38plymouth

It's a humpback.

Do you have picture of them installed? I still don't understand how they work, they bolt behind my original headlight lens? Will they really show when the headlights are on?

I like Regs idea too, I just need to go find some now. I'm not doing this until later on in the winter while the car is put away so I have time to make up my mind and find something I like.

I still have the original headlights with the glass lens and small bulb inside. I really don't like the look of the big yellow lens on the front bumper, it seems so out of place. I know I could put something smaller on that wouldn't show much but then it wouldn't show up very well either. Does anyone know how these work? I don't even understand how or where they mount.....http://www.haganstreetrods.com/thcart/view.php?retid=LTS I was toying with the idea of putting them behind the grill but then they won't show from the side. I think I'm starting to settle on some kind of chrome or black light around 3 inches wide with a clear lens and a yellow bulb inside. I think the light wouldn't stand out as much with the clear lens. I don't know how bright they will be though.

When I did them on my 38 I bought them from Andy Bernbaum's, I couldn't find any local auto parts store that could even order them.

I'm in the planning stages of adding turn signals to my 38 plymouth. I want to make the rear signals flash inside the brake/tail lights. The front is giving me problems, I haven't seen or found anything to put on the front that doesn't look out of place. I want it to appear either original or installed a long time ago. I saw a few small lights that wouldn't show too much but then they won't be very bright. Anyone got any ideas of what to use? Pics of front signals would be great.

I have the same problems. I periodically wipe the glass on the inside because of the dust build up. Moisture has been a problem before and after my water seperator broke, I still haven't found a good replacement that will work. When my gun plugs with moist sand I pull the hose off the gun and shoot the air backwards through the line, it usually blows out the plugged up sand and starts working again. I usually blast away until I start having having problems and then quit for the day until things dry out.

It's your car to do with as you please. I wouldn't concern yourself with what somebody else thinks you should or shouldn't do to it. That picture of the car driving through the salt water makes me ill, I know what a NY winter can do to a car with all the roadsalt they dump. I can't imagine driving a car through that salt water on purpose. That thing is going to rust from the inside out. I would have left my car parked on the salt unattended for a month before I would have driven through that water. There are going to be alot of upset people in the future when the rust starts showing.

I'm figuring it's a long shot that the guy might even have one, but I figure since I'm there I might as well look.

One of my car buddies just found an old timer that is supposed to have a shop full of old cars and parts. He spoke with him on the phone about chevy parts and the guy told him he had all kinds of stuff in the shop and he would call him when it was ok to come by and look for what he needs. I'm planning to go with him so I can at least check out the cars and parts. I would like to pick up an overdrive trans. some day for my 38 plymouth and I figured while I was there maybe I might get lucky. What year mopars would have an overdrive and is there an easy way to tell if the trans. is really an overdrive? Will one bolt right in to my plymouth? I thought I read somewhere once that it won't fit tthru the frame or something.

Excuse my ignorance, how does that window air conditioner thing work? I've never seen one before.

I got the timing set last night and it runs great now. I set it according to the factory specs at 4 degrees and took it for a test drive. It still detonated so I pulled over and backed it off a little more. After two adjustments the detonation went away and it was running really nice. I checked the timing with a light at it is right at 0 now. I went and put 89 octane gas in instead of the usual 87 so I may try bumping it up a touch more. I checked the plugs I'm using in the head before I installed it to make they were the correct ones. On a side note I went to a car cruise last night with two friends. There were some nice musclecars and a few really nice street rods there. I was pretty surprised that our car was one of the most popular there, it's just a mostly stock 4 door. It was pretty cool.

The engine is the original 201. It has more power now and I think it will have more when I get the timing set right. My favorite part of doing this is the sounds of the dual exhaust, it sounds better than I ever imagined it could. I'm running a stock type champion plug but I can't think of the number right now.

I took the photo from the drivers side so the front of the car would be to the left of the picture. Right now then my timing is set around 6 degrees BTDC. I better go advance it then and get it closer to where it should be!

I'm sorry about the size of the picture, I can't post it larger for some reason. Is the top yellow arrow pointing at 0 then? Is the bottom arrow pointed at 4 degrees ATDC?

I can't really tell what the marks say, it looks look it says something like I/O in three spots near the longer lines. I'm really confused on where to set it and where 0 really is.

I'm going to try to make a cruise tonight and I'm still not sure I have my timing right. This is on my 38 with split exhaust and a fenton aluminum head. It was detonating really bad last week going up a hill with 4 people in it. I finally found the timing marks on the pulley and when I checked it with a light the mark was dead center of all the lines on the pulley. When I turned the distributer one way the engine sounded like a tin can with rocks in it. I turned it back the other way and got it to where I think 4 degrees ATDC is. I got that figure out of my manual. I attached photo showing my timing marks, is the top yellow arrow 0, would the blue arrow be 4 degrees? Should I leave the timing at 4 degrees or try it a little higher for better performance.

I don't really know about the ethanol I never paid attention to it, does it say on the pump?

Ever since I added a fenton head to my engine it has been detonating once in a while. I tried checking the timing and I can't locate the mark on the pulley no matter how hard I try so I really have no idea where my timing is. I did loosen the clamp and backed the timing down a bit for now. Last night I drove the car with 4 people in it and it was detonating really bad going up hills. I may just try higher octane gas but I would still like to make sure everything works in the distributer. The pictures in my manual are tough to see and I have no experience with a points style distributer. I want to check the vacuum advance and I have a vacuum pump, should I hook the pump up to the line that runs to the carb and then start the engione to see if it works or do you just watch it to see if it's working with the engine off?

Is it just a small line cut into the pully like most engines have? I can't see or feel anything there.

I noticed my engine was detonating the other day. I recently put on an aluminum head and I have never touched the timing since I got this car. My manual tells what the timing should be but not how to check it. I read a little on here about the subject and decided to try what I read. I hooked up my 12 volt timing light to a 12 volt battery and hooked up the light to what I "thought" was the number 1 cylinder. I used the front cylinder closest to the radiator. I couldn't see any timing mark on the pully but I can see the timing pointer. Am I on the number 1 cylinder? What on earth does the mark on the pully look like? I don't see anything on the pully and nothing showed up on the light. Please school me on how to check this so I can solve my detonation problem.

The rear is easy to lower, I'd have to put those in the engine compartment to get the front down where I want it.

Do you have any more info on how I would order these parts? Like specifically what model or year jeep I should look at. I'd be very interested in more.

I want it lowered so that it will look better. In my opinion these cars look awkward sitting as high as they do, lowering them a couple of inches make them look the way they should have been built in the first place. My goal is to make the car look and perform better without putting on new parts. I want the uneducated to look at it and think it came that way from the factory. Thats why I had an original exhaust manifold split instead of buying headers and why I put on an aluminum fenton head made in the 40's. Nobody who has seen it yet realized it wasn't 100% stock.

There is absolutely no room to put the axle on top of the springs, the axle would be pushing against the oil pan and frame rails. I did think about getting springs with more bow to them and doing this but then it looks like I would run into another problem. I think it's called the drag link, it would hit the springs if I flipped the axle. I still think if I got a spring pack made with less springs but still had the same weight holding abilities it would give me a couple of inches. There has to be at least 7 springs in this pack and they are about 4 inches thick. Maybe I should just get smaller tires and leave the suspension alone.