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I would lose power to the headlights on my '51 because of a corroded high/low beam floor switch.

Original pin-stripping on my P23. I can provide more pictures and/or measurements if you'd like.

$80,000 and you can inherit another man's misery: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Detroit-Autorama-1st-Place-1949-Plymouth-Special-Deluxe-/280706804623?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item415b6deb8f

The stock 2barrel air cleaner attaches the same way even though the "flue" is bigger. I hacked my 1barrel oil bath to make it work on the WW. Post some pictures up when you get your linkage figured out.

Ed is correct. http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv214/GreenPlymouth/IMGP0664Large.jpg

Found the pictures in this thread: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21549

I modified stock linkage to work with the WW by using two pivot points. Problem was by adding the extra pivot point and the unusual angles to make it work on the '51 Plymouth, it created too much slop in the gas pedal action. I ended up going with a Lokar throttle cable which works great. Have pictures around here somewhere.

needs running boards? sorry

On my very clean '51 Plymouth (which numbers indicate was built on the second to last day of '51 production and has zero rust through) I did the front disk brake conversion. I have kept all of the front drum parts but they have taking up valuable space for two years now. So the question I pose to all of you early Mopar faithful is: do I keep the drum assemblies for the next owner, throw that junk away, or donate them to some body that can use them. My line of thinking has been to save the drum parts for the next owner since the car is so dang original, but will these parts ever be important to a future owner? discuss.

In the area Daniel Boone's farm:

Figured I was young one here since I bought a car that people my Dad's age and older are in to. After reading this thread I feel "old" being 44 . I started my affection with Mopars when I bought my first car when I was 14, a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda. Paid $200 plus my mini-bike.

Nice vehicles men.

You talking about this weekend @ Gateway? How much is the entry fee and can you pass tech without front seatbelts?

So am I the only one to do a friend request for Greg immediately after reading this thread?

I got this plug wire set for my '51: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flathead-Universal-Plug-Wire-Kits,2378.html

Wasn't my intention but made for a good photo op (shot with iphone4).

Thanks, these are for someone else who will getting them cut and line honed.

All that crud preserved a lot of stuff on my car.

230 and 218 main caps are interchangeable, correct?

I would have one from a 230 and/or a 218, hit me up via pm if you still need one.

The replacement fuel pump that was installed less than a year before I bought my car failed within a month of me getting the car on the road. I bought a 6v electric pump, mounted it lower than the tank on the frame, wired it to the ignition switch, took the lever off the mech. pump and made a block off plate (so no fuel could get in to the block), and have been driving happily every since (minus the down time for the motor rebuild).

Thanks for posting the pics. I really like the Airflow and the Desoto.

Congrats on your retirement! Shouldn't you have bought a convertible sports-car to live it up in your retirement years?

Awesome! It's crazy how it goes from various parts during a rebuild to a dependable machine.

Greg, The green one is mine and it runs good with the 2 barrel and headers. Motor is the original with the 230 crank-rod combo, an Edgy Cam, shaved head, .030 overbore. Doesn't feel like much in 1st or 2nd (gearing, driver desensitized by faster cars, ?) but feels very strong on the highway. Car pulls hard from 60 to 85 mph. What's nice about the motor is that climbs grades on the highway with very minimal effort. Trip was uneventful, motor ran at 180-185 degrees in the morning @ 55 mph and 190-195 @ 60 mph in the hot afternoon on the way home. The noise the original drive shaft makes got a little louder. The original suspension drove fine except for some occasional cross bouncing LR to RF. When I got home I noticed that the LR is sitting lower than the RR so the it looks like the LR leaf spring is failing.