QEC

At 75 I often wonder just how many projects I have left in me. I know that I am moving alot slower these days and during the Winter it is hard to get motivated on ugly days but, the brain is still pondering the 'what-ifs'. I think I'll finish up putting a 354 Hemi in my old work truck (79 W150 that I bought new) and then stare some more at a 48 Chrysler sedan that really needs some modern power. Someone mentioned using a Lexus v-8 and using one of the modern factory hot-rod engines has some appeal. Kinda like the 60's all over again.

There are some old threads detailing the quite unique shifter and, IIRC, someone had a sketch about building one. Start searching...

There are several old threads with varying amounts of detail for this swap but IDK if there is/was a comprehensive list. Start reading and taking notes. I think Charlie is still making front disc kits; olddaddy@rustyhope.com

The difference between 4 bolt PLY wheels and everything else is the 0.185" offset required by the crankshaft flange projection: 1" on the 208-218 vs 1.185 on everything else including the V8. This is the problem the late Don C ran into with the starter issue. Greg must have a lucky rabbits foot.......

...where is that Hollander manual...?

The leaning tower of power has been gone for awhile now and parts supplies will get thinner each year. The Jeep 4.2 (N/A) ot the efi 4.0 are excellent platforms. Obviously, the LA engines are a good choice simply due to the massive parts inventory available.

If your plans include a post-64 trans you will lose the parking brake. Yes, it is possible to change out the old backing plates and such and use later parts to gain the p-brake but an Explorer or Cherokee rear axle is fairly easy to install. Either swap now or when you do the LA but at least start looking.

Photos, we need photos....now!!!🤔 Seriously, I'd like to see the project.

Your 38 has a narrow front end so the engine fitment issues will be what clears the hood sides. An inline is likely a better choice. I'd look at the AMC 258 or later Jeep 4.2/4.0 Plenty of the Jeeps around, not so much the 258. You could also look at something like the Taurus SHO v-6. It is a fairly compact Yamaha design but, again, not plentiful these days. Maybe stroll through your local Pick-n-pull and see what your tape measure has to say about the affair.

Perhaps a fender washer would work for what you are doing. A better choice would be to buy a countersink if only for this one job. Yes, the manufacturer should physically check that particular fitment before ever sending it out the door as it would be an easy correction. The thickness of the fender washer will reduce the engagement of the bearing retainer by that amount. I would also suggest that you check the adapter centerline against the crank. The front bearing does not like parallel mis-alignment.

Be VERY careful with FB. There are probably more scammers than real advertisers. DO NOT advance any money, you will most likely lose it.

Bummer.

The 230 will require a 230 flywheel, do not use the 218 wheel. There is a difference of 0.185" in the offset that starters will not like.

Reaching inside of a nut with your stinger can be a challenge. I start with laying a heavy 3/16" washer on the deck and welding that to the stub. More room to work the weld. Then I add a large nut to the washer and you can weld that from the perimeter. YRMY

Yes, the front bearing retainer registers the transmission input shaft to align with the crankshaft. This 'adapter', as it is called, is simply a flat plate with no registration to the bell housing, only the countersunk screws. The front bearing retainer is not fat enough to reach through the plate and register to the original bell. MaMopar is very particular about parallel mis-alignment. In fact, there is a section in the 60's & 70's FSM, and no I haven't looked throughout the various years, that specifically deals with aligning the bell to the block and includes part numbers for offset dowels to accomplish the task. Ma says the TIR needs to be less than 0.007". Threaded holes are simply not placed that accurately. That is why we have dowel pins to between block and bell. Will it work? No doubt that the parts will bolt up. Will it damage the front bearing? Very likely. Will the OP care as long as he gets a few miles out of it? Dunno. And NO, I do not make/sell them. Never have. My point is that this is not a proper trans adapter but, rather, a bolt pattern changer. Why does my ME brain care? Just not easy to ignore no matter how detailed the computer generated drawing is. GIGO.