streamer

I got the yokes lined up perfectly and reinstalled the u-joint -- I can do it in ten minutes now! Started the truck and ran it up to 25 mph, big vibration and the rear axle is making noises like it has a bag of hammers inside. Took it off the stands and drove it down the road. Vibration starts at 25 mph and pretty much stops when she gets to 30 and above. I am now thinking of a rear axle swap and would like to use a more modern axle that will pretty much bolt right in. I did several searches, but I could not find a list of rear ends that bolt up to my '48. I noticed that you had some posts in a couple of the threads I read, so maybe you can steer me in the right direction. Thanks

I put the truck up on jack stands and ran it up to 25 mph in 3rd gear all of the "hop" seems to be at the front yoke. The universals have less tha 75 miles since new, but there is some up and down play as well as side to side. The rears are nice and tight with no play. I noticed that shaft sleeve yoke has been hammered in a couple of places and I don't remember having lined up any reference marks when I put it back together after the universal joint instalation. I guess I'll replace the front joint and look for reference marks on the drive shaft and the yoke. BTW when I ran it up to 25 mph the same vibration that happens on the road was there. Any other suggestions? Thanks

I just started driving my '48 after puting it all back together. It has new universal joints installed, but has a very bad vibration at 20 to 30 mph. Even with the clutch in or in neutral coasting the vibration is there -- less at higher speeds, but still too much. I tried rotating the drive shaft 180 degrees to make sure that the front and rear yokes were aligned, but the vibration is still bad. I also checked the motor mounts -- all good and all tight. I know there were some threads about this subject and I did do a search, but found very little information. Help is needed!! Thanks

It is Massey Fergason Gray -- available at Tractor supply -- nothing fancy, but it is what is used on tractors and is supposed to be very durable.

Thanks for all of your coments and additional information. When I bought this truck two years ago, I knew very little about these Dodge Pilot House trucks. The first thing I did before I started to work on it was join this forum, that was the best thing I could have done. If it were not for all the tech and general knowledge of all of you and your willingness to put up with and answer my questions, the truck would not have turned out nearly as well as it did. Here are three pics showing the result of your help -- finished. Thanks

The shop is just my barn that was turned into a place to work on the truck. If you look at the before picture you can see the box is hanging from a 1/2 ton chain fall which rides on the trolley rail bolted to the I-joists. I actually took the engine out using that system, but borrowed an engine hoist for the install of the rebuilt engine. As for the ride -- it goes great. The motor is strong with 50 lbs. of oil pressure at speed and 20 at idle when warmed up. The steering at this time is typical 1948, ie. it bump steers and wanders a bit. I am having the front end aligned and toe in checked on Tuesday and fully expect an improvement. Thanks

The on and off again restoration of my 1948 B1B ( see DPETCA album ) is nearing completion. Next it is time to hit the cruise nights and a couple of local car and truck shows.

I just finished priming my 48" B1B ( streamer 2nd page of the DPETCA album ) and I am wondering about the holes located at the inner back edge of the front fenders. I don't remember there being any rubber splash guard attached there when I took the fenders off, but it makes sense that there would be a slash gurad there to stop water and gunk from getting to the doors. Anyone have info on this?? Thanks

I also would like to get one of the calenders.

I have had my starter in and out of my B1B more than ten times. I found that the easiest way is to remove the floor boards and the gas pedal linkage, then you can simply use a 5/8 box wrench for the two starter bolts. You will not have to remove the oil filter or anything else in the engine bay. There may be better ways to do it, but that is what worked for me.

Is there another alternative to using the starter that is in my 48' B1B? It is the six volt with the push pedal. The previous owner changed the system to 12 volts and until the engine rebuild the starter would spin the engine very well, now with the new tight engine this starter died. It appears to be shorted out. If I put it on the bench and use jumper cables to try and make it run, it sparks once and then it will not even spark. I already took the switch off and cleaned up all the contact surfaces. I am going to get it rebuilt, but I am also open to other starters that will work. Any insight by all you experts would be greatly appreciated.

No, it is a three speed floor shift.

I have tried all of your suggesttions and no luck. Today I put the rear up on jack stands and ran the truck through the gears. Still cannot get her to go into first or reverse with out big time grinding -- I mean hit the gear shift hard and fast to get it into gear. Then I ran her up to 25 in second, shifted up to third to 35 pushed on the clutch and hit the brakes hard, still can't get into first or reverse. If I turn the engine off, put the trans in first or reverse push the clutch in an start the engine, the rear wheels do not turn until I let the clutch out to about 2/3 to the top. I checked the the throw out brearing and it is adjusted so that it is just off the pressure plate fingers. When the pedal is pushed in you can see the pressure plate move away from the disc about 1/2 to 3/4 in. ???

Thanks for the information. I went over to that forum and sure enough, the information on the timing cover leak is just what I needed. When I call the rebuilder my first question will be about those bolts and the use of sealant. I hope the bolts are the problem -- not the freeze plug. Now Jerry, what about my clutch problem??

FIRST drive since the rebuild - around the yard. Engine runs like a top, but I still have that coolant leak from the timeing cover. NEW problem -- I started the truck and when I tried to put it in 1st gear it ground the gears, same for reverse. Going into second or third does not grind. I know that the clutch is disengaging because when in first or revese with the clutch pushed in, the truck stops moving. I tried double clutching, but no good. I know that the clutch adjustment in right, because when running the throwout bearing is just off the pressure plate and not spinning. Any ideas on whats going on ?? Thanks

Good point. But either way I will have to remove the radiator etc. to get the bolts that hold the cover on. I tried the sealing tabs that the builder sent me and all the small weeps in the radiator core stopped leaking right away. Unfortunately the leak from the timeing cover did not, it actually got worse!!. The drips seem to be oozing out from the gasket at the very bottom of the cover. I will call the rebuilder on Tuesday to give him the good news. ANYONE out there know if in fact the cover bolts go into the water jacket?? Thanks

I found another coolant leak. It seems to be coming from the timeing cover. There must be a freeze plug in there that is weeping. I get about half a jigger of coolant in a 24 hr. period. I called the rebuilder and he had me check the oil to see if there was any water. The oil had changed color after about 15 minutes of run time, but I could not see any water. The change in color may have been from some of the grease etc. that was used during the rebuild. The rebuilder is sending me some GM coolant sealing tabs to see if that will stop the weeping. If that does not work, it looks like the motor will have to be pulled and go back to the shop, OR it looks like you could get the timeing cover off with the engine still in the truck. Remove radiator, support the engine, remove front motor mount, remove pulley, remove timeing cover and replace the freeze plug ?? Posssible??

Thanks, teflon tape it is.

I got her started and she runs like a Swiss watch. Oil pressure steady at 40 lbs at idle. That seems high so I will check the plunger on the relief vale to make sure it is not stuck. Only one thing to fix -- the two exhaust manifold bolts the are hidden under the intake, have drips of water coming out around the bolt heads. I assume they must thread into the water jacket. I now remember reading on here something about thread sealer for those two bolts. Could someone please tell me what type of sealer I need to use. Thanks

Dale, I would like the clutch cover that bolts to the bell housing. BTW, the oil pan worked out just great. The engine is back in the truck full of oil and waiting for me to fill the radiator and then turn her over. Thanks again.

I am in need of the bell housing clutch cover for my 48' B1B. If anyone has one for sale or knows where I can get one, please reply. Thanks

Where did you get the decals for the air cleaner and breather??

I just did what you are contemplating. I pulled the motor, had it rebuilt and installed it and the trans tonight. I have extensive pictures in the DPETCA gallery on the second page -- STREAMER. With a little planning, a rented engine hoist and a helper -- best to have one who knows more than you do -- you will be able to do it yourself and learn a great deal about your truck as a result. Good luck.

Depending on cost, I would be interested in the light rings and the tail gate hinges. Beautiful work.

Has anyone used the Duplicolor paint shop method? If you have, how did it come out? I will be painting my B1B soon and am still undicided which way to go. I am not looking for a show quality paint job as the truck will have some imperfections. I hope to have a nice clean looking " old truck " that people will be able to touch and lean on. I know that black shows imperfections, but it is going to be black and will have white lettering that would have been found on my father's bussines trucks when he had a plumbing, heating and electrical contracting company called -- DUMAIS BROS. Thanks