Uncle-Pekka

Hi Gregg, Thanks for your reply and apologies for the delay in my response; The lady driver is Miss Hasselberg by the original caption. I do not know anything, but obviously she was the daughter of the swedish business man, who commissioned the build of the race car. Unfortunately I do not know much of the race either; supposing it was an early road race at the time when there were no speed limits, nor much traffic in Finland. There were two classes for participants; "Amateur class" (where ms. H. drove) and "Master class" where were also locally famous drivers. Mr. Ebb, who later on won several Scandinavian GP races too part with a Mercedes SSK. The roads were dirt roads for the most part, but also black top and brick paved in the towns. I suppose it was interesting race to drive... I also posted this photo here in Finland and some of the viewers expressed doubts that the car would not be Plymouth PB nor any other US make... The car is strikingly low and the body looks like channeled over the frame. However there was information that the car really was build using mostly Plymouth parts and a bit older Chrysler six engine. It was registered as 1932 Plymouth and raced in Finland and Sweden in the early 30's. It looks very professionally built for racing purpose. Lower that the car in George Ashe's garage. Apart the body itself, there are also other neat details, such as full wheel cover plates over the wooden spoke rims.

Long time, no see... I've been driving my D24, but not much working on it lately, thus been silent here for a couple of years. Just recently I came across the below old photo, taken in July 1932 in Helsinki, Finland; It shows a racer, built based on 1932 Plymouth PB in Finland or Sweden in early 1932. The lady standing beside of the car took part in Helsinki-Hanko road race "novice-class" in the very day the photo was taken. Later, in 1933 the car was sold to Sweden. I assume it was yet used in several competitions in Sweden and Finland in early 30's. Have anyone seen Plymouth or Dodge bodied like this one?

A fellow has a beautiful 1938 DeSoto S5 business coupe, but is lacking some interior & trim parts. For the most, he'd need to find the glove box door and the lock - see attached ref.pic. Anyone who could help him out, please? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka

Good luck saving the big block six, Paul. Me & my Granpa did the same some 40+yrs back - He was collecting scrap iron for charity using his big rig. One day he called me & my dad saying he picked a ford model a four banger with a big lot of scrap. We gathered same amount of scrap and "traded in" for the ford engine.

I wish I would knew this ^ when the DNV inspector complained about the play... As said, I noticed the old bushing appeared to be as good as the new one only when I could compare them side by side on my desk. Further, when having the parts apart, I also begun to think there is no way that structure could wear loose considering the low miles we've put on the clock. Thank you James for the written "manufacturer's testimonial".

Thanks Andy, - That is a good idea - I certainly will take the parts with me to inspection, just for sure. Jack, Yes, I was talking/doing the outer bushing. #3062 in the pic. is /are the inner link bushings. Cheers, Pekka

Thank you Andy for the practical tip. Funny, but I only read this after having done one side already during the day. However, I ended up doing exactly the way you recommended. When I looked at the new parts, I figured the position of the eccetric bushing must be set the same as has worked for me for the past years, thus I made a mark by punch nail before taking the bushing apart. When I had the new & old cleaned, side by side on the board, I made the mark on the same/corresponding position on the new bushing, etc. In the end of the day, unfortunately, I came to doubt, was my effort any good... See, I did not find any play or wear in the old bushing! The "DNV" inspector told me he found play in the upper control arm bushing and wrote a recommendation to replace them. After taking the parts apart, cleaning and measuring - more so by re-assembling and seeing the structure all through - I cannot understand how this bushing could wear enough to produce any significant play on the suspension movements...

Thanks for the answer - and the safety points. Further; Is there any way to (even roughly) adjust the camber angle without special tools? -after having replaced the eccentric bushing. Any practical tips for home garage to adjust the front wheel angles?

...can it be done without removing the upper control arm (and the entire steering knuckle support assembly!)? What about the spring? - Does it need any further support/compression but the car resting on lower control arm (on a jack)? What I am asking; Is it a)possible, b)safe, just to remove the upper arm outer pin, tilting the steering knuckle support outwards and pull the bushing off, install new bushing and dust seals and finally the pin again? - all of it done while the car is supported on a jack under the lower control arm spring seat. (the below pic. is not dodge, but close enough... ignore the part numbers)

I've seen doors converted to "suicide" in some "kustom builts", but to convert only one side must be some practical reason? Not just for looks? ...just out of curiosity.

Is this a std. feature or a custom made?

Here's my testimony. Driving alone along the coastal route "the Seven Bridges Road" from my home town Kokkola towards Jakobstad. August 2018.

^ It appears to be an implement for single person transportation, made in Japan.

Old downdraft carburetors commonly leak at the butterfly valve shaft. As the Carter BB has brass shaft on steel throttle body, the shaft wears thin. It does not help to rebuild the sealings & jets if the throttle valve shaft leaks. Where can I get new shaft to replace a worn one? What is included in Bernbaum P-102 kit? - Only gaskets & jets? Any more?

I'd LOVE to have that tuff doodlebug for my snowplow up here north! A snowplow does not need cabin nor windows, heck , them would only be steamed inside & frost up outside. Good thick woolen pullover, knit cap and fur coat is what keeps man warm not to forget woolen socks and heavy leather boots. Cabins are for sissies. p.s. Only issue I can see, the plow plate itself is tiny... especially it is not tall enough in vertical direction. You cannot do much with a low small "bar" like that... However, the main thing, the engine is loaded with torque - the plow is easy to fix.

Excuse me being a foreigner, I came to doubt my english skills... By the 1st paragraph I thought I understand the principle of "the dollar bill test", the exhaust should not blow & suck, but just blow the fumes out - Ok? However, in the last quoted sentence you state that your healthy smooth running engine does not pass the test - Sorry I'm confused, what you mean to say?

The listing says "based on 1929 model A" and even "used 1929 model A ford", however, looking at the photos I cannot spot one single part that would come from model A ford. Looks like someone has build "home made" on a chevelle chassis - not my cup of tea. Worms, termites and woodpeckers can have it all I care...

What about this? - Quite a fleet there?

Another desperate attemp; the text said "Oct. 1941, Little Falls, NY" 3x Dodge trucks - the best looking trucks of all times, IMO.

Let me try to guide this thread back to track (as pink panter cartoon is not "interesting photo..." to me... IMHO) The following may neither be interesting to all of you, but hopefully to some of you... Is that a special bodied 1948 Packard as a taxi cab in foreground? At least two of DeSoto taxi cabs around...

Sigh... I so wish we'd still have salvage yards like that here as well... In the 60's & 70's when I was kid they were around. Been almost 40 years when they started to clean up & close them up. Boy that process was fast. Today I don't know any to get any salvage parts, never mind new or old models, none. Back in 70's shopping for used car parts at salvage yard could be economical, useful & FUN all the same time!

Hi 49wind - Did you mentioned, that your ampere meter was "clicking"? I've noticed that it does clicking noises (and whips needle from zero to full) if there's a short circuit somewhere in the system. Notice, that there are no fuses for starter, generator nor for the lights. Check all the wiring and replace every suspicious cable. The ones for courtesy lights are the hardest to follow. Unfortunately they are also most prone for short circuit by loosing insulative cover, because they run between the roof and head liner where it gets very hot due the sun.

Congratulations for the awesome find, Monsieur Adrian! I like the 1942 C the best of all 40's Mopars, it has clean design, the best looking front end and the coolest brightwork. The 40's Mopars drive as good as any 50's US car and the flathead engines are reliable as work horse. Grab it, enjoy it, and keep us posted! The P15-D24 forum is the best web page for any informatio or advise you possible will ever need. Welcome to our crowd!

Mouth watering Mopars, indeed! Great collection. Would be very interesting auction to attend.