41/53dodges

Not a very extensive one, made some modifications since then. Eventually gave up on the fuel injection and went back to the carb. Turbo was particularly small, like off a 1.6l Subaru. Boost hit about 1200rpm and carried all the way to the top, but the issue was exhaust backpressure started countering the boost above 2500, kinda like a banana in the tailpipe. That said, for super and turbocharging alike the exhaust is a big problem. Scavenging is deeply improved going to duals (read up on flat vs cross plane cranks for V8s for reference) Cleaning up the ports & combustion Chambers with a mild cam help as well. Basically, build a reliably strong N/A motor inside and out and build from there. Probably should stipulate, If you're expecting V8 power then this is not the solution. It's not going to raise the motors redline, and the boost curve doesn't change the motors natural torque curve, only aids (and sometimes pulls it down) Feel free to pick my brain if you please! I'm by no means a wizard, although I do like pointy hats...

I ran a small turbo on a tired 218 for a few years, blew through a factory BB carb at like 5-7lbs. I'm not going to call it a good idea, but it worked better than you'd think, the internal bowl vent and a boost referenced pressure regulator is key. Thing ran like crazy all things considered.

About 7 1/4" or so

Correct me if I am wrong, but won't the pressure relief valve prevent the filter from filling under these conditions? It is set to open at around 60PSI i think, so no oil should be flowing there. Other than that, was there water in the oil when you first got the truck?

So an update on this diesel project, the Cummins is pretty well off the table. So I turned up a 3-71 General Motors Diesel (Detroit diesel) a couple hours from here. Big noisy turds but I just can't help but love the sound . The perk is that the local yard has a dead 6-71 I can strip for parts, like a flywheel... Only issue is getting up the nerve to go and fetch the thing with my 1/2 ton Chevy! PS- if it pleases the mods I am going to keep using this so as to not clutter up the forum

that's something different, thing ought to move when he gets that 5.3 in there even without the turbo! The LS turbo setup is getting pretty common these days, and dang do they make power. They usually have 6 bolt mains in em, I have heard of these motors doing 900 horse out of the stock bottom end

There is a series of words for that fact that cannot be said on this forum... Oh well, back to the old drawing board!

That big hose you saw is likely the drain from the cowl vent, about 1/2-5/2" outer diameter? the hose for a vacuum wiper should be around 1/4-3/8" diameter. Another easy way to tell is to just grab the wiper and gently try to move it. If it moves easily and you hear a compressed air type noise, it's vacuum. If they don't move those are electric! Be careful with that fuel pump, some of em' crack and let fuel run into the oil pan...

I think i already have that one knocked, the 855 laying there with the trans appears to take the same wheel, so that SHOULD be perfect. It would likely need a better radiator, probably another aluminum griffin. Driveshaft is to be determined, as would be a possibly heavier front axle

Haven't actually tried running it yet, but I had it turning over albeit rather slowly. Jumper cables and a truck battery just don't cut it in -5 degrees! It acts like a couple cylinders don't have any compression, probably hung up valves, stuck rings, etc. but it ran when it came in. I had never mentioned the overdrive trans being new! Its actually bolted to a blown up 855 cummins right this moment, but it's there! Its still there primarily because the owners were going to use it to power their sawmill before it closed up some time back, and sat there ever since. They're asking $1000 for it last I asked, but going through my friends here has its benefits such as free reign of their parts, help, and beer. 6BT's are going around 2-3k here for some odd reason, which makes this motor a bit more attractive along with it's old school cool. I would be glad to answer any questions, probably some in here I haven't even thought of myself!

This motor had a torque converter behind it, so the thrust bearing shouldn't have ever done much anything. Ive got a 5 spd overdrive that should bolt right up. I would have a much easier time if someone could tell me why this motor supposedly is no good! My friend also has a Detroit 4-53 non turbo, but those things are so noisy...

I love the strange looks I always get driving the 53' Between just being an old Dodge truck and the turbo whine it just makes me grin ear to ear!

That looks pretty well done, almost seems like adding 2 more cylinders wouldn't be the end of the world either!

The trucks are pretty easy to work on, and if you have all the odd parts you have it made! Doesn't take much to make a decent daily driver out of one either. Rear end swaps, transmission swaps, the sky is the limit! However, Paul is correct in the idea that they aren't as wife friendly (however my grandma sure does look cute driving it!)

Ah, that clears things up a bit. This was a complete operating unit when it came in, and having had a torque converter leads me to believe it led a life of leisure (torque converter models only put out 75% of rated power after the converter, thus preventing any shock loading and such) Of course I want to make it run before I put anything down for it, would rather suck to wind up with a trash motor! Thank you for your help guys, I think I know just about enough to move forward.

The amp gauge does not require any modifications, just reverse the lines on it if you reverse the polarity temp gauge is purely mechanical, and can be adapted to just about anything Fuel gauge needs a resistor or a voltage regulator, either way works That cummins looks pretty nice, this place is getting full of em! Do you know about how much difference there is in the length of that motor vs the flathead?

That does not appear to be an R type pump (i have a cummins manual here thanks to Merle), its the standard automotive type pump. The original grader actually used a foot pedal just like a truck, which controlled throttle that way. It was a very strange machine, hence why they scrapped it early for poor design. Do you have any idea why the heads cracked? Excessive heat, poor fuel, etc.

That is awesome!do you have any more pictures under the hood? That would appear to just be a 4BT, and it fits pretty well

That being said, does anyone know why there would be a spark/glow plug looking thing on the intake manifold? There's a small petcock right next to it, I could only guess you are supposed to burn something for cold starting?

I think it is too darn old to have that number, havent found any other plates. However, I ripped off the siezed hydraulic pump hung on the back of the unit, and without that broken turd the thing spins just fine! Hooking up a truck battery and some jumpers got the thing cranking over on it's own, although it sounds like some valves are hung open. So the engine seems in good enough shape so far!

I really don't think I want to know the answer to that one! But custom parts are probably the cheapest route. Story goes it was a great runner when it came.in

Fuel pump is the older PT type, automotive style oddly enough. Those are all the numbers I could scrounge up without removing things...

I couldn't find anything that said ESN, but I believe engine number should be it...

What does it weigh, what does it wind up to (some people say to run em like detroits...), are there any things I would want to know about it like failures, how exactly to operate it, how good the bottom ends are in these things, and any miscelaneous information. Thanks again!

I got the information in today, Model: 175C Eng No. 126817 Date 2865 Plus I got a but more of the story about it. The brakes failed on the machine back in about 69' when it got rolled, and somehow the compression release was pulled when the operator was thrown off. The company ripped the cab off and used it a couple more years before scrapping it for being a really strange design. It ran last back in 1990, now the hydraulic pump is siezed but I can turn the engine a couple degrees pretty easily so I would assume it's alright for now