Take a warm tortilla, grilled onions, sharp cheese, and some sausage of your choosing, wrap it and dip in whatever sauce floats your boat. Easy, cheap, and gooooood!
I have electric wipers.
I want pics of original wiper arms as they sit on the truck.
I need the small nut that screws down below the wiper dash switch to hold the switch tight to the dash.
I need a two wiper arms and one wiper armature/post mount that goes from the motor through the cab where the arm attaches. The previous idiot (i meant owner) used a torch to get the arm off and in the process left me with no post to attach the wiper arm to.
thanks for any help
Ran into that problem with my PH. I searched the NAPA online site for a visual pic of one that would fit. It's tough without dimensions plus then you have to worry about displacement, bore, and stroke. I finally gave up, bought a 65 Falcon dual MC, fabricated a lever attaching to my brake pedal to reverse the direction, fabbed a bracket to mount the MC to the frame under the cab and it works great. Glad I did it.
I have been seeing a small bracket that looks like it supports the center of the tailgate. My truck did not come with one. Does it need it? Can I make one or does somebody have one?
I am glad you chose to ask us about rusty bolts, not your rusty nu**. I use PB blaster and leather gloves for when the breaker bar slips. It reduces the amount of blood I have to clean off of the floor.
I agree with rearview about checking the pedal return. If the rod cannot come back fully the brake system will remain pressurized. I had to fiddle with this a little when I built my custom dual chamber MC setup.
I have searched but cannot figure it out.
I have a 12v conversion. I have electric wipers.
Will the motor stand up to 12v (obviously spinning faster) or should I put in a Runtz voltage reducer?
I have converted to 12v.
My old heater switch was missing.
I appear to have an original blower motor.
Where can I get a swtich for my rig? Is there a generic NAPA# or something else I can use? Complete original is not a requirement (look at my sig line).
I hope you have some lead in the rear to keep it hooked up with the power you have under the hood.
It will be interesting to see a finished side profile of the truck with that short bed. I hope it looks great.
I think it will be cheaper and I don't have to deal with the chrome strips and all of the hardware. I will use the tongue and groove flooring, lay a thick layer of glue down and glue the joints. I will obviously need to replace it sometime but it will likely last a long time with the plywood substrate.
That's a good one......"Yes dear, the Ram guided us to this completely secluded, private, out of the way spot!"
Was that the same line that started things 42 years ago? If so, I guess it worked!!!
Since I wanted a tranny with OD and no double clutch shifting I went with the T5. If you do that you now have no E-brake. Also after listening to everyone and their adventures with servicing the rear drum I decided that I could get rear brakes with easy parts availability, higher axle ratio, and e-brake mechanisms built into the drums and keep the original wheel bolt pattern.
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.