38plymouth

I desperately need a radiator cap, bernbaums shows a part number of j-103 for 37-38 plymouth. Is there anywhere else to find one? I need one by this weekend. The local auto parts store don't show anything.

I got it all hooked up and it works great. I clamped the switch behind the dash so it's barely visible but I can still reach it easily. Now I have to find some front lights that I like and I'm going to add a small indicator light in an existing hole in the dash. I took the switch apart before putting it in and I found 2 wires that were never soldered on. I fixed them and it works good.

Thank you for the info. I'm running out to get the flasher this morning and then I'll start wiring. I'm hoping this goes smoothly.

I bought the foxton turn signal switch, it's the one with the green light on the end. I have a few questions about hooking it up. I'm putting it on a stock 6 volt neg. ground 38 plymouth. Does the switch need to be grounded? I'm thinking it should be grounded to the hose clamp that holds it in place. The orange wire is supposed to go to the stoplight switch. I found the side that has power when I step on the brakes. Do I just jump into that wire and leave the original wire still connected? I'm using the stock stop/tail lights for the rear signals. Do I hook into the tail light side or brake light side? Do I just tap into one of the wires or cut it and connect it directly to the switch (bypassing the original wire)? I don't have front lights picked out yet, will the rears work with the front unhooked? I read on here that the napa 535 flasher works well so I'll try to buy one tomorrow. I would really appreiate any help, I'm hoping to hook this up tomorrow afternoon.

I would like that one but I won't buy it from napa, I'm still searching online for one. Thanks for the info.

I used to work at my local napa and I know how their pricing system works. It rips off a regular customer. The only people that get fair prices from them are the dealerships because of the volume they buy. You wouldn't believe the layers of pricing they have depending on who the customer is.

I'm stuck home for a few weeks recovery from surgery. I'm trying to pass the beginning of recovery by ordering some parts. I need one of those universal turn signal switchs. I would prefer the plain back one that turns my taillights/brakelights into signals and I will be adding some type of antique looking front lights, I think I need the 7 wire?? I checked all of the local parts stores and the only one that can even order it is napa at a very high price. Should I just order on ebay?

I never did post a follow up on what I did with mine. I was looking at the pcv valve all wrong. I ended up buying a valve with a light spring that closed when the engine idled, it stopped the vaccuum leak and it idles perfect now. As soon as I rev the engine a little the valve opens when vacuum drops and it sucks the fumes away. It was definately worth the time to do and it didn't cause any problems at all.

I flushed the radiator out with water last night. It doesn't look clogged at all but there is some dark gray greasy crap on the cap and around the inside of the tube. There was some crap floating in there that flushed out. I filled it back up with just water. I also backed the timing of a little more. We took it for a 5 mile drive after letting it idle and it ran great, no overheating and no detonation. I plan to buy some radiator flush to clean it a little better before filling it back up with 50/50.

http://www.jordanny.com/Jordan%20Fall%20Festival%20~%20September%2021,%2022,%2023,%202007.htm Heres a link Sept. 19-21. We went last year without a car because we didn't know they had a car show there. They had alot of cars.

I think I'm going to retard the timing a little more again, when it's cooler out I don't have a problem. I didn't even notice the overflow tube running down the radiator right in front of my face. I'm also planning to flush the system and re-fill, it looks a little dirty in there. Do you mean Skaneateles? Thats only about 45 minutes from me. We are definately doing the Jordan Fall Festival this year.

I needed to add a gallon of water and I didn't lose any on the trip home. It was about 80 degrees yesterday. I'm wondering about the timing, I set it when I replaced the head. I can't remember where it's at but it wasn't detonating at all in cooler weather. It did notice something though. I removed the roaddraft tube and replace it with a pcv system. When I got home last night I could here air sucking thru the pcv valve at idle. It didn't do that before. I need to pull it and check it out. I'm wondering if that vacuum leak could cause a problem.

We took our 38 on a trip yesterday of about 60 miles each way. Most of it was on 45-55 mph roads but there was a section of interstate for about 15 miles that was a gradual uphill. It was also pretty warm out and I was driving between 60-65 to avoid being run over. I noticed the engine was detonating on the uphill sections. The engine started to get hot and it got up to 200 degrees for a little while. Once we got to our destination I checked the radiator and the top tank was almost empty. I filled it back up and we drove home without going on the interstate and the outside temp. was cooler. The car ran fine and didn't lose any water this time. Where does the water go when these get hot? I don't see any type of overflow hose or anything.

I'm not talking about a recent article, since this spring bear sightings have been happening everywhere between the Finger Lakes where I live and the suburbs of Syracuse. I know two people who had one in their yard in Camillus. In another year or two they are going to be everywhere.

You do know there are bear in and around Onondoga County right? It's been all over the news this year. The DEC is considering expanding the bear hunting zones because of the problem.

I need to use the rear brake lights. They are already dual element bulbs(brake/tails) though if that makes a difference.

I've been looking at all of the clamp on turn signal switches and I think they are all ugly and they would look out of place hose clamped to my steering column. Does anyone know if there is a way to use a toggle switch instead? I could easily hide it if it would work. I just don't know enough about how the signal switch works to figure out if I could do it.

I don't have any from parking lights, I'm either putting something behind the grill or maybe something inside the stock headlights. I haven't really figured that part out yet.

What local auto parts store would have the universal switch? I read on here they cost $20-25 at places like napa. I just left there and they want $85.

I'm doing a little research into adding signals to my car. I have dual element bulbs in the rear, tail light and brake light. They are not offset pin bulbs though. That shouldn't make a difference should it? I'm thinking the the brake light side is what would flash.

I do have the 6.00 X 16 tires and I think the gears are 4.11. I'll hook up my tach sometime and see what the RPM's are. I know when I hooked it up last week and revved the engine to 3,000 it sounded worse than my old 327 did at 6,000. The engine is in great shape and has only 43,000 original miles.

What kind of RPM's are you guys turning? My stock 38 with a 3 speed is screaming at 65-70. I cruise at 50-55 at the most, any more than that and it sounds like it's going to blow apart.

Even gov. employees are losing health benefits after retirement. I work in county law enforcement and we have a pretty good retirement package. I only have to work 20 years and I get half pay forever. It sounds great considering I could retire at the ripe old age of 43. The problem is everyone's getting rid of medical benefit's after retirement. We have been trying to negotiate medical with no luck, it's too expensive. The best I can hope for now is that I can get on my wife's insurance until we reach 65. I'd like to work part time for 10 more years after getting my 20 in and then retire completely.

I set it for a 6 cylinder engine and hooked the green wire to the coil, red to ground and black to 6 volts and it works perfect. I wish the tach looked older, it doesn't really fit with the car.

I can deal with that. Anybody knows exactly what years and makes these were used?