JBNeal

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 at auction on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 dump truck on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 hauling flatheads on the FB

I strongly recommend having the fuel tank professionally cleaned and coated...I had one tank Renu'd in '96, another in '04, both are still intact

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 panel on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-3 ice cream delivery truck on the FB

additional information - B-1-F survivor

I had an older piece of farm equipment fail because the nylon lock nuts, which were quite old, came loose as the nylon had become brittle and no longer locked the nut in place. As for repeat usage, I reckon this varies with nut size & quality of nylon. I've seen larger nylon lock nuts that lose their effectiveness after one use, and smaller (under 1/4") nylon lock nuts that could be used repeatedly. Since using the prevailing torque lock nut, I generally have opted to not use the nylon lock nuts, as the PTLNs are not as susceptible to failure from heat, age, or fatigue...on more than one occasion, I have converted a regular hex nut into a PTLN as a temporary solution as I had a bench vise and machinist's hammer available and needed to complete a project in a timely manner

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 1-ton on the FB

I knew Radio Shack was in trouble when they took sooooo long to start selling cellular telephones & mobile devices from established providers. They had the infrastructure to support that kind of commerce, but they continued to sell batteries, remote control cars, so-so stereo equipment, PC accessories, etc... I went into 3 separate Shacks in the last year for various odds & ends, and was greeted by "we don't have that", a csr looking up inventory on their computer, and saying they might could get it in a few days...otherwise known as "something I could do on my own from my laptop or smart phone"... There are several good electronics suppliers online for project components, but looking online gets tedious versus perusing a paper catalog or browsing shelves of parts...I've had some good ideas by accidentally noticing something completely different from what I have been looking for in catalogs or on shelves to solve other problems, but looking stuff up online, ya almost have to know exactly what you are looking for in order to get any information...for example, NAPA's old website allowed me to look up all kinds of technical information on PCV valves in order to generate a list of a currently manufactured valves to match the displacement of my flatheads, but then they revised their website several years ago that required the user to give a vehicle for reference and most of the technical information was no longer available. But that's the way of the world now I reckon: if ya are working on something outside of "the system", then you are on your own

HOLLYWOOD flipping thru the channels, I spotted this scene...from Ghost Town, USA episode of The Brady Bunch...I reckon that Pilot-House was a tow truck of some sort from the looks of the truncated bed

The '48 & '49 (and maybe early '50) used p/n 1238415; the Cleveland-type universal joint has lock plates similar to the ones at Mopar Mall.

here's a few stories...

steering box overhaul

additional information - wiper motor wiring

one of the problems with roller bearings is galling from years of non-use...those black lines & dots on the cones & rollers may not seem like much, but things can get ugly when them relics shell out...to save me any headaches in the future when working on old farm trailers, tractors, trucks, etc I opt to replace roller bearing cones & rollers if they are not pristine

additional information - B-1-F survivor

wrapping the wiring helps to keep it clean & in place...the old cotton-braided insulation was prone to catching fire if soaked with oil or gas and got too hot for whatever reason, whereas the newer rubberized insulation did not have this much of a problem...that's why when the technology advanced, wiring was sleeved in asphaltic loom, then eventually poked inside convoluted plastic loom, cuz it was cheaper

Group 1 6V battery is what fit in the original battery tray, cca varies by manufacturer but they are generally in the 600 amp range

additional information - Rear Shackle Removal

car engines had the dipstick tube through the block, truck engines had the dipstick tube on the side of the oil pan. I have a '55 Plymouth 230 in my '48 1/2 ton, but it has been converted to a truck oil pan + dipstick with the car exhaust manifold. Ya might want to verify the engine ya have before ordering any parts, ya might have a hodge-podge of years cobbled together for a workable flathead (see the Flathead Identification link in my signature)

Builds Post revised and updated with greybeard's engine and bed replacement information

I looked at the amp gauges I have in the box, and none of them were marked on the cardboard insulator. However, one of the complete clusters that was pulled still had the red wire on the terminal on the right (directly behind the discharge side)...if that doesn't work out, swap terminals

It looks like Roberts Motor Parts is updating their website, and Steele Rubber sells some, just off the top of my head...others are further along in their restorations and would have better information.

a side note: I purchased several NOS & NORS rubber fuel lines that mount to the fuel pump & frame-mounted fuel lines. They were very pliable and did not look aged with the exception of the vintage paper labels. It was a few months after installing one of these on my '48 that I noticed it was coming apart at the crimped ferrules. I lightly tugged on the rubber & could hear the rubber reinforcement ripping apart. So off it came, and them other "correct" parts are hidden in a box somewhere in the garage. I updated to a new fuel injection grade rubber hose with clamped ends several years ago...so far, so good