Merle Coggins

It appears to be in phase in the picture. I agree though, an out of phase driveshaft can cause a nasty vibration. Merle

What's your voltage going into the motor? It's possible that your resistor is dropping the voltage more than 6 volts.

That's VERY tempting. But I too am without space for it. It's only about 50 miles away too. Merle

I remember all the complaints about the Robert's ones a while back, so when I saw one come up on ebay from Mitchell I bought it. I had to stretch it slightly, but it seems right. I just glued it in last weekend and the vent has been holding it down all week. I'll have to open it back up to see how it holds. As for the brackets at the end of the arm... They should pivot some, but mine were fairly tight too. Try a little penatrating oil and see if they'll work loose. Just be gentle, you don't want to get them bent out of shape. Merle

I reused 1 and had to make 1. The 1 was rusted pretty bad and I ended up twisting one end off trying to get the fitting loose. the other one was still in good shape so it got reused. Otherwise everything else was new like aforests.

That new line appears to have a bubble flare instead of a 45 degree inverted double flare. I suspect that you got a metric line.

Does it try to start and get tight right away, or will it not even try to start? Maybe there's a ding on the starter thread. Merle

I believe 3/16" is correct. Not sure why it won't screw into your cylinders. I had to make one for my truck too. I remember making the bends for that line was a bit tricky. Just be patient and don't try to force it. You also may have to shorten your 12" line. Do you have a flaring tool?

No such thing as a stupid question. They are the same diameter. The original sockets only had 1 wire for a single filiment bulb and the lock tabs are set up for bulbs with the pins directly across from one another (non-indexed bulbs) The new sockets have 2 wires (plus a tab for a ground wire if needed) and are set up for indexed bulbes (pins ofset from one another). An 1154 bulb is a dual filiment, indexed bulb for 6 volt and these are what I plan on using. The sockets are listed for 1157 bulbs, which are dual filiment, indexed bulbs for 12 volt. The base is identical between the two bulbs.

You must be running 12 volts. I've not been able to find amber 6 volt bulbs.

He is 51 Fargo! and you are just 51 Fargo I agree, that could be rather confussing.

Looks more like a Redneck condo complex than a mansion.

I found the perfect upgrade pieces to convert the front parking lamps into dual filiment park/turn lamps. I stopped at my local Checker Auto Parts yesterday to browse their rack of sockets. This is what I found. Then, thinking that the sockets in the lamp assemblies may be soldered in, I heated them up with a hand held propane torch until I saw beads of solder. Then tapped them out with a hammer. The popped right out. Once I cleaned up the residual solder, the new ones dropped right into the same holes. New ones got soldered in and the assemblies were repainted. They appear to be a direct replacement without any major modifications to the lamp housing. Merle

I have a '50 3/4 ton with Fluid Drive and a 4 speed trans. So apparently they were available both ways. I think Fluid Drive was also available in the 1 tons starting in '50. The Truck-O-Matic started in '53, as I recall from Don Bunn's book. And to finish answering the question... the 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks use the 218 even with Fluid Drive. The 1 Ton would have a 230. Merle

What is the wattage of the lamps? There's a simple formula to figure out the amperage draw. Watts = Volts X Amps, or Amps = Watts / Volts. Example, if you have 2 - 35 watt lights, your total wattage is 70 watts. 70 / 6 = 11.7 Amps. In this example a 15 Amp fuse would be perfect.

I thought maybe it was this line that brought him out of the closet.

Come on Norm, if you're gonna tease Don with fuzzy dice, do it right.

my '06 Furd F150 specs 5W-20 semi synthetic. I believe most car manufacturers are now specing that viscosity of oil. And I believe you are correct in assuming it has something to do with fuel economy. Merle

Good advice from these guys. I just wanted to add a couple of things. When you pull out all of the core plugs to flush the block, you may also want to remove the drain petcock on the left side so that you can get as much out as possible. You'll probably gat a lot of crap out of the water jacket. That seems to be normal. When installing the new plugs I'd use some type of sealant around the outer edge. I use Permatex #9 Tack and Seal. #2 Permatex (the brown snotty stuff) would also work well. I'd stay away from RTV silicone, It may work OK, I just don't like it for that application. (that's just my opinion) Carefully tap the pluggs into the hole, with the domed side facing out, until they seat against the ridge at the back of the hole. To set the plugs I've used a couple of methods depending on how accessable they are. If you try to smack them directly with a hammer it's easy to miss the middle and they won't set properly. I will either set the ball side of a ball-peen hammer against the center of the plug, then hit the hammer with another hammer. Or I've also used a brass drift or punch with a very blunt end, set against the center of the plug and smack it with a hammer. The idea here is to dimple the center of the plug which will try to flatten it out and make it fit tightly into the block. Good luck, sounds like you're on the right track. Merle

The U.S. built trucks used the 218 in the 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks and the 230 was used in the 1 ton trucks. The larger trucks had various displacements of the longer block. Merle

My guess would be for the screw in the cover, to seal it up. Merle

U.S. 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks had 218's. 1 tons had 230's. Larger trucks used the long block engines in many different displacements.

If I were you, I'd contact John (A.K.A. 46mopar) from this forum. He may even chime in on this one too. He has a 440 in a D24 and may have some insite for you as to how tight the fit is. How much bigger is the RB Hemi block than the B block? Merle

T306 should be '51-'53 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks. Would be a 218 CID engine. Merle

Looks cool. Johnny Depp is in Wisconsin right now doing a movie. They've been in Columbus recently shooting scenes at the court house, because it has a very historic look. I've heard from some people that have been near there and it sounds like fun. I don't know exactly what the movie story is, but from what I've heard, it's supposed to be set back a few decades. Also... has anyone else seen the Smuckers Jam comercials with the very nice red 39 - 47 Dodge flat bed truck in the background? Looks very nice.