streamer

I just changed my throw out bearing and I was able to simply tap it off with a light hammer. Give it a try.

Thanks, I'll pick one up in the morning.

Thnaks for all the "oil" info. The install will be next Weds. and start up by next Friday.

Thanks, I will definately blow out the oil lines before the install.

Yes, both valves were closed. Thanks for the information about starting where the rotor is pointing -- that's what I tought. How about that gasket - I don't remember seeing one on the distributor shaft of my parts motor, but I definately found part of one when I went to install the one for this motor today.

Does anyone know where I can get the fiberous gasket that goes on the distributor shaft where it enters the block?? Also, I just got my engine back from the rebuilder and I have almost all of the parts back on it. I turned the crank to get the # 1 cylinder to TDC then slid the distributor in to check the to see if the rotor lines up at 7 oclock. It lines up at 10 oclock?? So I guess when I put the plug wires on I should put the #1 in the cap at the 10 oclock position and continue around the cap from there. Right?? Thanks

This is a question for all you guys that have had rebuilt engines. What oil should I use for the first 300 miles?? What oil is everyone using in their engines once the break in period is done? Thanks

Thanks for the information. I got the plunger out, cleaned it up and put it all back in. As I said this spring is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the one in the picture so I guess I'll just have to see what the oil pressure is after I get the motor installed and running.

I just got my engine back from the rebuilder and he somehow lost the oil pressure spring and the threaded cover. I have another plunger, spring and cover from a 218 parts motor. I tried to put the plunger into the hole and found that the original plunger is still in there. I have tried to get it out - with no luck. It moves back and forth about 1/2 inch, but gets stuck at that point. I searched the forum for ways to get it out and will try those in the AM. What I would like to know is the length of the spring. The one I have is just about 1 3/4 inches. Also if the plunger moves back and forth 1/2 inch, is that enough for it to work properly?? Thanks

I removed the upper and middle floor boards --maybe fifteen screws and then had plenty of room to slide them off.

I just took the engine out of my 48' B1B and it took a total of about 4 hours. I had all the front body parts off, took off the battery ground wire, undid the drive shaft from the three speed transmission, removed the two long floor boards, removed the brake and clutch peddles, unbolted the master cylinder and wire tied it to the frame, unhooked all the control cables and fuel lines, supproted the the trans. and unbolted it from the bellhousing, remove all the bolts from the motor mounts and as you lift her out slide, the trans back off the engine. This was the first time I ever removed an engine, except for VWs, and it was not to bad. I did have a helper who was very knowledgeable. Once out of the truck and resting on an old truck tire, I removed the clutch, starter, bellhousing, flywheel etc. Once on an engine stand I removed all the other parts down to the block and then off to the rebuilder. Good luck, if I can do it anyone can!!

I just want to thank Dale for getting me the front sump oil pan I had been looking for. I can now get the rebuilt engine back and installed. Thanks, Dale.

Thanks to both of you for your reply. I am fairly new to this forum and was not aware of the information available to me concerning salvage yards or the Power Wagon site. With the information provided by both of you I should be able to get the pan I need. I thank you both very much and it just goes to show how important this site is to us newbie pilot house owners.

I have been searching for a front sump oil pan for a 218 23" block engine. No luck so far, however I do have a line on a 25" block front sump oil pan. Does anyone know it I can cut 2" out of that pan, weld it back together and have it fit my 23". Anyone done that??

My 218 is at the rebuilder being refreshed. It will be ready to put back together and install in a couple of weeks. I desperately need a front sump oil pan for it. Any help locating one would be greatly appreciated. Thnaks

Thanks for your help, I hope to hear from you soon.

I am still looking for that oil pan. Does anyone know if an oil pan from a 25" block will fit the 23" block? Someone had one from a 25" canadien truck engine, but I did not think it would fit. Any after market oil pans for the 218 - 230?? Thanks

I just pulled the engine from my 48' B1B - it is a 53' Plymouth 218. Compression in all cylinders was 110 to 115 Lbs., so I was hoping the bottom end would be OK -- no such luck. When I removed the oil pand there was at least two inches of sludge caked in the bottom. The # 1 and # 2 connecting rod bearings are loose enough for me to move up and down with my hands. I guess I know why the engine was knocking. I have started to look for an engine rebuilder. Unfortunately for me here in northern NH there is not an engine rebuilding shop on every other corner. Local shop wanted $ 4000.00 + -- Precision Motor Rebuilders wants $1895.00 and $500.00 for shipping. Jasper wants $ 3750.00. How do these prices sound to you guys that have had rebuilds?? Does anyone out there know of a rebuilder in NH? Thanks.

Anyone??

I have a 48' B1B with a 53' Plymouth 218 engine, the oil pan is backwards as compared to the truck engine i.e. the drain plug is at the back. The previous owner dented in the oil pan at the rear to make room for the steering. I would like to know if a truck oil pan will bolt to this engine and put the drain out in front of the axel. If so, does anyone have an oil pan for sale or know where one can be found? Thanks

Hey Wally, I to am from NH -- the Lakes Region. I have a 48' B1B. Maybe we will meet at some of the cruise nights in the area. Good luck with your truck.

thanks for the quick reply.

I have been away for a few days and today I the truck album and it was not there!! Anyone know how to access it??

I rebuilt mine. You can see what I did in the album section where my 48 B1B is posted. Dave D.

I am rebuilding a 48' B1B which is now in the album section. I have a knock and low oil pressure - less than 20 pounds - I am going to drop the pan and check the mains and the rod bearings. I am wondering if the bearings will have the size marked on them so I will know what size to order. I am assuming that if they are the original bearings, there will be no markings. If they are replacements the oversize will be marked on them -- right??