ggdad1951

let us know how good/quality it is!

from one of my previous lives where we built fluid pumps, I'd have to say the turbine style impeller should be much more effcient at moving fluids as more blades are in contact with the fluid during rotation. I'd expect a better flow with the turbine version vs. two flange version. Now of coarse there is always how much less volume is availalbe to move with the more complex turbine taking up the volume space being moved...and I was told there would be no math here....don't make me do calc again!

Turkey huh? Odd!

it will, in fact, I'm thinking I'm going to swap mine out! Was that just a new impeller from NAPA (or someplace else) or a whole new pump?

ok, I'm TRYING to get the rubber insulators in that I got from Roberts, but the dang things are too big! I've tried the soap, I've tried the "warm them up" and they just bunch up...I'm about ready to shave them down a tich with a razor knife. Also when I took them apart there was a rubber washer and a metal "t" washer that was stuck in the bottom between the lower insulator and the retainer (note, this is NOT the "T" washer welded to the retainer). NONE of these parts are in the parts book.... HELP? also from the assembly in the parts book, it shows the bolt that holds this all together coming from the bottom, would it not be better to have it go down JIC the nut comes loose/off?

depending on the sizes you can also get them from the powerwagon site like i did....$39 a pop new.

hell, that camper is cool!

I'm at the 4.3 because I am trying to do a full resto of the truck, and yes, that means 45MPH might be top end.

what do you guys think a fair price would be for a ring and pinion gear from a 4.3 rear end that are in "near perfect condition"? Would it be smart to get all the internals or are those two enough? thanks

how do you guys run auctions here on the site?

I'd be interested as well

that's about what I paid for my books.

welcome! Good place to be!

better, I have PICTURES!

so they make the kings more vertical then? That makes sense....now to find some.....

my old high school car got a second horn added by me for the two tone sound and yes, I can understand the desire to keep them!

does anyone have a better assembly picture of the front and rear springs and the associated parts? My parts manual isn't the same as the parts I took off my truck. I've got these odd wedge shaped spacers on the front springs between the spring and axle and none of the spacers/seats (17-11-34/17-15-4 respectively) as shown on the rear spring set assembly as shown in the parts manual.

with a strong enough magnet and a "feel" you can tell the difference between 304 and 316 as well. My first job outa college we had a welder who taught me that trick.

where does this bad boy "live"? I can't quite make out the plates.

wow, even with my corporate discount, that is spendy!

thanks guys, using the existing studs. Plan on heading to Tractor Supply for some grade 8 bolts for the rest of the project (as was my intent). Pictures soon of parts back together!

Sorry, might be using the wrong terms here, but the differetial gear set/housing bolts to the rear axle housing via studs that live in the rear axle housing. They are 7/16-14 into the housing and 7/16-20 for nuts/lock washers to hold the gear set housing on. Does that make sense now?

ok, starting to put things back TOGETHER tomorrow. I have a question tho, my friend who is helping REALLY wants me to replace the reaf diff mounting bolts on the rear axle housing. I'll be getting a couple from a member here to replace several damaged ones I have. But he insists I should replace all of them w/ new. I'm a firm believer if it ain't broke..... For the fun question: if I were to replace them, where to buy them? I have had NO luck finding any online anywhere....