sorensen_dk

Just want to mention I got the correct set from Steele Rubber but that was more than a decade ago. They now only stock the front mount it appears.

Just an idea: have you considered matching up your bushings with later model polyurethane type bushings?

Very cool the '39 DeSoto. On a couple of occasions I've had a ticking sound that turned out to be dry/loose fan belt. Your engine does seem to shake a bit at idle. While you're at it check the engine mounts; they tend to collapse with age - two at the rear and one up front. They are not too difficult to replace if you already have the floor pan out. Tom

Recently another member had huge problems getting his engine running....have a look at this thread - packed with god info: http://p15-d24.com/topic/36010-new-guy-with-1950-desoto-starting-issue/ Apparently his timing was way off. I would suspect timing issue if engine does not fire at all. Tom

According to my Ply handbook all engines '46-'54 were 217.8 cui, '55 was first 230 cui Plymouth. They had same bore though so the block might be correct. T.

On youtube: Tom

It seems like you have too many unknowns at the moment. In your case I would return to square one and have the distributor properly bench tested at a competent auto electric shop. I once had my distributor tested; the shop guy was surprised how well it performed way beyond the red-line of a flathead. Tom

Hi Wilf, Long thread......just a couple of comments: 1/ Your wet compression numbers look odd having zero improvement and #1 is even worse. Did you get oil into the cylinders? 2/ How is your battery doing? You may not have enough voltage on the coil while cranking the engine. I would hook up the coil directly to a separate battery to make sure you have prime spark. 3/ As Don Coatney pointed it's essential to get at least get the static timing right. 4/ Some times what we say is not what we do. You might snap some video sequences of the trouble shooting and post them. Hope you succeed, Tom

Enjoy this survivor (although engine was replaced) - sounds amazing: (1) (2) (3) Tom

For the record.....it would very interesting if someone had photos or brochures showing a dual carb/exhaust Dodge truck chassis with the entire exhaust system exposed. I'm sure the Chrysler engineers had a cost effective configuration worked out. Tom

Have you noticed the drainage hole to the front in the recessed part (below the gasked) that ends in a small tube thing? It should be extended with a piece of hose going through the firewall. Water will never get into the car even if the gasket is less that perfect. At least this is how it works on a '38. Best, Tom

Disturbing facts indeed. I stand corrected. Tom

Wow, did you lose the bolts on the pulley? My point being the fan blades are not separately riveted to a hub.

I would like to offer a couple more observations on the fan topic. By pure coincidence, I noticed that the fan pulley on my T236 engine (Canadian) measured an almost one inch smaller diameter than than the original D8 engine pulley. Smaller diameter means higher speed and consequently more fan noise. Switching to original pulley and fan lowered the noise significantly. At 55 mph the improvement was huge. I also ran the engine without fan but I feel that going with the original setup (large pulley) there is not much gained. I know larger pulley means slower circulation in the block, but that's how it was designed anyway. So, look out for pulley size. BTW: the original 4 bladed fan is made from two peaces of stamped metal bolted to the pulley so the fan blades can never "take off".

This book came with one of my cars. Covers sixes and early V8s. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Chrysler-Built-Owners-Handbook-Floyd-Clymer-Dodge-Desoto-1955-/270962960289 I found it very useful as you can cross reference a lot of specs for models up until 1955. Many things are explained a little differently than in the original shop manual, in some cases actually better. I recommend it.

From what I read (not from experience) start out cold. If it fouls it's too cold. In one engine I run Autolite A9. Have Champion C12CY in another. Comparing the two physically the Autolite is hotter than the Champion. As I recall my dad always ran A7s. That would be my choice to get the engine running. And don't forget to gap the plugs before installing. Tom

I did as Rich Hartung describes but only removed the fanbelt up front. I remember having to shorten the upper bolts of the front mount a bit due to clearance problems as engine was raised to the max. Getting the old one out was not a problem since it was completely flattened. I used engine mounts from Steele front and back. Tom

OK, added a link for your convenience: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160834305029?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D160834305029%26_rdc%3D1

This salvage yard (or rather the contents) for sale on ebay was discussed on another forum: #160834305029 A few mopars. Price seems.....far out. Just poking around in the yard (and inside) would be an experience. Tom

Scotty, be nice

Rebuilder said..... I've been there, nothing more frustrating. Time to find another shop. How were you referred? Hope it's only a valve issue and that you get it sorted out. Tom

If it ain't broke, don't fix it! If you already have a strong runner I see no point in replacing anything. And how fresh is freshly rebuilt and who did the rebuild? Any documentation? If the price IS right, and you have the storage (i.e. not a damp rotten barn) I would pickle (interesting term) the rebuilt engine and keep it as a backup. Tom

That was a VERY rude response to a very polite suggestion. Reading your original post leaves me with the impression you have no idea what you are doing. I'm sure your dump-rod will soon turn up on ebay among all the others.

Bill, in your last post I really think you are contradicting yourself. You state that "the overhead valve Chevy engine is/was the best overall designed engine of the period in question." Then later: "Chevy engines were infamous for having leaking rear mains and bad rod bearings.. Ergo "Babbit pounders"." Unless you mean that the shortcomings were not a design feature, in which case I am curious as to how you would define engine design. Respectfully, Tom

Thanks for facts and stories. As mentioned each brand has it's followers for various, possibly irrational, reasons. I'm quite sure the V8 previously only found in in higher priced cars combined with the great (I have to admit) styling of the Fords must have been very compelling. Those 30s Fords look sharp. Maybe this combination is what Tim Adams calls CULT.