martybose

Maybe it works that way at low speeds. At higher speeds the base of the windshield actually becomes a high pressure area, and the air flow would be into the open rear edge of the hood and out the bottom. Marty

Maybe if you gave us a clue of what car you're working on, you might get a better answer. Marty

On my car even with the eccentrics all of the way in I still had positive camber on one side and zero camber on the other, so I had the pressed steel arms shortened by 1/2" so that I could get at least zero on both sides with the possibility of negative camber if I wanted it. Later on I found that I could have accomplished the same by just bending the spindle itself, but I had already done the upper arm mods. Marty

No pictures, sorry. My mechanic was a ex-funny car racer that I hung around for 20-someodd years, and is a very talented fabricator. When I told him what I was thinking about he made a fixture that locked down one end of the arm and had a movable section for the other end with a dial indicator on it. He found a section of the arm that was parallel, cut it and fit it back together, tig-welded it back together, then reinforced it until he was satisfied. He did this maybe 10 years ago. Since then he retired and moved about a thousand miles, so I'm sure he doesn't have the fixture anymore. Marty

I'm using dropped spindles with stock springs, running 6x15 steelies with 205/60x15 tires. I did slightly shorten the upper arm to allow for a better range of camber adjustments. Marty

Actually the only suspension problem I have now is the fact that the front suspension works real well, while the rear suspension still sort of floats, so I need to find a stiffer rear shock to balance things out. Marty

Ride-wise it is a significant improvement. Handling, what handling?? At least compared to my commute car, a lowered and stiffened Honda Civic, my 47 doesn't handle well at all, and I'm just fine with that! Marty

It's always amusing reading these threads. The SF Bay area is going into a heat wave next week, with highs of 93F predicted for San Francisco and up to 107F farther inland where my wife's horse is boarded. I'm sure I'll be hearing about her daily trips to feed and exercise the beast, and I'll have a few sleepless nights in my non-air conditioned home, which is comfortable 99% of the rest of the year. Marty

Norm, You do realize that if the vacuum advance is hooked up to ported vacuum then it will have no advance at closed throttle,making it more prone to backfire ....... Marty, who uses manifold vacuum on his dual carb setup

I did the same thing with the Rhode Island harness set I purchased for my 47. I actually had them make half a dozen changes to the basic harness, ranging from adding turn signal wiring and single-wire alternator changes to adding headlight relays with larger gauge wiring to the headlight bulbs. I was very pleased with the ease that it went into the car. Marty

That's only true if you can make the assumption that all power brakes have built-in residual valves, which I seriously doubt. Marty

It literally varies by the knob in question. Some have a setscrew in the bottom, one or two have a spring steel clip that you push down, slide on and then release, and several are molded on the cable end and can't be removed at all. Which one(s) are you asking about? Marty

Bought my Business Coupe in 1995; it was a bone stocker then. The original plan was to hotrod it with a Mopar V-8, but then I found out how mellow it was to drive a car that (relative to everything else I have driven) doesn't accelerate, stop, or handle corners well; I just sit back and cruise on. Sold all my V-8 stuff, bought a 230 to build in my spare time, then found an overdrive, an aluminum head, an Edmunds manifold, etc. etc. No regrets at all about how it turned out, even though I still have a long to-do list that I keep adding to. Marty

As many of you know, I work in a shipyard. ALL of our steel is blasted with either sand or steel shot to give it a profile that paint will stick to. We usually put on a weldable primer immediately afterward, then cut and fit it, weld them in and then do final coatings (up to 5 coats in some cases). Marty

Oh, I don't know about that, Don. Having met you in person, I'd say you have ample substance! Marty

I too ran a 5th Avenue 6V negative ground alternator for several years until I had a reason to switch to 12V negative ground. 1. The only gauge that read backward was the ammeter, and the instructions told you to switch the wiring on the back of the gauge to fix it. 2. My original radio worked just fine on 6V negative ground. The only time you would have a problem is if it was rebuilt with an electronic vibrator, since they are polarity sensitive. Marty

Where are you located? If you are nearby, I've got a 6V Optima that I'll give you. It hasn't been used in a while, but was in excellent condition when I changed to 12V. Marty

Since they are flat glass, any good glass shop should be able to make them for you. Just use your old one's as patterns. Marty

I've got a Rhode Island harness in my 47, and I'm very pleased with it. Nonetheless, at least one of the harnesses that I bought from them may have been an exact duplicate of what was on some Mopar, but it wasn't mine! I wound up cutting the sleeve off of the harness and used the individual wires to make up something that fit my car. Marty

If you've got a oil pressure relief valve on the pump, I'm assuming yours is a HyDrive-equipped car, since most cars like this have the valve in the block. You say it moves freely, but did you take the spring out and check it? You could have broken the spring, which would have the effect you mention. You want to be careful about replacement pumps, since none of them have this valve; you would have to change the cover plate to make it correct. Other than that, I can't think of anything short of rather catastrophic that would cause a sudden drop. Marty

I haven't seen Langdon's air cleaners, so can't tell. My current setup uses a gasket that is more of a spacer, since it is made out of 3/8" sheet rubber, then a flat base made out of 1/8" steel, which also retains the pins in question. Then a pair of 6" diameter 2" tall K&N filters and an O'Brien Trucking cover. No progress on the rejetting, as the Weber tunings books were on backorder everywhere until earlier this week, so I haven't received it yet. Marty

Well, if my calibrated eye is working, you are about to have a problem on your rear carb that is a great annoyance. It looks like the pin that goes through the casting to hold the bridge that the filter stud screws into has pulled out enough to release the back side of the bridge. The problem is that there isn't anything to stop the pin from sliding out; apparently it was up to the air cleaner base to block it. You will need to find a way to prevent it moving, or it will come out; I fought it for a year (once I figured it out) and finally came up with a different air cleaner base to prevent it. Marty

I don't think there is much need for a high volume pump. As many of you know, my oiling system was modified to eliminate the stock crossover pipe by going external from the pump, through a full flow filter and an external oil pressure valve, and putting oil back into the hole that used to have the pressure relief valve (after blocking off some extra holes in the block). When I first fired up this motor I was getting over 100 pounds of pressure at a fast idle, measured at the standard location at the back of the oil galley. I quickly turned down the external regulator, thereby bypassing more oil back into the oil pan, and now see 50-60 pounds of pressure while driving and hot, and a worse case of15-20 pounds hot at idle using 15w-40 oil. So the stock pump has plenty of volume for our application. Marty

I doubt you'll like the price, but here's a link to a local (to me, at least) outfit that continues to make this type of tire changer. http://www.rogerkrausracing.net/Tire_Machine.html Marty

The bolt pattern is 5 x 4-1/2", which is the same as most contemporary Fords and late model Mopars. Marty