meadowbrook

Cowl vent is closed and the seal is new.

Hello guys. My Meadowbrook leaks some water on the floor below the center dash in heavy rain. When I got the car, it had some silicone smeared around the windshield edges, so I suspect the leak is not a new issue. How would one remove the windshield? It looks like I would need to remove an internal metal garnish that is screwed on inside the car. But how does one remove the chrome frames outside and then is the glass bonded to the body or is it just contained by the rubber seal? My experience with this is on my VW which is basically a rubber seal with a groove for the glass on its ID and another groove for the car's body on its OD. And I assume the actual glass is just laminated flat sheet? Both of mine are chipped so I might replace them and I assume any glass maker can cut me some new pieces.

Great project and I love the flat black color. On the 10w, I found that the non major auto parts stores are more likely to have it than Napa, Autozone, eats.

It's an old argument that will never end. My '50 has the original engine and it did not look as bad as yours when I pulled the pan. I cleaned it and ran 1/2 detergent and 1/2 non for 1 oil change interval and have used Valvoline 20W50 VR1 Racing oil (for the zinc, another endless argument ) for a year now, changing every 3000 miles. I have a bypass filter. So far no horrors. I imagine my vehicle had whatever oil was available throughout its life and being I bought it from the original owner, I think as detergent oil became available, he just used it. I guess in your case, why not just clean the pan and keep using non det. Or you can take a risk and start using det oil and at worst, you will need a rebuild sooner . I'll let you folks know if I start having issues.

Interestingly, my 50 Meadowbrook with the integrated turn signal just pops off the emblem.

You just hand pull the ornament from the wheel. Not the ring, but the center chrome piece that holds the dodge symbol then you can see the bolts that hold the ring and the big nut that holds the wheel.

Speaking of ignition, just had the pleasure of filing the VW's points flat and tuning the engine for the season. Was kind of therapeutic. Will do the Dodge next, if needed. I know Bosch point are hard tungsten and thus are filable. Are the Mopar ones throwaway or also filable, if needed?

My Dodge still has 6v pos gnd, no resistors needed

My d34 also needs a long crank to start after sitting a while. But I am thinking this is a good thing, assuming the battery is fully charged. I noticed that in these situations, the long crank builds up my oil pressure prior to the engine firing up. Isn't that better than subjecting all those moving parts to combustion pressures with no oil pressure?

I have an ECI Kit on my D34 and it has worked beautifully. I did not have to cut a hole on the floor, I can fill it from below. But then again, I do have a hoist. My MC has the lines on the passenger side though. And it is a Ford one.

For what it's worth, for my 1950 D34, which is still 6V positive ground, I used a sender from a mid 70's Jeep CJ5, which is 12 V neg gnd and it works fine. I wired it the same was as factory. Senders don't care about positive or negative ground.

Mine is all rust colored. I also avoid dirt roads like the plague.

But back to the steering. My D34 came with a loose steering but I carefully adjusted it and now it is pretty darn near perfect. The only issue is that it is a beast to turn with the car not moving, but excellent once I am moving with no tight spots, no roughness and little friction, it self returns to the straight ahead position after cornering beautifully.

Bernbaum has been mostly ok with me with a few horrible parts. But they were very willing to take returns and give full refunds, no arguments. I have had that experience with points and turn signal flasher.

Typical dealer 'service'.

Great, keep me posted and we can make arrangements to convoy either to the cruise or the museum. Though I have a Dodge, I'd like to see the DeSoto meet. Some car, right?

I can tell you I have a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook, which has fluid drive and had a standard 3 speed. My R7 overdrive was a 99% bolt on deal. Only modification aside from routing the control cable was to get a longer speedometer cable and figure out a method to activate the kickdown solenoid. Same driveshaft.

Hi folks! Delighted we had our 1st rain after this winter so now I can start driving the '50 Meadowbrook again. :) I have purchased the required parts for a PCV installation and am looking for tips on tuning the vehicle. As I understand, the PCV is adding a small vaccum leak at the intake so I will likely need to play with the carb some, can folks respond to the questions I have below? Thanks in advance! 1- I believe I will need to richen the idle mixture screw, but will a main jet increase (or any other carb part change) be required? The carb is a Carter BB 1 barrel. 2- Will the existing hole used for the vaccum wipers suffice for the PCV line? Thanks ! BTW anyone on the list live near Ann Arbor? Maybe we can meet.

I replace the engine mounts in my 50 Meadowbrook found that you feel a lot more engine vibrations through a new mount than through the original ones.

My Meadowbrook has vaccum wipers. Do those combination vaccum/fuel pumps work in keeping the wipers moving even at high throttle?

Welcome, this is indeed one of the best forums I have ever been part of. I have a 1950 Meadowbrook, which is basically your car with 4 doors, so let me know of any issues. I have done the following with mine, since acquiring it for $1 3 years ago. - Replaced the 3 speed with an R7 overdrive (best modification I have ever done). - Replaced all brake lines, shoes and fuel lines. - Fixed the original AM tube radio and added an Ipod input jack. - Added a 6V tach. - Repaired the vaccum windscreen wipers. - Mounted radial tyres with white walls. - Reupholstered the front bench seat and recarpeted the interior - Added shoulder front seat belts. - Added a center high mounted brake light behind the rear window. - Maintained it as a 6 volt positive ground system. - Re- covered the engine compartment wiring with heat shrink or electrical tape. - Replaced the battery cables with new 0 gauge cloth covered reproductions. - Fixed the original clock. - Added a 12V inverter and a hidden socket to power GPS, cell phone, etc.

My 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook with an r7 overdrive will run all day at 70 mph, with no shimmy and straight as an arrow, with my westach tach reading about 2800 rpm. My engine is not only stock, but never rebuilt with 80,000 miles. While not at its prime, with 100 psi on 5 cylinders and 85 psi on the 6th from a compression test, she does not smoke, runs at about 45 psi oil pressure and if I do decide to keep under 55, I even average 22 mpg. It is still 6 volts, has the original radiator and never overheats. Completely useful. I have done 75 to 80 for about 30 minutes and no issues, but I try not to be too hard on her.

Cool!

It may take a while for oil pressure to build by cranking engine with starter. I started my 50 Dodge after 12 years of slumber by rebuilding carb, pulling plugs, changing oil, soaking cylinders with oil draining and refilling tank. It started after a long crank and some valves were stuck but progressively loosened the longer the engine ran. You could tell as each cylinder started firing when it's valves got unstuck as the engine got smoother and smoother. I then had to rebuild the carb again because the fresh gas mixed with solid crap in the tank and contaminated the carb again to the point it would not start again. I had to replace the tank as the old one was also very rusty.

So which year did the stock 230 have the most power? I mean my 50 has 103 hp, didn't it go up to some 130 hp before they dropped it? What were the changes? Are those parts available? Was it just a cam and compression?