JBNeal

SURVIVOR: spotted this Pilot-House at the salvage yard east of Lamar CO during the 15hr odyssey taken on a return trip where most of the TX and OK Panhandles were iced over

SURVIVOR: inspected this workhorse at the corner of a big empty parking lot in Borger...the key was still in the ignition

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 tanker on the FB

SURVIVOR: another old Dodge at that weld shop in Pampa

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-series wrecker on the FB

Rebuilding gets ya new rubber on the original style pumps that do not fall apart like the new pumps. https://p15-d24.com/links/

Roberts carries these spiral shank nails, but looks like they've gone up price wise since the last time I checked...might want to reach out to them to verify before ordering...VPW might also carry them https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/hood-lace-nails-each-used-with-fabric-style-hood-lace-see-t11-1

SURVIVOR: caught this B-1 behind a high-fence surrounding a weld shop next to the bowling alley on the edge of Pampa during the start of the 1st snowfall of winter

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Big Rig B-1or2 on the FB

I had to study that profile view for awhile, and my best guess is that with a car loaded just over the rear axles, the nose of the car would be under the driver position. The lower glass would be about where the floorboards would be so the driver could see traffic or other obstructions over his feet. The sky high cabs were done back in the era of semi-truck overall length restrictions that were phased out by the 1980s, making cabover semi-trucks a rarity today compared to conventional cabs.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge Skyscraper workhorse on the FB

SURVIVOR: this'n was a tough one to spot, and an even harder one to record...cab and front clip of B-1 big truck that I saw dismantled years ago, waaaay off the road west of Belton

afaik, bearings are technically consumables so the packaging might be the only indicator of size as well as p#

SURVIVOR: spotted this B-3 panel on the other side of the tracks in Snyder...an uncollared snarling mutt roaming the street kept me from getting any closer

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge Skyscraper workhorse on the FB

Technically, most of these spotted are in West TX, The Big Country, or The Panhandle...just spreading my knowledge of tarps and parachutes and whutnot

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge Skyscraper workhorse on the FB

SURVIVOR: a better view of the restored service station: service station and Shackelford County courthouse:

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge tanker on the FB

SURVIVOR: I was able to get a few pics of that dually at a restored Sinclair station in Albany that shows up on the internets...it's an older restoration but still a nice buggy

Yes, spraying paint gets more coverage faster, but when ya factor in the overspray prepararion and cleanup on subjects where ya only need a good long lasting coating and esthetics are not a priority, foam brushes are hard to beat. Foam brushes do have limitations, but as described this is work being done outside on an old utility trailer with bare metal showing from recent welding repairs, less than ideal conditions on something that is seen as an implement, not a show piece. Weather conditions should be improving when I get to the fenders, so I plan on doing some wet sanding to induce some shine, but the rest of the trailer I'm only trying to keep a smooth finish as this thing will get crawled over and beat on by ppl usually in a hurry to get a chore done. The propane tank painting experiment has proven that using these economical methods outdoors works well as ideal working conditions are limited and the need to complete projects with adequate paint finishes overrules the need for superior paint finish results. My collection of Purdy brushes has served me well over the last 15yrs, and they do great on woodwork and sheetrock, as long as it is not too windy. I had to trash one of my Purdy brushes years ago cuz I tried to finish painting an eave as a storm system popped up and was blowing in...apparently the paint dried on the bristles on the last few sq ft and while I tried to clean that water base paint off, it was clear that the bristles were purt'near stiff as a board and nothing I tried could recondition them...lesson learned.

SURVIVOR: saw this B-4 on the edge of Crosbyton, also guarded by goats

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Power Wagon on the FB

After repairing the structural damage to my friend's 5x10 trailer, next is repainting this relic from the 80s with Rustoleum and foam brush. We have been dealing with alotta rain so this li'l trailer is back outside as higher priority projects are in the barn. Tongue, bulkhead, top rails, and tail ledge were wire cup brushed, washed in Dawn + water, dried off with a towel during a 6 hr sunny afternoon, then the breeze ran across it as I stirred clean metal primer...1st coat went on in the shade nice'n thin, smooth to touch when checked 24hrs later. 2nd coat was applied in shade with winds 10-15 mph, and by 24hrs later, it had dried a little rough so I buffed with wet scotchbrite pad and towel dried 2x. It kinda felt like that primer was drying on the brush cuz of the wind as brush dragged a bit on the surfaces...I'm guessing the rough texture was teeny dried balls of paint that the brush was rolling off of the 2nd primer coat as it was skinning over rapidly due to the gusty wind. It did not take much effort to buff them off, and the 1st coat of Hunter green went on smoothly thereafter...though the skies spritzed for a few minutes right as I was finishing. That precip beaded up on the horizontal surfaces after coating, so it looks like I'll be wet sanding before 2nd top coat. The trick here is to move fast with the brush without slinging paint all over creation. Trial and error has taught me to dip foam brush 1/4 into paint then dab globs of paint quickly in parallel stripes to the desired brush strokes in a manageable area, then tip brush back and forth to spread those globs around until brush just starts to drag. Putting paint on too thinly with house painting brush strokes will not cover well as brush will drag unevenly. Dipping too much paint onto the brush makes a mess and the foam will deteriorate faster, pulling off of the handle because of the extra weight. With more use, the paint eventually wicks up the foam...I grip the brush by the foam at the base of the handle, kinda like an ink pen, and by the time paint starts to get on my fingers, I know that I do not have much time before the foam might start sloughing off into the paint I'm trying to spread around. It's looking like I'll need less than a quart each of primer and green paint to finish this trailer, which tallies to a 50 buck paint job with no overspray to deal with...I can live with that

I reckon it has to do with elimination of metal-to-metal contact to minimize vibration in the driveline, which could have an abrasive effect on the mating surfaces...over time, this might result in the bolts holding things together having reduced clamping force...that could be problematic. The other side of the coin is the thin paper gaskets isolate the vibrator in the engine compartment horn so it will actually work properly. I believe more modern powertrains eliminated the paper gaskets as material technology and manufacturing methods have improved over the decades.