Dozerman51

Hello Don, The motor is a 236.6(237) 25" block. It's been totally rebuilt and balanced and the cam is an Isky high performance one. I had the advance curves changed to give me more power on acceleration. It runs like a Swiss watch at Idle. Upon acceleration at around 1500 RPM's on up, I get a motor miss. If I pull the choke out about a third of the way, the miss goes away and the motor runs smoothly. Have done the propane test to check for a vacuum leak but couldn't find one. Will check the float setting, but do not think that is the problem. Thanks for any further advice on how I can get it running smooth at high speed.

Hello Elwood, Thanks for taking the time to look up the dwell angle. Yes, like you I just cannot seem to find that model number anywhere. The IND-7 was installed in a WWII welding unit which was mounted on a trailer. It definitely is a Chrysler tagged distributor that's for sure. Oh well, I'll just set it at 39 degrees, re-time the motor and see what happens. Have a nice weekend.

Does anyone have the Dwell Angle for an Autolite IGC-4721 Distributor. It is installed on my IND-7(237) which powers My WC-12. Thanks in advance for help.

That filter canister set up you have will work fine for your truck or car applications. I have a Purolator "Military Standard Jr." set-up in my WC-12 which has an IND-7(237) motor in it. The filter canister is a tad larger than the the one you have. While the by-pass system of filtration is functional, the full -flow system of filtration is much better. Problem is, the full flow system was only used on Chrysler and Desoto 25" motors. I have never seen a 23" Mopar flathead with a factory installed full flow system.

Nice picture of you, the family and the truck. Do you have the 3rd and 4th gear synchronized transmission or the non-synchro. unit? Love the yellow pinstriping.

Hey Rockwood, Thanks for the great video. Love the color and motor set up you have on your 'Functional Design" pick-up. What size motor do you have in it? What's the third member ratio? Looks like you were cruising there at a good clip and the flathead was running smooth and quiet. I have a '41 WC-12 4x4 running 900-16 NDT's with a 237 and post war 8&3/4 4.30 soon to be 4.10 third members in it. I can cruise at 60 doing about 2450 RPM's. Unlike your truck though, it's gets pretty loud with the 6 bladed fan and straight cut gears in the transmission and transfer case. still you gotta love them Dodge built trucks.

Matt, One more thing. Go to the Power Wagon Forum Page and to Phil's Archive pages. The topics are listed in numerical order. topic #23 on page 2 is titled "237-265 in a FFPW W/O(without) grill extension. The subject matter was first talked about on April 17th 2007. It explains to you what you need to do to move the radiator forward 2-3". Hope this helps.

BIngo, You've got one too. I really like them. Just to have it, I picked Miler Tool #DD-921 which is used to unscrew the case cap on all old dodge corporate third members. With this tool, it will make it easier to remove the case caps on the third members when I find a set of 8.75 3.91 ratio R&P's for my WC-12. LOL. Much better with this tool than using a punch to loosen the case caps which I'm sure a lot of people do.

Wow dodgeb4ya, that sure is some kind heavy duty steering wheel puller set up that's for sure. I purchased a Military contract mechanical puller, NSN# 5120-00-620-0020 some years ago which is used to pull the steering wheels off of everything from 1/4 ton jeeps up to 2.5 - 5 ton trucks. It's very compact and has paid for itself many times over. It does a great job in protecting the threads of the steering gear shaft when pulling the wheel. There were 2 for sale on E-bay just a few days ago. Not cheap, but worth their weight in gold nonetheless.

On the 1/2 ton military WC 4x4 you mount the Radiator on the outside of the Radiator support which gives you the 2 inches you need. Threaded rod, nuts and bolts are used to secure it to the outside of the Radiator support. Your power wagon requires a different technique. I have read something about reversing the Radiator support on the power wagon and this gives you the required 2" of clearence you need. Again I'm not sure. Don't know about how to make the Radiator neck conversion. Sorry.

Hi Matt, Sorry I haven't got back to you sooner. I used the Gen. mount Generator and adjusting strap from the 230 - Direct interchange. The rear of the motor bolted right up to the bellhousing. Yours should be the same. I had to use the chain case cover plate from the 230 motor as the one from the 237 was bolted to the engine support from the bottom not the top. I used the pulley from the 230 motor so it would clear the front frame engine support crossmember. On my motor installation, I just welded two 3/8" thick by 1" or so wide by 2&1/4" long steel plates over each hole in a spare floating power mount. By doing this the welded plates reached back to the original engine mount holes in the frame. I then marked the holes in the plates for drilling and I was set. No cutting or welding on the frame was needed. A real neat and clean modification. I'd post pic's of the truck here, but am not that computer savy about doing that yet. I only know how to e-mail pic's to an individual address. LOL. If you would go Joe Cimoch's "Power Wagon Forum", there are guys there that could really help you out in your Modification. have a nice day.

I just installed an IND-7(237) in my WC-12 which previously had a 230 in it. I used the front engine plate, the "Floating Power" mount, and the crank pulley from the 230. The new water pump I installed was Identical to the one on the 230. The block was boiled out and decked along with the 241CI "Spitfire head", all new Pistons, pins, bearings etc. A VPW high performance cam along with the HD valve springs was installed, the motor was balanced along with the clutch and flywheel. She purrs like a kitten and definately has more power going up moderate to steep hills that did the 230.

Hey John-T-53, I live just south of you in San Carlos. Maybe you've seen me driving my green and gold '41 WC 1/2 ton military around. Would be nice to hook up and talk vintage mopar.

Lining thickness and length for your 1 ton should be about the same as for my WC-12 which has the same diam. brakes front and rear. Thickness of lining is as follows: front wheel ..3/16". rear Wheel ..1/4". Length of lining: Front wheel-front shoe ..11&5/64", Front wheel rear shoe ..7&11/16". Rear wheel both shoes ..14&1/2". Again, these are the specs for my truck, but I would suspect that yours are the same or very close to these. Hope this info helps you out. Dozerman51 San Carlos, CA '41 WC-12(salad) '40 Cat D2/3J

Yes you are correct in your assumption, although you have to remember that all Canadian built motors whatever the CI displacement is, are going to be 25" blocks. The main differences being the bore and stroke along with different carbs etc. Dozerman51 San Carlos,CA '41 WC12(salad) '40 Cat D2/3J

Hello Darkrider, Your B1-D does indeed have 11" x 2" brakes in the front, and 14&1/8" x 2' in the rear. Do you have any Idea what the third member ratio is on your truck? The ratio will be either 4.89, 4.30 or the rare 3.91. Ratio is stamped on the rectangular pad found below the filler plug and re-enforcement rib on the third member. May have to really wire brush it to reveal the stamped numbers. Good luck on your restoration. Dozerman51 '41 WC-12 '40 Cat D2/3J

Good day all, I have a 1950 Dodge 4speed synchro. out of a 1.5 ton PH truck. I have changed out the front main shaft to the smaller diam. shaft to fit my 1/2 ton WC-12 bellhousing. I have also purchased a new mechanic's joint yoke to fit the hand brake drum. The drum is the same diam. as the original WC brake drum. The difference is the Synchro. trans. drum is wider than the WC drum. I am hoping it will still be a simple bolt on affair. What do you guys think. Yes, I will have to trim the lower metal floor board slightly, make a new wood floorboard and make a new transfer case rod. But other than that, it should should all work. I'm getting tired of Double Clutching after 27 years of owning the truck. LOL.

I have Yahoo as a search engine and in the box I just type in "Pilothouse knowledge". Skip the "Truck" part. It should work. Let us know how you make out. J. Giraud '41 WC-12 '40" Cat D2/3J

In your search box type in "Pilothouse Truck knowledge". Scroll down to the 1949-58 Truck repair manual heading and punch in that. Further down the list there is a 1953 "B" series Dodge truck repair manual you can look at for help. It's a very nice reference site. Hope this Info helps. J. Giraud '41 WC-12(Salad) '40 Cat D2/3J

Hello Rich, Thanks a bunch for the info. It will really help me out. Have a nice day. Joe Giraud

Anyone know the part number of the vacuum advance unit for an IGS-4208A-1 Distributor. This distributor is out of a 1947 Chrysler Royal. Thanks.

Hello jpartington, While the third member PT81Jan is showing in the picture above is similar to your third member the disassembly and reassembly is different. He is showing you a "Cage" type differential case, your B3D has a "Barrel" type differential case. In your search box type in "Pilothouse Knowledge". click on to the site and scroll down the topic's to the repair manual for Dodge trucks. They show you what you need to do to take the third member apart. You need to remove the Diff. case lock pin by driving it out through the case. You then can use a blunt drift or the better method of using the proper tool to unscrew the Diff. case cap after either submerging the case only in boiling water or the later method of heating the case only by playing a torch around the outside. Go to the above mentioned site and read about the operation before attempting to take the third member apart. What is your third member gear ratio? Good luck.

You have the wrong Differential case for the 3.73 R&P gears, The same happens when you are swapping R&P ratio's for the 1 ton trucks. Certain ratios use one case and other ratio's use another.

The 54-56 Funtional design series 1 ton Dodge could be had with a 4.10 ratio and the 57-59 D-200, D300, W-200, 57-59 P-300 could also be found with the 4.10 ratio. I am currently running post war 4.3 third members in my 41' WC-12 with 900-16 tires. Final gear ratio is 3.94. Cruise all day at 55-60 turning around 2450-2500 RPMs. Big hills are another story. I am having an IND-7 236.6 rebuilt and plan on installing that motor in the truck to give me a bit more "Pep" for the hills than the 230 I am running now. I have a set of 4.10 third members which I will install In the truck once the new motor is in it.

Hello Dodgeb4ya, That is a nice 'Big" Dodge you have there. I haven't been on this Forum for quite a while, but aren't you the fellow that had or has a Pilothouse or Functional design 4x4 truck that was said to be factory made?