White Spyder

Pulled the starter, what a PIA. Turns out that both bushings needed replacement and the rebuilder repaired the electrical contacts in the solenoid. They went through it and cleaned it up. Now the spend a couple hours getting it back in.

When you say ring gear, do you mean on the flywheel or on the starter? If on the flywheel I should be able to drop it into gear and push the car a bit to move the alignment of the starter and flywheel.

I had my starter rebuilt about a year and a half ago. Today went to start my car and it turned as it should for about 10 seconds. On the next attempt I heard the bendix engage and then a whirring sound. Tried again with the same results. I thought it might be the battery. But it had 6.8 volts. When I got my wife to engage the starter while I watched under the hood, the engine turned extremely slowly by observing the fan. Both cables to the battery were very warm. I took the battery to O’Reilly‘s and had it load tested and it checks out good. Any thoughts of where I should start testing the starter?

To respond to some of the above comments. My 48 is original no swapped differential. Does anyone have an idea about the size of the drain plug on the bottom? None of my ratchet's fit.

So, I checked out the rear end of my ‘48, she didn’t mind. More importantly neither did my wife. Here are two photos. The first looking toward the front of the car. There is only one plug. The second is looking toward the rear of the car. There are two. Which is the drain and which is the fill and why the extra?

Check this too. There should be a pin with a cotter key here. This is what happened to me. Fixing it is a PIA. If this is your issue, PM me for fourth details.

Lucky you. I have the oil filter mounted in such a way that it blocks access to that plug. What a PIA it was to change. I had to remove the filter and the lines. Then there was no roon to drive the plug into place with a drift and hamer. Bought an air hammer to get the job done.

Add Mississippi to the list. Not only did I find a good one to pass inspection (required by the law) I found one for the county I live in.

For reference though.

With the above in mind and condition of the engine, might be best to look at swapping to a more modern engine and Transmission. That will give you the 12v, overdrive and more ponies. The option for a/c is also available.

More than likely for the sission choke and the other for the fluid drive system.

SteveR, thanks for the diagram. Sniper, it was not until I read your post that I kept missing that the key needed to be on to sound the horns.. several others mentioned it but I missed it. With the key on the jumper from the green wire to the relay, the horns blew. Pulled the center ring and fund the wire only hanging on by a couple of strands of copper. All is working as it should now.

Car is still 6 volt positive ground. 1948 Chrysler Windsor. Jumping the green wire to the ground on the battery gets only a click at the relay, no horns. That green wire goes to terminal "S" on the relay.

In the photo below, I have unplugged the wire from the column and jumped the green wire to terminal S on the relay with no sounding of the horns. This bypasses any question of the horn ring on the steering wheel. Something else in not right.