timkingsbury

Hi Lloyd - If you have some time give us a call and we can talk to you about overdrives and how they are engaged, and work. It would be the r10 that is electric and has a kick down switch on it. If you were closer I would offer to take you for a spin and believe me you would see that they work well. But give us a call and we can explain how they work. I have attached the picture of the kickdown switch, on my 1949 plymouth and it has an r10 overdrive. In terms of carbs, there are different configurations as well as different cfms. In terms of a cheat sheet for the plymouth and dodge trucks.. here are the main ones. If its tomorrow George should be around most of the day 814-354-2621 and he is the expert of experts. I should be around until about 10am eastern standard time at 519-766-5695 and after 10am I will be on the road, showing up at George's later on tomorrow afternoon. Tim Kingsbury CARBURETOR STUFF Plymouth 1933 – 1938 – model 439s (1 7/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) 1940 – 1942 - “P9” Carter Carb Ball and Ball model # b6p1, b6r1 and b6s1 (2 hole base) (1 5/32 throttle bore 1 3/32 venturi) 1942 (p14) and 1946-48 (p15) Model d6g1 – (2 hole base) (1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) * 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2 ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) there was a d6n1, d6n2 and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors * 1953 – 1954 – P24-p25 Plymouth with overdrives – D6U1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) Dodge 1937 – 1940 truck - etr1r (2 hole base) 1940 – 1948 cabover is a 6c1, 6c2, 6d1, 6dir, 6e1, 6f1, 6g1, 6m1 (updraft carb) 1941, 42, 46, 47 truck etr1r, b6s1, dta2, dtb1-dtb1r, dtb2-dtb2r, dtb3-dtb3r, etp2, etr1-etr1r *1942 – 1949 trucks – model dtc1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) or model ett1 (1 11/16 bore and 1 11/32 venturi) * 1946-1947 carbs with velocity governors – eyb1, eyb4, eyc1, eyc3, et1, et2, et4, e7b1, e7c1, e7f1, e7s1 * 1950-1954 ½ and ¾ ton and 1952 1 ton – dte1 and dte2 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) * 1950 – 1956 1 ½ - 3 ton – e7t1 and e7t2 (1 11/16 throttle bore 1 11/32 venturi) 1950-1954 cabover is 6n1 and 6n2 (updraft) ** 1952 2 ¾ - 4ton with dual carbureters – e7u1 and e7u2 1 11/16 throttle bore amd 1 11/32 venturi) * Dodge d46 and d47 – 1953 - model d6h2 1 – 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi * Same thing but with overdrive – model d6u1 (same bore and venturi) ** 1953-1956 2 ½ ton truck with 2 carbs – model e9k1 and 39y1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1/32 venturi) (this is the 265 ci motor carbs) *1953-1955 2 ¾ ton – 3 ½ ton or 1953-56 4 ton – model e9g1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) (this was the 331-377-413 big block motor with dual carbs) * 1953-1955 1 and 1 ½ ton truck (route van) e9h1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 331-377-413 big block – single carb) * 1954 d51 and d52 – e9n1 or e9t1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi)

Welcome to the “Keeping Up with the AoK boys” blog, or in other words, Ramblings about Vintage Mopar Performance stuff with the Kingsbury's and Asche's This Blog really originated after several forum members suggested I should start a blog. After discussions with the p15d24 site owner, my “brothers”, the guy who calls me his “3rd son” rofl, George Asche, and a few forum members, I decided to take the plunge. I will start off apologizing in advance to all of the above ! Lol, in other words, be careful what you suggest. Along the way, I will maybe provide some history of the Asche’s and the Kingsbury’s, what each have been or are up to, and maybe some snippets of our past projects or future plans ! This blog will primarily focus on Mopar. Don’t get me wrong, my father Eddy and George always loved Chevy and Fords. As Dad often said, "if it wasn’t for Chevy’s and Fords breaking down, I likely would have never made a good living !" But after loving their obvious inferior qualities, that ends it. So discussions about putting 350 chevy v8’s into mopars will be confined to the numerous times one member or another of the family put one in the box of a pickup, because we sure as heck wouldn’t use one to power a vehicle. So if you think using Chevy V8’s to power anything Mopar is a good idea, well, this blog won’t be for you, so save your blood pressure and don’t read it! We / I will happily take questions, and will be pretty liberal about letting people ramble on among themselves. As a former Canadian Junior Hockey player I learned early, I don’t need to be in the middle of every fight ! Thanks folks and let the games begin. Tim Kingsbury direct email: fargopickupking@yahoo.com

Lol.. well when the new AoK dual carb intake is complete early in the new year, I suspect one will find its way on that car. The 41 really was really a car that was restored to be a show car.The guy who did it won a ton of shows with the car but unfortunately developed health problems and put it up for sale. He was not getting anywhere near what the car was worth, forget about what he had in it which was likely 60-70K. A good friend of mine called me about the car and in a weak moment, I went out had a look with my "brother from another mother" aka George Asche's son Rob, and I bought it. We brought her home, put it in heated storage and to be honest it really didnt need anything, and not everything we have has to be hopped up, so I have left it as I got it. But with the new AoK intake coming, and this is the only US small block vehicle I own, well it may get its 1st non-factory upgrade.. lol.. Then again, a couple of guys keep bugging me to buy it, so who knows. But it is indeed a pretty car.

Ok Cool.. I thought you had said yours was out of a ranger, but maybe you meant the ranger clutch. Glad it is working well. So basically for the conversion you used the t5, rangers clutch and plymouth pressure plate and I assume the plymouth bell housing

Sorry after I posted it the chart definately didnt look as it did when I uploaded it. Here is a link to it online http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm

Hi Don - Do you have the T5 in your car at this point ? From what I had read the transmission of non-world class only had 265 torque rating on it. That and the split in the gear ratio I was concerned there would be really only about 3 gears one would really use. So would be interested in what it was actually like in the vehicle. Right or wrong here was the article I had as my reference point and the chart below it showed the ratios and what they were originally produced for.Of course it would show your transmission as out of a "GM 1985-86 S-Truck 2.5 L4-2.8 V6" Tim "The easiest and surest way to identify the original application or gear ratios of a specific used Borg-Warner T5 transmission is to check and look-up the ID tag number using the chart below. You'll notice that the chart contains a few abbreviations. The abbreviation "WC" stands for "world-class", which was the term Borg-Warner used to promote improved, second-generation versions of their popular five speed manual transmissions. World-class T5's were used in various Ford models starting in the 1985 model year, and in various GM models starting in the 1988 model year. What makes a world-class T5 preferable? The world-class T5 transmission had bearings on 1st, 2nd and 3rd mainshaft gears whereas the non-world-class T5 transmissions didn't. Secondly, the world-class transmissions used tapered roller bearings on the countershaft, whereas non-world-class transmissions used flat (cylindrical) roller bearings. The synchronizers are also quite different: world-class T5 transmissions used 3-piece blocker rings on 1st and 2nd and friction-lined (aka "fiber" or "composite") powder-coated steel-core rings on 3rd and 4th for longer life. Non-world-class T5 transmissions used one-piece brass blocker rings throughout. With these improvements, the world-class transmissions have proven more durable, although both kinds are rebuildable. (Generally, world-class T5 transmissions have higher torque ratings. Many of the non-world-class transmissions are rated for 265 ft-lbs, whereas many of the world-class transmissions are rated at 300 ft-lbs. The Ford Motorsports "T5z" is rated 330 ft-lbs.) T-5 Transmission Application Chart (below is the link to the chart which outlines each model, what its used for and the ratio in each gear) http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm

Howdy Dick - I see a lot of good information coming forward here for you. I too have a 1941 plymouth business coupe. I will attach a few pictures of it and it too was a WA car. On my car the serial number of the door post, is the same as the serial number on the left (drivers side) outter frame rail just behind the rear end and it is that serial number that was on the title when I got the car. Now that being said, the owner I bought it from had bought it many years prior from another state and the title did not match the door post. He went through a lengthy process and eventually found the title did match the serial number on the back frame rail. None of those numbers did or should they match the engine serial number. I read in another post you dont see a serial number on the back frame rail. I assume it doesnt look like the serial number was ground off, or if it was it is some time ago. So it would seem if I am reading things correctly, that you may have a 1941 plymouth title, but it may not have been the title for the car. I read you have a law enforcement officer check that door post serial number to see if it is clear, and I dont want to toss doubt on your purchase, but just because its is clear in the state the current title was from, doesnt mean it wasnt less than clear in some other state. I am also not a lawyer, but given you have the clear title and the estate sale documents you certainly have a clear path showing you did not steal the car. On the engine front, thank the baby Jesus your not putting a v8 in it. The 1941 actually did have an optional overdrive for the car. You can put in one of those or a more modern 1952-56 electic overdrive in the car to help the highway side. On the engine, since you were thinking of the potential of a v8, therefore your likely not too concerned about everything not matching, so I would recommend you put in the later 230 ci motor. Have one of those built up, there are lots of period performance options out there (and will be more soon hint hint) and when you pop the hood you certainly get the look of a 1941 plymouth. Tim

My apologies to the forum, as it is obvious by the locking of my posts/threads, and those posting "likes" of that action that I have over stepped the boundaries or rules of the forum. As such I have asked the webmaster to unlock the thread in this forum so I can delete all of the posts or for the webmaster to delete the threads. Tim Kingsbury fargopickupking@yahoo.com

My apologies to the forum, as it is obvious by the locking of my posts/threads, and those posting "likes" of that action that I have over stepped the boundaries or rules of the forum. As such I have asked the webmaster to unlock the thread in this forum so I can delete all of the posts or for the webmaster to delete the threads. Tim Kingsbury fargopickupking@yahoo.com

Thanks Phil - I did get your message and I will call you this evening. I think our contact information is already out there, but it doesnt hurt to have it out there again. Tim

It might be easier to ask what do you want ? I am very sure we will have lots of intakes for anyone who wants one this spring. Dont wait 5 years and ask, but if we have your name and number we will call you when they are ready and make sure you get what you need. Sounds like I best try and solicit you to find some carbs for us. I best leave the scrap yard question for others who have been all over the forum. This evening definately works. I did get your message on my cell so I will give you a call around 7pm tonight if that works. If not I will leave a message. Thanks for your interest and I think we are leaning pretty heavy on having the intake have the ability for the truck people to mount the linkage to the intake. It will need to be located along the runner or log which is like the original intake, however the log is quite a bit higher than stock, but from what we can "mock up" it should be ok. But would love some feedback from you on your powerwagon or guys with trucks that may be interested. Tim

Hi Lloyd - Give George Asche a call - 814-354-2621 He will be happy to talk to you about overdrives and your needs. I believe your 1939 is a floor shift ? If so thats a pretty limited edition of overdrives. But give George a call. Feel free to tell him his 3rd son told you to call ! Tim

No problem and if you can George he can explain everything you need to know or come on by to have a look as on his 1929 desoto he runs both 6volt and 12volt systems. George is located in Fertigs, PA and the shop number (where Asche Mechanic run by Rob and George III) is 814-354-2621 and after work hours George can pick up that number in his house. Or you call the boys, they tell you to call back and they wont answer and the next time George will pick up. That is if he isnt over at the shop. He also has a full shop in his basement. Me, I am located in Campbelllville Ontario canada. My family arrived here in 1795 and I live on the original property, albiet am in a new house.. lol.. built in 1862 so while I am the 7th generation to live in the property I am only the 5th generation to live in this house. My cell number is 519-766-5695 and house number is 519-856-4576. I am basically 3 1/2 hours from my doors to Georges. Tim

Well we wont be able to ship until early 2015 and may be closer to spring. So I would say wait for now. But if I had to give you a total right now.. I would say pre-production price $540 for the intake and linkage for a car, with shipping on top of that. On exhaust, we can split your stock exhaust or take your stock exhaust and turn it into headers. $175 with you supplying the stock intake. Here are a couple of pictures of my 1949 plymouth.George took mine and made them into headers. Now my car is a 265 ci big block, but it is the same effect from an exhaust standpoint. Oh and it is lighter than the stock intakes and definately not heavier. Overdrive.. best bet is to find a 1952-56 plymouth 3 speed overdrive and send it to us to rebuild. Right now I think George has 4 or 5 guys on a waiting list as we cant find rebuildable core in number large enough to meet demand. On the bumper sticker.. I had them made and have it on the back of George;s and my motorhome. I think I have seen a guy in ebay since,selling both tshirts and bumper stickers. It isnt us, but its all good ! Tim

Ok Jeff, my misunderstanding. Yes we have puddled or been involved with puddling with the 2 barrel manifolds. Edmunds and custom ones. I will attach a picture of a three carb version using 2 barrel carbs. Cool yes, lag in the throttle, yes, but back to cool.... yes.. We have also tried side draft webers and made adapters. It was a bit of a linkage nightmare. To be honest we could just eliminate carbs and go right to fuel injection as well, but we are trying to make it period performance and cool. So I will remove you from the 2 barrel suggestion list and add you to the truck tab suggestion list.. lol.. As I add up the unoffical totals, I think between posts and emails we have 9 guys who suggest tabs, of those 2 that for sure want 1. Honestly that is pretty good for just over 24 hours. On the car side we have had around 50 people interested and 10 that definately want them. So it we get somewhere close to 10 guys definately wanting truck tabs, we will do it. Right now I am thinking after mocking up a couple of examples on trucks. Keep in mind out carb height is definately higher than stock. I think we can put one tab below the center of the "log" , make it larger and then also use that tab to put a serial number on it. I will attach a picture using a stock intake from a truck. Being it would be one large tab it will also give the option of drilling and tapping in several places as a couple of guys have suggested here on the forum. Tim

Ok.. sorry, that was me being thick as a brick I guess. Right now, the feedback we have been getting from the car guys is put the tabs on the outside as Edmunds did in his last version of the intake, even though traditionally I would have said - "car linkage on the inside (head side) and truck linkage on the outside". But thats not what I am hearing from the car guys. I do understand what you mean.. On the truck side, so far we have heard - there isnt a market as offey has it covered, - the offey doesnt cut it (llooses torque) do a dual - dont bother with a small block, make a big block (25 1/2" dual carb unit) - do a dual carb intake for 2 barrel carbs -do a triple for the small block like your AoK triple for the big block - do a dual, skip the water jacket -do a copy of the 1952-56 factory dual carb/dual exhaust intake for the big block But in the end, I am pleasantly surprised by the amount of feedback that has came in and very quickly. We are definately as I announced last night, going to do a dual carb intake for the cars. We have someone on it first thing tomorrow. I would say the jury is still out as to whether we add the tabs for the trucks. The car guys dont want them although they are not going to not buy one because they are there. We dont have to make a decision on the tabs for likely another 2 or 3 weeks. so we will see. Finally, this forum both the car and the truck side definately is the majority of where we are gathering information and from that was the decision to make it and will be to how it is made. So we are definately listening to everyone. Doesnt mean we can or would be interesting in incorporating what everyone suggests, but it definately has a major influence that I can assure you. Tim

Well we can definately supply you with one. Completely rebuilt for $150 & shipping. Edmunds did make a 2 x2 barrel intake. It was a flop but I do see them from time to time on Ebay. They have no tabs for truck linkage on them. I can likely dig up pictures of where we tried side draft webers. There was more of a lag in throttle response than I would have liked. In any case, your can buy adapters fairly inexpensive to bolt to a single barrel intake and then mounth a 2barrel carb on it. I did a quick peek and saw this one on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/stromberg-etc-2-barrel-carb-to-1-barrel-manifold-adapter-rat-rod-new-/131360716690?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e95b57792&vxp=mtr I have seen other ones although I just didnt see one tonight. Now if you want to see throttle response. Check out the carter ball and balls on my car ! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8y7yB5J7YNWI2Rnnvn8rig But in terms of developing a dual 2 barrel intake, it isnt in the cards for us. I dont see a market there, and you can as I mentioned always use adapters to put a 2 barrel carb on it. In fact I likely have a picture were we put dual 4barrel carbs on an intake, although it really looked cooler than it performed.

Here is the link to the thread where the dual belt pulleys were discussed. If you need some drop me a note . http://p15-d24.com/topic/34880-new-to-forum-1949-plymouth-business-coupe/page-6

Thanks.. Personally I think there pretty pricey, but we didnt want to do them in a lesser grade alunimum. We have seen what happens with vbelt pulley out of cheaper alunimum. Its one of the reasons belting changed over the years. I wanted to keep vbelts to be sort of period correct but was doing them for our own vehicles so I litterally got the best alunimum I could lay my hands on. So in the end, their expensive and there is definately not a lot of margin in there, but if someone wants a set, we did make a few extra sets.

yes as I mentioned on the truck forum, there will definately be linkage available for the intake. My best guess $125-$140. When - well... I will say early in the new year. I am hoping we have the core (center) mockup in the next couple of weeks. I will attach a picture of the core (in yellow) beside an edmunds triple intake. The a prototype by christmas. The triple took 22 weeks of work. Were hoping to cut that down to about 6-8 given we have so much of the research and work done from the AoK triple. I will try and keep the forum posted if there is interest ! The dual pulley, you can check out my previous posts for those. I made them so I could run a second belt for A/C. You could use it for power steering or whatever. We can provide them for you or anyone. They were not cheap, but the cost of the slabs of the Aircraft grade Gear Alunimum was the key to the price. The alternator my partner in crime's boys (Rob and George III) were so kind to do that one up for me. Rob and George III or as I call him G3 are often referred as my brothers from a different mother, took over George's business's - Asche Mechanic and Asche Mechanical distributors and they rebuild starters, generators, alternator and all kinds of similar stuff. So you could like call during business hours and say - hey can you build me an alternator like I saw on your brothers Tim Kingsbury's 1949 plymouth business coupe. I am sure after they stop giggling they can set you up with that or something mopar related if your switching to 12 volts. The "wiring to the carb" is the ignitor for the rocket fuel... tee hee.. ok I am just yanking your chain. That is the wiring to the kick down switch that is on the carb, that is connected through to the overdrive unit I have in the car. It is a 1952-56 overdrive unit which of course my buddy George Asche,the the king of mopar overdrive rebuilders did this one for me. AoK flatheads forever..that is a good suggestion. That is up there with the suggestion I made at the start, which in my case was just for fun. It was - "The surgeon general didnt say anything about smoking a Chevy" But your suggestion is actually one to toss into the mix of good ideas. Thanks for that. Tim

That is not a bad idea. There are 3 different car ones and 2 different truck ones, but they can all be accomidated with custom linkage with tab holes. I will attach the three versions of edmunds. With linkage bar on the inside, on the outside and none. From Offy, to Ellis, to tatterfield, etc dont have anything for any linkage rods. We have actually made stainless tabs that go under carbs that allow you to mount linkage in or out as well. But we could consider putting tabs, or dimples as you call them on both the inside and outside. They only need tapped as the linkage would run through them. Unless you mean the the truck dimples or nubs. I will attach a picture of that manifold. For most of the car guys they dont need them, and a lot would grind them off. That is why my question to the truck guys. We just were not sure if there is a market on the truck side. Its become very clear there is a market on the car side. Tim

Thanks for the compliment. Well my Dad when he was alive and George Asche have been at this since the late 40's - early 50's. Heavily into stock cars, drag racing and custom doing a lot of flathead stuff. George continues to make multi carb intakes, dual exhaust and headers from stock manifolds and incredible linkage. On the DTE - 1's... lol.. luckily there are lots of different carter ball and ball carbs we can use, but they are likely everything getting harder to find. It is only 4 or 35years ago I could go to swap meets and pickup 10-20 of them for $5 each. Now If your see 2 or 3 at a swap meet its a lot and I shake my head on what they want for them. But just so you have them.. here is my cheat sheet on carbs, complete with throttle bore and venturi sizes ! Tim Dodge 1937 – 1940 truck - etr1r (2 hole base) 1940 – 1948 cabover is a 6c1, 6c2, 6d1, 6dir, 6e1, 6f1, 6g1, 6m1 (updraft carb) 1941, 42, 46, 47 truck etr1r, b6s1, dta2, dtb1-dtb1r, dtb2-dtb2r, dtb3-dtb3r, etp2, etr1-etr1r 1942 – 1949 trucks – model dtc1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) or model ett1 (1 11/16 bore and 1 11/32 venturi) * 1946-1947 carbs with velocity governors – eyb1, eyb4, eyc1, eyc3, et1, et2, et4, e7b1, e7c1, e7f1, e7s1 * 1950-1954 ½ and ¾ ton and 1952 1 ton – dte1 and dte2 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) * 1950 – 1956 1 ½ - 3 ton – e7t1 and e7t2 (1 11/16 throttle bore 1 11/32 venturi) 1950-1954 cabover is 6n1 and 6n2 (updraft) ** 1952 2 ¾ - 4ton with dual carbureters – e7u1 and e7u2 1 11/16 throttle bore amd 1 11/32 venturi) * Dodge d46 and d47 – 1953 - model d6h2 1 – 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi * Same thing but with overdrive – model d6u1 (same bore and venturi) ** 1953-1956 2 ½ ton truck with 2 carbs – model e9k1 and 39y1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 265 ci motor carbs) *1953-1955 2 ¾ ton – 3 ½ ton or 1953-56 4 ton – model e9g1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) (this was the 331-377-413 big block motor with dual carbs) * 1953-1955 1 and 1 ½ ton truck (route van) e9h1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 331-377-413 big block – single carb) * 1954 d51 and d52 – e9n1 or e9t1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi)

Thanks for your note. Yes we will definately have stainless steel linkage available for them I dont have any good pictures handy of the linkage we (George Asche) has made for various intakes and applications. It is very nice high quality stuff. Guessing, it will be in the $125 - $140 range. But we will definately have linkage available.

thanks.. we appreciate it. its a little humbling to see the reaction we have had in the last week and since I posted we were moving forward I have had 10 emails already today. wow.. Plus a couple of guys wanting us to make triple carb intakes for the small block and dual carb intakes for the big block like our AoK triple. Right now I think we will just tackle the dual carb for the small block, but if 1/2 the guys who say they are really interested come through we will be fine. Tim

Hi Gene - On your 3:54 gears.. You can put that pumpkin right into your 1942 plymouth. What you need to change is the connection piece on your plymouth Pumpkin over to the chrysler pumpkin. 1937 - I think 1950 all interchangeable.. I think its 1953 they used a finer spline on the axles, but you will be ok. Your 49 chrysler, check the pumpkin as the gear ratio is marked on it, on the drive shaft side. In terms of being too tall, nah, not even remotely close. A stock 218 or 238 has all kinds of torque to utilize an overdrive and 3:54 rear end. A 250 bored out 60 thou, a fairly radical cam and an AoK triple, and too tall .. rofl, your issue is going to be burning the rubber off the tire. No worries you will be just fine. Tim