Jeff Balazs

From : Wise Way Tuul Werks Magnificent Industrial City KaChing Province China To : Coatney Don USA Dear Coatney Don; Joyous greetings! Very pleased to copy. Many thanks for photo. Will make with very special tuul steel called Cheesium. Very good make many copies. Can ship in 2-3 day. How many container you want? Can engrave Coatney name and picture. Raffing on way to bank. Grandfather say "Americans easy mark ...... they buy anything" Send 2 more idea get free vacation to Great Wall. Signed: Whip Yu Off Tu (Grandson founder)

Honorable Grandson of Wise Way Tu say "the jokes on you".....and have I got a screw driver for you ..... Yankee.

So true.......

larry According to the manuals there should be 3 holes on the arm connected to the throttle shaft. They are there to adjust the accelerator pump linkage. The little link arm goes from there to the accelerator pump. I suppose it is possible that this has been bodged but it would not function properly if it has. I suggest you look closely at this. There should be a tiny clip holding the link arm in place. If you remove the clip you should be able to reposition the link to the proper hole. Hth Jeff

Good on you Ed! He looks just like his Dad too. It won't be long and they will be out in the shop helping their dad. Be sure and post photos when that starts. Jeff Keep a close eye on them though. A long time ago when my oldest daughter was about 5 she used to like helping me wash my truck. One time I had come in from the desert and she was "helping" me get the dirt off the truck when she started going on about scorpions. It was all pretty matter of fact. Because she was a very "imaginative" little thing I was not paying real close attention. We finished up and I took her in to mom to get ready for dinner. Walked back out to where the truck was parked and low and behold there was a 3" long yellow back scorpion not 2' away from where she had been standing in her bare feet. I learned might then and there to pay much closer attention to the subject matter coming out of her mouth.

Paul; I am sure we will help you all we can. There are already several threads here that talk about some of the specifics on the 3'4 ton trucks you should read through those. Main items that are specific include wheels, drums, running boards, some suspension components and of course the bed sides. Fwiw.......I think this model makes for the best combination of ride characteristics. Especially if you are going to stay relatively stock. The length of the wheelbase helps reduce rear wheel hop and it tracks very nicely. The stock spring packs are nice and supple when cleaned up and lubricated. Fit some decent gas charged shocks and perhaps a bit of weight in the rear and you are good to go. Have fun with it. Jeff

Larry; I just looked in the manual to see what they say about the Stromberg carbs and it indicates that there should be an arm on the throttle shaft with 3 holes in it for the linkage to the accelerator pump. The high altitude setting is the hole located closest to the throttle shaft. If the the connector link is not already in that hole you should move it there. Hth. Jeff

Hi Paul; I agree with the others....not too bad at all. Best piece of advice I can give you is that since it is a 3/4 ton you should concentrate on learning about the different parts that are related to this model. For example....the wheels and lug pattern and even the lugs themselves are specific to 3/4 ton trucks. Doesn't sound like that big a deal.....until you start searching for original replacement parts. Some items can be a bit of a chore to find. So you need to know exactly what you need and jump on it when it is available. Hth. Jeff

Dave; Wise Way Tu say "Man who jump to hasty conclusion ...... get tasty egg on face" I sure thought I found a clue there for a while. Jeff

Well I missed a note......the different number is for block assemblies not bare blocks. So much for that mystery. Jeff

Ok I was not paying attention to the possibility of an altitude difference. I suppose you have compensated for this altitude with the correct accelerator pump linkage setting ? Or is this vacuum controlled on the Strombergs? The Carter B & Bs have a specific settings as well as different jets for higher altitudes. I don't know if that is the case with your set up but I suspect it has some way to compensate. Jeff

I suppose Tim probably is correct........tracking numbers for the factory is about as good as an explanation as I can imagine. Makes Don Bunn's statement about these engines being purposely built for trucks all that more mystifying though. It is interesting to try to get a handle on all the many permutations that were created over the long production time. Especially when trying to decipher it all 60 years later. Some of it is pretty straightforward.......but then I come across a specific part number like 1122-511for a 230 bare block and I begin to wonder. Perhaps there is more to this than meets the eye? Why a different part number if it is exactly the same as a 218 block? Jeff

This brings up something that I have been puzzled by since I started learning about these engines a couple of years now. There are a few vague references to the idea that the engines used in the trucks were purpose built for the trucks. And then of course there is the engine numbering system that clearly denotes a truck engine from those produced for the cars. This has had me wondering what those differences might have been? Surely the most obvious one is the sump pan......but what are the other differences? Why develop and use an entirely separate engine numbering system for this very obvious but superficial difference? Unless there were some less visible differences to go along with it......??? I don't have enough experience with these engines or access to shop data to come up with any answers. But I did come up with something interesting about a potential difference between the 218 and the 230 engines. Looking through the Chrysler Industrial engine manual I found one notable difference in the fact that the original pistons used in the 6 & 6A engines (230's) were specified as Aluminum as opposed to Cast Iron as used in all the other models (218, 236 & 250) Again I am no expert but this would seem to imply that a different balance factor was employed for the 230's crankshaft. I started getting curious about all this when I discovered that the engine in my 52 was not the original engine. It is a T342 which would have been fitted into a 54-56 medium wt. truck. It is a 230 which I verified during a partial tear down. It is a bit interesting as it was mated to a fluid drive 4 speed in my truck and I doubt that it was fitted to one of these originally. I never tore it down far enough to determine exactly how this was accomplished.....or if it was just a simple factory bolt up. Jeff

Or #4 for that matter. You have a steady leak somewhere. I would bet at the distributor. If you want to test this you just need to plug this off. Easiest way without a good selection of fittings is to cut the hard line midway between the carb and distributor and cap off the carb side. If this shows an improvement you can leave it this way until you get around to fixing that diaphragm. Then all you have to do is put a flex line between the two ends and you are back in business as it should be. With the added benefit of being able to remove and or adjust the distributor with a little less effort than the stock single piece hard line. Jeff

If you do not have access to a vacuum gauge you could just block off the line from the base of the carburetor to the distributor and see how it runs like that. Also if you have vacuum type windshield wipers then that could be leaking too. Again just block it off and see how it runs. That connection should be on top of the intake manifold. Leaks like this can cause all sorts of problems with the way your truck will run......including popping and backfiring. Jeff

lalkie; Have you taken a vacuum reading with the engine running? Honestly this is a very good and inexpensive diagnostic tool. If the diaphragm is leaking and you don't want to replace it at the moment you could try blocking it off. It won't run perfectly but it will run better if you eliminate the vacuum leak. You may have a vacuum leak some where else as well. A bad vacuum leak will make your engine run very badly even if all else is well. Hth. Jeff

I wonder what Wise Way Tu would have to say about this yoke?

Mark & All; My comments here have been made to in an effort to underline the importance of having all the information in printed form in front of you. And to take the time to go through it and understand what we each have to start with. I have made these comments as I know all to well what can happen if we assume or make uninformed decisions. Believe me I have made plenty. Hopefully some of our new members will benefit from all this. I am certainly not trying to say you need to change anything or to belittle your work. I know you to be a very thorough and more than competent fellow. You are far more talented than I. Jeff

I agree once you know and understand what it is you have to work with. For some of us... myself included who don't have a life times experience working on these engines gaining this knowledge can take some time and real detective work. The very fact that they are all fairly similar in appearance and easily interchanged is often the thing that will trick one of us novice L6 mechanics into thinking we have one thing when in fact we have another. Not knowing exactly what we have can result in a lot of frustration when looking for parts or technical data. As I read through the posts in this forum I have noticed that there are several new members who like me are fairly new to these old mopar trucks. I have also seen where they have been advised to not bother with getting the printed manuals. Just go online and get what you need for free. I don't believe that this is very wise advice. It may work well if you are looking for a specific setting or procedure but I think it is a much better thing to have the printed manuals etc....and give them a good old fashioned read. There is all sorts of information in them that can prove useful to each owner as he get's deeper into his project. Again I think that it is very important to really know and understand what you actually have to work with. Jeff Mark I think it stands to reason the difference in power between these two engines is going to be noticeable. It is a matter of percentages. You can't look at it like you would a modern vehicle where 5 or 10 HP makes little or no difference. In one of these trucks you will feel the difference. Back in the 70's when I raced dirt bikes we all clamored for any gains we could get. You can believe me when I tell you that a 5% gain was very noticeable......and that would hold true with one of these trucks as well.

Just goes to show that Wise Way Tu is still alive and doing his job. Even if Mark had to get some egg foo yung on his face in the process. Mark is a very thorough and talented guy......and even he missed this. This should be a good lesson for those just starting out with their projects of the importance of a thorough review of all available documentation. Wherever possible a good read through the printed manual(s) is best. You are not likely to do that if all you do is look things up online. Having a printed copy and referring to it often you will see things you never even notice when staring at a computer screen. I was guilty of this practice early on in my project. After getting the egg on my face more than a few times I went back to basics which I knew would help. Get the best available books and read them. They are full of clues and information that may not seem relevant at first. You might be able to get what you need for some things online but I feel certain you will miss some important details along the way. These trucks are now 60 plus years old......and most are not exactly as they left the factory. Stuff has been changed or modified whether we know it or not. In order to put something like this back in order we sometimes have to play detective. Look for clues...keep our eyes open....and even listen to Wise Way Tu. The old "Ways" are still valid after all. Jeff

Mark I don't have access to a scanner at the moment........but your build card shows a T310 engine which is a 230. Do you have a different engine from what is on the build card? I can't say for certain how much difference it makes but I have a 54 230 in my 3/4 ton and it seems pretty peppy. Jeff

Mark; The first page in the B-3 series manual I have has a chart labelled "Serial Numbers and License Data". According to it your 1 ton should clearly have a 230. Jeff

Ah so! Say so on Serial number and license data chart in B series manual. Wise Way Tu never lie. He say start over restoration......truck not Job Rated. So Sorry.....

That Airflow is a gorgeous thing. I really like the color. Have fun Merle. Jeff

Well I hope you guy's....especially Merle..... don't think I was being critical. I know it is more pronounced with spur gears.....always would be. I just thought I would share the little trick I employed. I don't know if it would do much with the earlier spur type gearboxes but it sure works fine in mine. I worked for an old Ford dealership back in the early 70's. I worked in new car get ready. The used car lot was located a few miles away. No one in the new car dealership ever wanted to have anything to do with the crew at the used car lot. My boss always said it was best to check for your rings, wallet and watch when the used car manager was around. I do know they used to wipe all the cars down with ATF to enhance the shine. God only knows what some of their repairs were like. Jeff