake ports and under acceleration you get slightly less in the back two cylinders (back siamese port) and the least on the front two. So by putting a carb directly over each of the siamese port you get perfecly distributed fuel. So you need to use less fuel to get the same results. Now the intake design does a few other things but that is the high level reason. Drop me a line I can give you the details. I think we still have 2 or 3 AoK intakes left for sale and then we will see whether we have another 10 made. In terms of a 2 carb set up George Asche has been making them out of stock intake successfully for years. I will put up a second reply in a second with a picture of him at Chrysler Carlisle a few years ago. Unfortunately while is health is still decent, George hasnt been to Chrysler Carlisle for a coupleof years now so I am not sure for how much longer he will be doing it and if his boys will keep at that end off the business. We could make a dual carb AoK version but we would need to sell a dozen or so before we went down that road, although all the design work is done. We are more likely to do the dual carb small block version. Just based on the feedback from the forum this past week, we may just start on that project soon. Just need to get a few more semi-confirmed or confirmed preorders. Tim

VeryCool pictures. I am not a fan of the Eggy Heads as they do not have as many water passages as the Edmunds and I find they overheat if run hard. In the bigblock engines, I use a 1952-56 dodge truck head, shave it a bit and it will outperform either the Eggy or the Edmunds head actually. That series, the chamber is a more closed chamber like the Edmunds had done. Not sure if your looking for me to comment on your plans or not there.. Boring out 60 thou definately gives you more cubes.As my Dad said many times, there is no replacement for displacement. I know 80 over pistons are also readily available. If you can find them get Forged vs cast. The cam you refer to, I have no experience with, so I would have to know the specs to give you an educated guess on what you would have.Strombergs, i prefer carter ball and balls and you have far more cfm options with the carter. If you want I can supply you or upload the carter ball and ball specs. HEI - I am not sure why. There is zero wrong with the vintage mopar ignition, and the whole concept is a chevy one because they had terrible ignition in the 50;s. I run rock stock on my 1949 plymouth and 1941 plymouth and on about 5 other old mopars as does my buddy George with no problems. So HEI for me is a global waste of money.. use it elsewhere on the build. I use headers created from the split exhaust. Viritually exactly the same flow as the much heavier fenton style headers being sold and a ton cheaper ! I think George charges $150 for a pair with your old exhaust.I will attach a couple of shots of them installed. My engine is a big block, but they look the same on the small block. The compression on the dragster is not streetable and on the youtube video were using airplane fuel. Right this moment it is set up with the same carbs to run alchol. I also know of at least one guy who has taken our AoK triple and is running NOS into it.The intake is designed to allow for tapping it for NOS in each runner.But I will attach a couple of shots of the dragster engine before it was put in the car. It is running a modified Edmunds intake. The modification is that we welded in more material and machined it to change the chamber configuration as well as shaved the head which is super easy to do. If you want to drop me a note I will give you more details but I would prefer not to post on a public forum too much about the dragster details. But my 1949 plymouth is streetable, runs pump gas and is north, rofl of 100 hp... happy to tell you more if your sworn to keep the secret ! The reason is its too easy to add two and two together, and or call up and want a specific horsepower and then get sticker shock because if we have to build an engine exactly spec'd like my 1949 plymouth its pricy. Just the custom top fuel venola pistons and plasma moly rings were my cost $2 grand. But money wasnt an object and I want to build the ultimate streetable flathead engine. Tim

Yep... carved them 6061T6 alunimum. 6061T6 alunimum is aircraft grade for fittings and gears and is high strength and high resistance to corrosion and you can really put a high polish on it. Here is a close up picture of them on my 1949 plymouth. Crank and water pump version and of course routed to the high amp mopar alternator I put on, courtesy of George's boys George III and Rob who did that one up for me. Unfortunately because of what I made them out of and the amount of machining they wouldnt be cheap. We would have to have $125. for the crankshaft pulley and $135 for the water pump pulley or $250 for a pair + shipping and if I really told you what we would be making on them, you would laugh your face off and by that I mean, not much in the way of profit there.

Hi Kent.. lol.. they never had seat belts or signals but should have heat. Now if you look at mine, I took out the cardboard heater tube as I have no intention to drive it in the winter, and well then I didnt have to route it around the triple carb manifold I am using. I will attach a couple of pictures.You will see the opening in the firewall in these pictures, which is where the heater box was routed. If you look close you would see I too changed to 12 volts, but alias I used a mopar alternator ! I use our AoK triple and George Asche made the cast iron headers for me out of a stock exhaust system. I took a stock rad, top and bottom tanks and had a 4 core rad created so I likely have more rad than Don or yours and lol wasnt likely as expensive as those fancy looking alunimum beauties.

Hi Kented - It is the exact same kit. I assume your car is a Canadian Plymouth ? 25 1/2" block as opposed to the smaller USA 23 1/2" block. Here is the carter ball and ball info * 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2 ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) there was a d6n1, d6n2 and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors So the d6h1 kit will work just fine with you carb and not that it would matter to me bit it is correct for your car. Of course given your switching to GM conversion crap ignition, lol... it likely doesnt matter to you either. I will attach a picture of my 1949 plymouth business coupe. Rolled off the line in Windsor Ontario in April 1949. If you get to the point you want to run, say an air conditioner and need dual pulleys, give us a call ! I will attach a few shots of them Tim

I did find a picture of Al Sharp holding a chev 6 cylinder intake. I have seen those, and I have see and had a sharp head (poor mans version of the edmunds head as it didnt have enough water jackets and ran really hot). and have seen sharp flathead ford heads and intakes and I know the flathead ford guys rave about the, I did make a quick call to George and he has seen a sharp intake for a small block (dodge/plymouth) but never had it on a vehicle. If someone has one and can send me some pictures and some measurements I can take an educated guess as to if it was a copy of someone elses, or a new design. I do know that Al Sharp brought out his small block Mopar head some time after Eddy Edmunds brought out his, and there are definately similarities. Tim

Hi Andy you said "Make that 3 interested in results, also I would be interested in learning exactly what has been done to the dragster engine to get 7000rpm?......its not that I would copy it..lol.......tho' if I win the lottery you'll get a couple of orders, lol........but seriously tho' I am VERY impressed with what you guys have done and would like to know what changes, modifications etc you have had to do to get a flathead spinning at 7000.....anyway many thanks for all the work so far, I am very impressed, regards, Andy Douglas| Lol.. yes I am sure you are.. Actually, it spins about 7 grand.. I would say we can show you it touching well over 7200 rpm. It depends on what results your are interested in. We have tested I think 7 different intakes and have not tested a sharp so I can’t tell you. I can certainly rank intakes top to bottom and I think I have already done that. It really isn’t in our interest to start putting up charts showing testing results, both flow, and putting exact same carbs on exact same engines and measuring results up on a website when there are people actively competing against us and can take that kind of data that has costed us a lot of time Lol.. yes I am sure you are.. Actually, it spins about 7 grand.. I would say we can show you it touching well over 7200 rpm. It depends on what results your are interested in. We have tested I think 7 different intakes and have not tested a sharp so I can’t tell you. I can certainly rank intakes top to bottom and I think I have already done that. It really isn’t in our interest to start putting up charts showing testing results, both flow, and putting exact same carbs on exact same engines and measuring results up on a website when there are people actively competing against us and can take that kind of data that has costed us a lot of time and money and use it against us. Even more so when we are thinking about bringing a dual carb Plymouth/dodge manifold to market. That just wouldn’t be a good business plan, although I understand the curiosity ! But the proof is in the pudding, so right now we have enough aok triples out there you can talk to people who have them, so you can listen to online or come out and see them on vehicles we have. I am pretty confident you’re not going to see to many outperforming us. But let me talk about your question about the dragster.. or did you have a look at the YouTube video on my 1949 Plymouth business coupe as we first fired it up. The short version on how to get the engine to 7200+ rpm is cam design, get it breathing and get lots of fuel into it and out of it via the way of exhaust. The trade-off is that it is around 2000rpm to have it idle and for the street that is going to be very lumpy. The difference (short version) between the dragster and my business coupe is a less radical cam, less cfm of carbs and a more street legal exhaust.. oh and the dragster uses a magneto Other than that, the engines are very close.. Both have Venola Racing Pistons that we had custom made. They are top fuel grade pistons, plasma moly rings. My car bored out 90 tho. The race car out 120 tho. Everything is balanced, and the crank has a few mods then mated up with clevite 77 bearings. The block is decked, the heads on each are specially prepared, there is some valve work and both have cams that we have custom cut to our specifications using our patterns. We have used various intakes, heck George used an edmunds triple on his 29 desoto when he won the flying mile on daytona beach in the early 50s so we have experience with that and a lot of intakes. It wasnt we couldn’t get one as I have 3 edmunds triples sitting on the shelf right now. But we felt we could take today’s technology and improve on the intake. In the end, it’s not even close and putting our AoK triple on the dragster or on my 1949 Plymouth business coupe really has resulted in major gains. Topped off with specially prepared ball and ball carbs and bingo. there is how you get to 7200+ rpm. There is no turbo or supercharger, there is no NOS on it, there is no magic fuel. Now notice I didn’t say we would never try a super charger.. hint hint. Oh I may have missed out a few prayers and asking God for a lot of help! Hey maybe you should plan a trip out to see us. There is nothing like taking a ride in person to see whether there is real performance or just a bunch of hot air ! For those on the board that have made the trek, maybe had a ride in Georges 1929 Desoto or 1950 Plymouth 4 door that likely has 1/2 ton of extra stuff in it at all times, they can tell you what performance they have. But as impressive as those are, and they are, you come for a ride in my 1949 Plymouth business coupe and you won’t believe it. But then seeing the dragster fire up will likely drop the odd jaw as well ! I hope that helps. I am really not trying to evade or avoid questions but I am not going to hand over all our hard work to competitors for free either. Tim

Hi Robin - you said "Yes, I'd be interested, too.I'm also running a Sharp dual carb intake with twin Carters." See my note to Derek. I have never tested the intake so I cant comment on it. I have never seen one that I remember off the top of my head. Your using twin carters, do you mean two carter ball and balls or twin as in two barrel new style carters?

Hi Derek - You said - "Can you post results of your testing for us? If it's proprietary info & you choose not to, I understand. I have a Sharp dual carb intake & am curious how it rates among them. I'm currently running the Carter/Weber carbs Langdon sells, but I really want to send a couple stock carbs I have to George for rebuilding. Thanks for any info & your informative posts. Derek" As I think you have guessed that is really not information I am going to post on a public forum that then can be used against us. We have not tested a sharp dual carb intake. In fact I have never seen on. Would be interested in having a look at it and flowing it. Is it one of the copies of one of the other intakes as I have seen done, or is it a new creation. On the Carter/Webers, lets say I have known Tom a long time and he is a great guy. I often kid him he has wasted too much time trying to fix bowties and should have spent more time on Mopars. Tom has also done George and I lots of favors as we have him, so I am not about to take shots at Tom. I like and respect him too much. I will say, we dont use the carter/weber carbs. Let leave it there.

Yes it is indeed a pretty rare peice and I do have 1, but really havent tried to improve it. The flathead 8 market is super slim and its more a torque than an rpm engine. I have never flow tested the intake either although the big plus is the fact your can put a second carb and this more cfm of carb. It is quite sqaure in nature so if you were looking for better flow, then the Ellis that was made for the flathead 8 has a little better flow.. To explain the comment of a little square. I have enclosed some pictures.. The one intake is the edmunds triple made for the canadian big block 6 (25 1/2 block) and beside it is the core sample for our AoK triple. You can see the gentle curve verses the must squarer 90 degree angles. and then you can see the AoK triple completed. For Eddy Edmunds, the casting technology he used was state of the art, so I am not slamming the effort. Ellis made their dual carb for the flathead 8 30 years later and so things had changed... and when we made out triple, it has changed dramatically and now you can use foam core. I am sure Eddy would have made significant changes had he had the current technology. But back to your intake.. I think the cool factor is through the roof and that is why I have 1. I put adapters on mine taking the dual carb posts back to a single barrel carb. The why.. is because a 1952-1956 truck carb can be jetted to 625 cfm per carb. So I could get more cfm out of 2 single carter ball and balls, than 2 dual carb intakes of the period. Besides, its easier for me to pull matched singles than duals. this isnt the adapter we used, but it will give you an idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/stromberg-etc-2-barrel-carb-to-1-barrel-manifold-adapter-rat-rod-new-/131347546411?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e94ec812b&vxp=mtr You can also flip them to use dual barrel carbs on a single barrel intake. I also gained a bit of hieght which actually helped with rpm as well. But the truth is, its more about cool and in a chrysler business coupe, its more about cool. It just weighs to much to be anything other than that. So I hope to see you get that on the engine and in a vehicle ! Tim

Cool..But we have to get you dual exhaust. Getting the exhaust away, aka let it breathe is really important. You will definately see a significant difference! Tim