48mirage

Here is one place to start: http://www.manheimgold.com/car_lo.html Then comes the hard part, you have to make your own evaluation as to what the car is worth to you and how you will use it.

For the gyromatic transmission it is 78 11/16" long part # 1402 161, for standard transmission it is 77 11/16" long part # 1328 334, for torque converter there are 2 choices based on the production number. The first is 73 1/2" long part # 1405 453 for production cars before Detroit 37189007, LA 48508185, San Leandro 48010561. After these production numbers the part is 66 1/2" long part # 1405 452.

If you have to drill that bolt out go buy yourself a left handed bit and put your drill in reverse. You will have obout a 50/50 chance that the bolt will back out during the drilling process. Looks like only a couple of threads are sticking up above the block, probably not enough to get a stud remover on it.

As an added item. Since this is a bolt that isn't removed regularly for maintenance you might try a little "red" locktite. Just a little added security and It will not prevent you from taking it apart again.

Still stock on the electrics. Since I have to replace the bulb I will check for the short/vibration issues while I have it apart. Thanks

I keep burning out the left headlight. The wiring looks fine but I will go back over that again to be sure. I have not noticed when it is going out. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm going down the road. But my headlight switch is very stiff to turn on at times. Could this be the source of the problem. Would some sort of short in the switch blow the filament?

Can't answer about the carb you are looking at. On my '49 230 I am getting ready to put on a 2 barrel also. I got the Langdon's Stovebolt catalog and they have some stuff to make this work but I think this is too much carb. Doing the numbers and figuring the volumetric efficiency of these manifolds down to around 60% the 350 cfm carb would be too much. I am looking at a holley 94, model 2110 used on mid 50 fords. down around 150 cfm's and with the later '54 Plymouth intake I found I have been able to identify the exact carb and take advantage of the automatic manifold heated choke, dashpot and carberator vacuum advance. My recent education came when I started a web search on the Holley 94's and read some of the tech articles. As an alternative I see a lot about a fellow George Asche (sp?) who does a lot of work on these engines. He appears to be particularly adept at modifying the intakes and exhausts and using dual carter single barrel carbs. Do a search on him in here and you will probably get to see some pictures of his work.

Not dead set on anything, but looking at all the options. I'm currently trying to figure out what drawbacks there may be if any running the dual battery charging system I pointed to in my earlier post.

Here is where I get confused. When the thing is running, why isn't the 6 volt positive ground interfering with the 12 volt negative ground. I feel a little slow in this, but I keep coming up with 6volts potential when you use both systems at the same time.

Merle, I understand what you are saying about the overcharging of the lesser used battery. I am thinking that in this application it may be the other way around. Let me explain. In your industrial setting the inner battery supplied the accessory and the combined batteries served the needs of the equipment. In the scenario put forth the inner battery has the more constant draw servicing the needs of the car and the outer battery is servicing the accesories. It is used less and if the 12 volt charging system is trying to maintain 12 volts total, it appears to me the outside battery is the one that is going to get cooked. Same problem different result. Now here is one that I can't figure out. The link takes you to a guy who says he put a dual electrical system in his car. 6 volt positive ground with generator to serve the needs of the car and a 12 volt negative ground to supply ignition, fuel pump, accessories. I can't get my head around it and he has not responded to my email. I would like some opinions on this. http://classichemi.com/index53.shtml

I like the idea of putting AC in my D30, but I notice your motor might be a little bigger than mine.

Looking at the gold book, http://www.manheimgold.com/car_lo.html the sedan would have to be between excellent and show quality. Probably not quite there. The gold book is only a guide like any other the final choice is up to you.

Thanks to all. This shows the geniuses of days gone by. Simple solutions are always the best.

I picked up a late P25 head to mill and instal on my D30 block. I noticed in the combustion chamber of #6 cylinder is a small hole, about .7 mm in diameter (mechanical pencil lead). This appears to be in the centerline of the block. On the top side of the block is a small screwed plug. When I remove the plug I don't see the hole (not to say it isn't full of crud, haven't cleaned it yet) Is this designed into the head or did I just have head that developed a leak? If it is designed, what was it's purpose?

'49 Coronet D30, picked up a head from the salvage yard from a late P25 ('54 Plymouth). The later head is set up for the internal coolant bypass (bump on front of head). Of course my block is not cast with the matching hole. Should I have this extra hole in the head plugged after I have the head milled? Jim

'49 Coronet, factory turn signals. Left side a good steady flash and an indication on the dash. Right side, flashes at warp speed and you only get a single indicaiton on the dash. All lights on the exterior are working. Have not checked bulbs to make sure they are all the same yet. Would a short in the wiring cause this?

I am bad. Short answer no. There are 3 different driveshafts listed for Dodge between '46 and '48. Plymouth has a different number. Dodge '41-'48 D19, D22 D24 up to 30735343 w/o fluid drive 57" long 867 590 Dodge '41-'48 D19, D22 D24 after 30735343 w/fluid drive 51 7/8" long 867 592 Dodge '46-'48 D24 up to 30735343 w/o fluid drive 52 1/8" long 952 547 I looked up drive shaft and not propeller shaft when I posted these numbers. Not thinking, sorry about the wild goose chase.

According to the parts book the fenders are the same for '53 and '54. Right 1372 493, left 1372 494.

Here is a link to the Manheim Gold book. Kind of an Edmunds or Blue Book for classic cars. Of course it is only a guide and you must still interpret its value to you. I used this when buying my 49 'Dodge and paid within $50.00 of what the guide said it was worth. http://www.manheimgold.com/car_lo.html

Short answer, yes. According to my parts book the drive shaft is the same for all '37 to '48 six cylinders, Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto and Chrysler. The part number is 1118 136. The length is listed as 32 1/4".

Compressed air and pooled gasoline. Your story scared me just imagining the fuel/air mix blowing out of the carb like a smokestack.

For those using the M6 transmission (gyromatic,tip-toe, underdrive) I have found a source of the 10w nondetergent oil. While in my local NAPA today I saw it on the shelf. I asked if it was an item they regularly carried and they said no. I picked up a bottle and read the back. The supplier's web page is www.smittysinc.net I believe they are a wholesaler and may not be up to shipping you a few bottles at a time but they could tell you what retailer is in your area. Looking at the web site it did not specifically list the 10w non-detergent but I held a bottle in my hand, so I know it exists. Jim

Found it. http://www.exeterautosupply.com/Offenhauser%20Catalog.html

I found one online the other day, but, the link is on the computer at work. And I don't go back to work until Saturday evening. I will try to post that link then. The catalog is provided by a parts supplier out of california.

Looking at my parts book the roof panel for the P15 is the same for the same 2 dr/4 dr Plymouths for the years of '42 thru '48. Part Number 988 239. I also see this as the same part number for a 40 Dodge. These are the roof panels with the drain troughs. Jim