1941Rick

All you have to do to clear the radio is turn the motor down 90' on the bracket. Cleared my radio with ease.

the car went to Courtenay.....not far away

Yes the 383 uses twice that of the 218.....but you gotta pay to play

68 Plymouth Sport Satellite....383 auto, slight improvement over the 218

The time has come to move along...I have sold the 41 P12 and purchased a 68 B Body.....I have enjoyed coming to this site for the banter and the information that I have gleaned here....I will still come around and visit from the sidelines...... Take care all.

Good luck, have a great trip.....

Heater motor 6V running on 12 V thru a resistor R10 O/D 6V components running on 12V Changed all bulbs to 12V Changed wiper from Vacum to 12V electric Changed coil to 12V with a ballast resistor, so still 6V Alternator bracket was simple, used the gen bracket with slight mods starter 6V running on 12V Now can use modern components....stereo.....gps.....electronic mopar ignition. Not as much work as you would think, Like James 20000 miles and no issues with the remaining 6V parts.

My question is...why not just change the light bulbs and run the whole car 12 volts....much cleaner and less hasstle. you want cranking power, push 12 volts into a 6 volt starter. starting problems seem to dis-appear.

Why complicate things with 2 6volt batteries and switches to charge....if its an issue just convert to12 volts. A lot easier....just change the gen to an alternator and change the bulbs.. Put a resistor in the heater circuit.

Picked mine up at a swap meet for 5 bucks...keep looking but they are getting rare......controller fromMopar performance will cost another 50 bucks I have the orange controler that is good for 7000 rpm........if ever lol

Not really a lot of work to convert if you have any mechanical back round....my coverstion only took a couple of hours total. you have to make the parts from inside your distributor fit the slant six dizzy. never skips a beat. bonus.....parts are availible at most auto parts stores, if you ever need them.

Cooling systems are designed to only cool 10 to 15 degrees. They will always feel hot. They maintain a temp in relationship to the thermostat. Loads on the engine will raise the temp, but as soon as the load is off the temp should come back to your normal.

I have a 160 thermostat and she runs 170 all day and all night regardless of the outside temps. On long pulls it will go to 180/190 ish, and cool right off after the pull. What temp thermostat are you running?

Will be a nice project. Added flavour when you have some history along with it.

The scarebird installation requires a small nub ground off the GM caliper....no biggie. the only extra I did was drill and tap the Ford disc so it could be held to the old hub. That way it would not hang loose when the wheel is off.

The scarebird installation requires a small nub ground off the GM caliper....no biggie. the only extra I did was drill and tap the Ford disc so it could be held to the old hub. That way it would not hang loose when the wheel is off.

To bad you did not live on the west coast...I have a split bench from a 41 B/Coupe....like new

I pulled the champion trigger a couple of years ago after a $700 quote to recore....never any regrets.

where ever there is a will there is a way.....

If you are going to have the car judged at a high end show you will have to spend the big bucks and get the rad recored. If you want to drive it put in another rad...... You are getting a lot of advice how to clean the one in the car right now......I laugh at some of the advice.....Shade tree advice. Just look at the age of the rad....its time

Just cut the elbow off with a hacksaw then use a hose with the correct bend.....nothing to serious

A car is only worth what you are willing to pay for it.....if you and the seller are happy with the price that is the value.

Water wetter is not acure. If you are over heating you must find the problem. Just because some racers use it does not give it credability. They run alcohol because it runs cooler, do you switch to alcohol.....would guess not. Get your hand on an infared temp probe. 10 to 50 bucks all over the place. Check the head at the temp probe and compare to your gauge, check the thermostat housing on both sides of the thermostat. If you start with a cold engine you can actually see when the thermostat opens. Then to the radiator. check the temps of the core all over the place. you can see the flow of hot water from to to bottom. The temp at the top should not be more than 10 to 15 hotter than the temp at the outlet. If the temp is greater then that, the water is staying in the rad to long, if it is cooler the thermostat is open to long. One thing about flushing rads....you never get the calcium build up out of the cores.even if you take it to a rad shop. If it is plugged it is plugged. Cures in a can do not cure the problem as much as mask them. Until you can say with certaintly this is the problem it is just guess work. You will get all kinds of opinions here but only good old trouble shooting and an understanding of how things works will get results. I have had the same problems on my 41. It is cured, required a new rad......runs 170 all day long in all temp conditions....from parades to desert crossings Good Luck

If you have a good rad sitting there, swap it....if the one in the car is original it may be the problem.

Or Italian vehicles.....