JBNeal

SURVIVOR saw this'n on the FB

1950 1/2 ton with pin-striping & no title...getting a title can run upwards of 500 depending on paperwork & govt employee aptitude...if the motor/transmission are stuck/shot, I would be hard pressed to throw more than 750 at it cuz of all the work it would need to make it road-worthy...but that's like my opinion, mannn

HOLLYWOOD saw this documentary film on FB:

I apologize for my negativity, but hanging power equipment by their cords is considered an OSHA violation because the wiring inside the cords can be damaged and possibly cause a short circuit...the expanded metal is very nice and with a little more creativity, them power tools can be stored in a more safe manner.

I reckon the rule of thumb is to operate for 500 miles before the first oil change on break-in, which could be about 20 hours preferably with some loading to really heat up the internals to soften up the crud

I've seen a few two tones that appear to be derivatives of the Spring Special on the bigger trucks...most follow the break lines around the hood over the doors like these or those...some follow the beltline of the cab like this'n or that'n...one of the looks I've fancied is the white or argent grille bars + front bumper on the 51-53 nose on a darker color like a royal blue or flame red, with possibly a white upper cab above the beltline (cuz it's so hot here in TX)

additional information - unknown survivor

Pictures, please TOOLBOX ARSENAL: These soldering pliers were dusted off to work on a aircraft power supply unit...very effective for soldering crimped lugs on 2/0 gauge wire: solder flowed within a second, and still flowed 10 seconds after the pliers were removed

I think the big issue with the V8 swap is addressing the clearance of the exhaust manifold to the stock steering gearbox. I am not a proponent of the V8 swap as it appears like a LOT of work to make the truck functional...with the flathead 6, not only do ya have a motor that fits, where parts are still available (it takes a little work to find the good stuff sometimes), but ya get the WOW factor of the flathead look & exhaust note. Another point of interest is addressing the brakes...if ya put the master cylinder on the firewall, then ya more than likely will have to scab in a brake pedal assembly to mount inside the cab to the firewall & back of the dash. Might as well upgrade the brakes to a dual chamber master with rotors up front and maybe in the rear...by then the snowball is a-rollin' as ya have to decide how many upgrades do ya want, cuz at some point ya might even contemplate just putting the Pilot House body on a Dakota rolling chassis, which has a modern powertrain & brakes

NOSpart: 1272155 The NOS 51-53 steering wheel I saw on eBay in 2010 was still in its original box, but the dunderhead seller slapped a UPS label and some packaging tape on that gem of a box & it survived transit in not as good as condition as advertised, which was quite disappointing as it could have made for a nice display item...the steering wheel still has the cosmoline applied and some slight shelf wear (probably from rattling around in the box on the way from over yonder)

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 Woody over on The Pilot House Registry

NOSpart: I found some NOS oil filters over the years

NOSpart: I found 1097836 (R) and 1097837 (L) short mirror arms for B-1 and B-2 back around 2000

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 car hauler on the FB

HOLLYWOOD ...and it is an intense trailer

D100 & D200 rims had hubcaps; those 6-lug Budd rims are a giveaway that it is a D300 1-ton...if they are the one piece rims, I know some folks that would arm wrassle ya for them things

HOLLYWOOD saw this Hawaii Five-0 rerun the other day, although I recall there was another episode where this same truck was seen moving at a high rate of speed (downhill, of course)

SURVIVOR: I had 1st shot at this back in 2011 but couldn't swing it cuz of this that & the other

here's an example of what ya might be lookin' for

As for the oil pan gaskets, I had some heavy (yellow) wheel bearing grease left over from a farm trailer overhaul and used that as my adhesive as it was very tacky. I then used a red lithium grease to the other gasket surfaces, and this has served well for multiple crankcase & valve cover gasket removals. From what I have read here & there, synthetic oils only really benefit new engines with tight tolerances; otherwise, for the larger tolerances in these flathead engines, any store brand dinosaur oil will have more effective detergents in it than the engine oils that were available 50 years ago. A good filter, sock or cartridge, will also assist the oil in removing contaminant from the system. The minor modifications needed to assist in sludge prevention in the form of the 180 or 195 thermostat and the PCV system can also help keep the innerds clean in the long run

additional information - B-1-C-116 survivor

VINTAGEPIC: check out that B-1or2 COE hood ornament

additional information - steering gearbox adjustments

Turn signals & headlight relay

I prefer the 0 gauge...made that upgrade on the '48 and it helped with my starting issues