Barabbas

I have an "Evolution" cover, bought it for about $300. The car is always outside and gets a fair amount of rain, high winds and a little snow but no heavy sun ( live in the Olympic peninsula of Wash). The cover is 3 years old and on it's last legs. The seams are starting to unravel and the top cover seems to be getting a little brittle. It will probably make it thru this winter but I will need something else by this time next year---- I will be trying a different brand

Here's My 52 Cranbrook--taken yesterday at La Push Beach

the oil-less compressors have a teflon ring that typically starts to wear out after about 100 hours of use. Replacing the ring is pretty straight forward; if this is a Craftsman, Devilbiss, Dewalt or Porter Cable unit you should be able to find replacement parts at Sears Mike

Count me in--I'll proudly put it on my P23 (just keep the flathead reference)

Oops--I missed the donate part too

Alex, I have one--I just put a O/D in my 52 Cranbrook and have the old 3 speed. It had no problems and shifted smoothly. PM me and let's see if we can work it out--- Mike

Ya, I'm talking old school--stand on the moving hay wagon, hook the bale, stack the bale; go into the loft and stack some more-all done in 90+ degrees and high humidty. Later in life, when I felt bored and and confined sitting in an office, I would say to myself--at least I'm not bailing hay.

I grew up near De Kalb Ill (home of the the "Flying Ear"). Detasseling was the primary income for anyone under 18--it is hard, sweaty dirty work...you earn your money. I preferred to bail hay

I was raised Mopar--51 Plymouth, 57 plymouth Wagon, 62 Belvidere wagon and on. When I was 16 my Dad paid $75 for a 52 Cambridge "barn" special for my older sister and I to share. It had a good interior but badly oxidized paint with plenty of pigeon deposits. It also ran really rough at first--so my Dad and I measured the compression and discovered a blown head gasket. "Change it" he said--he told me the bolt tightening patern and walked away. Now I had never used a socket set up to that point in my life--so I was a little intimidated--but a few hours later she was running great. So it was nostagalia that made me choose my 52 Cranbrook---makes me smile every time I drive it

Thanks Johnny, first time I've seen this pamphlet----Knowledge is power, now if I can only find a way to get it to my rear wheels

Took me three tries L head Flat head Flathead I was starting to get a little nervous that I wouldn't get into the "club"

Fixed the problem, it was embarrassing simple. Just had to reroute the cable-the original routing had no obvious kinks but was over constrained with tie downs. I changed the routing and eliminated most of the tie downs and everything works fine. This is the first time I worked with the shielded steel cables--they are more sensitive to routing than I had thought

Here's mine

On Mine the visor clamps into the water channel going around the door. I can get pics if you want

return spring sounds like a good idea , but then I should probably get a locking handle so it won't creep into free wheeling when I don't want it. Wire O/D makes sense too--I saw on a Studebaker site that people had found some .08 dia wire, and ideas where I could find some that dia

My O/D works great --except that the cable to activate the O/D really is binding up. At first I had to really pull to disengage the O/O, Now it disengages easily but won't reengage. I got the car up on jack stands and found that the lever moves pretty easily so I guess the issue is in the cable or routing. Right now the cable comes out the hole in the with the shielded ignition wire and then arcs down to the sheath on the brake cable. The final cable hold down is on an arm supplied by George Asche that is right next to the solenoid. The cable is new and there is no sign of rust on the inner wire-- what is the best way to route and secure the cable and/or is there something else I should be looking at?

Yep, every time I attempt a new project. Funny thing is, I know that eventually I will get it right--may take a couple of iterations but I will get it right--- still there is that apprehension just before I tryout my latest "improvement"

The O/D is in and running fine--almost. The govenor doesn't work, but I have a manual switch to override. I had her out over the weekend-about 250 mile trip. She runs quiet now at 65 and is able to keep up with the big boys Young Ed was right, the broken mounting ear wasn't needed-so no harm no foul. Fed EX took just a week to send me a check to cover the broken Govenor and solenoid. The solenoid is in and I will be ordering a new Gov from George. In the end all I lost was a little time--now I'm looking forward to longer road trips

You Finally got it running! Congrats!

Ed, I picked this up from another site: "the 1946 Willys-Series CJ-2A was built primarily in the Willys-Overland Jeep plant on Willys Parkway in Toledo, OH. Prior to its incarnation as a Jeep manufacturing plant, the Willys-Overland plant was once a washing machine factory! (Ever wonder why the front ends of early Jeeps were so square? That's why!" That Plant on Willys parkway was still being used in the late 80s, so Pete's Willys will probably still have some agitator in it

I have the ECI conversion on my P-23--the original 15" wheels rubbed on the calipers even with 1/2" of spacers. The brakes work very well and now I have an excuse to buy some new smoothies. I had a mechanic install the ECI dual M/C ( I don't do plumbing), he said he had to do a little modifying to get it to work but I don't know the details

The packing was a combination of Wood and Cardboard. O/D wired down on a board, then board and O/D put into a Cardboard box with a ton of Styrofoam peanuts. I agree a wood box would have prevented the damage---the only good news is that the OD is salvageable---worse case scenario is I'm out a couple of bills, best case is I'll have to wait a couple of weeks longer to drive on the interstate

The outside is a work of art--but the dash is priceless; the ol tin cup is perfect. Let me guess, he has a 230 with high compression head, dual Ball & Ball carbs, dual exhaust with an overdrive

I've filed some paperwork but have to wait "5-7" business days before someone will call me back. Hopefully I will get reimbursed enough for a new Solenoid ....on the plus side, the brake, input shaft etc. have no dings or dents

Thx Ed, It's at my Mechanics now--I'll have him check out the mounting hole locations before we try any repair