vintage6t

If I'm not mistaken the p15 is a 218 and the D42 is a 230. So the larger displacement and prob different compression ratio would have different timing curves for optimal performance vs. The 218. Therefore different distributors. Prob other design improvements between the two as well. Bottom line though is if it's not broke don't fix it. What I would do is setup your spare to be in working order and store it in your trunk. If your Petronix does go out on the road, the spare will be a quick and easy swap to get you going again.

I have. I used a donor diaphragm from another advance. The donor was a new advance with the same diameter that I had lying around. The original donor application was unknown. 1. Pried both cans open. 2. Removed both arms from thier respective diaphragms by drilling out the attaching rivet. 3. Riveted the old arm to the new diaphragm. Sealed the rivet with weather strip cement. 4. Sealed the diaphragm to the old can with weather strip cement. 5. Peened the lip of the old cover back onto the can. Between prying and peening the advance got kind of beat up but it worked fine. I took pictures of the process when I did it but looks like I deleted them. Attached pic is the finished working advance.

I'm installing a Explorer 8.8 disc rear and front discs in my car as well. It's a 50 Desoto convertible. Here is how I mounted the master cylinder for use with the original pedal. Your application is different but it may give you some ideas on how to proceed. Also since my car is a convertible, the frame is reinforced with an X cross member with a steel tunnel in the center for the drive shaft to fit through. Because the Explorer rear center section is offset by about 3 inches to the passenger side I couldn't use it as. That is because of limited side clearance in the frame's drive shaft tunnel. If not for the tunnel, the rear would have worked without modification. To better center the pinion, I cut and swapped the axle tubes and axles side to side. I basically did this https://www.trifive.com/posts/998087/ The car is not on the road yet, so can't speak to success or failure but thought I'd share anyway.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/tempe-classic-burning-man-camper-car/7815140439.html

On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/asche-triple-intake-dual-exhaust-manifolds-and-reground-performance-cam-for-mopar-25-flathead-6.1328989/

On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chrysler-desoto-vintage-edmunds-engine-speed-parts.1256806/

Posted on the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1947-chrysler-new-yorker-convertible.1327057/

Not mine, but posted on my local craigslist. https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/bristol-1950-chrysler-town-and-country/7813718715.html

Glad it worked. Btw - rather than trying to scribe low and full, I just filed small notches in the side of the stick. Makes it easy to read.

I used this dipstick as a replacement. It was a good fit for the hole in the block. I don't recall if I had to cut it for length or not. You will have to do an oil change and add the correct amount of oil to mark it accurately for full. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0D9VH11N5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I sold the car a few months ago but as far as I know the seat back is stationary b/c the roof folds behind it. It also helps to hide the power top cylinders. If it does flip down, I never knew that. The seat bases are hinged and flip up, as you mentioned.

Here's a picture of the folding jump seats from my 41 Convertible.

51 Plymouth with a 225 slant 6 drivetrain. On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1951-plymouth.1323749/

Just follow the above link. You should be able to see them regardless.

Posted on the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-plymouth-pb-engine-trans.1322733/