Jim Shepard

Roberts has 'em. The housing is not the quality I expected, but the lens are the original glass and are pretty good.

Yeah, I guess the only way to keep them even is to run them both down the passenger side...

That's an obvious solution, but I wanted to try and keep both pipes roughly equal in length. I thought that was the whole idea behind "tuned" headers...

I'm thinking about installing dual headers/exaust on my B2B. As I examine the underside, though, my concern is the location of the gas tank. It seems to be in the way of the traditional route for the driver side pipe/muffler. Has anyone done duals on a truck and, if so, how'd you route the left side pipe? How 'bout a picture or two?

I've heard that any late 40's to early 50's Chrysler with automatic transmission (or Fluid) will work. I think they had ratios of something like 3:56... I'm looking to do the same thing in my B2B.

I started out (last October) using straight 30wt then switched to 40wt when the temps started getting up around 100+. I've noticed that I don't use as much oil with the 40wt, which makes sense (at least to me...).

I believe the correction page is right (or, correct...). Anyway, I did mine in an aluminum-type color and it turned out great. Actually, I had a pinstripper do it.

Could you be a little more specific in terms of the trouble? What exactly is it you can't do? As an aside, when I did my frame-off resto I left the doors alone. They didn't droop, bind, or hang funny and I didn't want any re-mounting issues later. My preference for removing, all things being equal, is to remove the hinge pins and leave the plates alone. The adjustment is through these and, unless the doors need to be re-adjusted, there is little restoration value in removing them.

OK, I forgot something that I am sure someone will point out. The more of the restoration work one can do, the more one saves. Since I was not interested in learning the body and fender trade, I elected to have all that done by a professional. Consequently, my body and paint job cost me almost $10,000 (not counting the sandblasting). I'm not sure how much of that I could have saved by trying to do it myself but, it sure wouldn't have turned out as nice. It is a very excellant paint job and almost everyone who sees it comments about how nice the paint is. So, I'm guessing for me to have done the quality of job I payed for, I'd still be in some program somewhere learning the trade and getting the experience. Maybe, in another 10 years, I might have turned out as good a job as the guy who did it and had the 10 years experience. But, who knows?

OK, OK. Jeez! Can't a guy go off to the mountains for a few days horseback riding? Anyway, I'm assuming you want my input regarding the cost of restorations. I spent a little over $15,000 on what I think is a very good but, partial, restoration. By that I mean that since I didn't do anything to the motor except paint it (I didn't even remove it), nothing to the drive line, except clean it up, and nothing to the frame except clean and paint it, it was only partially restored. Had I overhauled the motor, completely disassembled and restored the suspension components, and sandblasted the frame before painting it, I could have easily spent another $5,000. As it was, I disassembled and sandblasted every body part, scrubbed every nut and bolt and washer, replaced all the rubber (except body mounts), replaced all the flat glass, replaced the wireing harness, bought Bruce Horkey's oak bed kit and skid strips, Roberts' interior kit and tail lights (and other misc. pieces that would work). I have it insured for $20,000 replacement cost. I paid $2,500 for truck in 1996. Do I think I'd get $15,000 for it. Not really. But, I never went into it to make a buck. I wanted to drive it and, as my Grandfather had one, it was more of a sentimental journey than anything else. I hope to pass it on to my son or grandson. As it's not for sale, I don't spend a lot of time wondering if I got a good deal. I spend a lot of time driving it...

I have been informed by several folks that a pumpkin out of a late 40's/early50's Chrysler will fit right in with no mods. That's my plan. It would be nice if someone had a Hollander manual so we could verify.

Ok, since all you guys have expanded this answer to take in your first recollection of a pilothouse, I thought I'd do the same. Like many of you, my Grandfather had one of these. In talking with one of my Uncles several years ago, I found out it was a B1C (1949) that they bought used. They also had a pre-Pilothouse flatbed. In the photo my Grandfather is in the flatbed and one of my Uncles is in the Pilothouse. They owned and operated a chicken hatchery in southern Indiana from right after WWII until my Grandfather passed away in 1991. In the late 40's/early 50's they wewre one of the largest shippers of baby chicks in the mid-west. I don't actually remember the truck so much as the photo. Anyway, I've always been a little partial to Pilothouse trucks, even before I knew that's what they were called.

Ok, ok, here's a couple of shots. I have to admit, in spite of the heat, I had a great time. Next time I'll search for the mustard... By the way, I've been driving mine ever since I bought it in 1996; although it sat for about 6 years in between in there before I started to restore it.

I'm not an expert in auto electrical (or, any other electrical, for that matter...), but I'm very happy with the 6V alternator I put in my B2B. It was important to me to stay with a 6V syastem and this allowed me to do it. As I understand it, there is nothing inherently wrong with a 6V system. The problem is the generator. Of course, as you go to more and more 'goodies' you'll need more poop, which the 12V will give you. However, if you're not running AC, stereo, cell charger, GPS, etc., 6V is fine. Check out Fifth Avenue's web site for the description: http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/anniversary/index.html I used the Optima battery Fifth Avenue recommended and my truck starts every time - I don't even choke it, even in Winter.

I switched to a 6V alternator and it starts very well every time. In fact, I've never used the choke or throttle. I used an Optima, which was recommended by Fifth Avenue. It has 800 CCA. It's hard to believe you have an electrical issue.

Thanks...

Nice motor! What intake and exhaust manifolds are you using? Are those two barrel carbs?

Wow! What a collection. Are any of the after-market ones still being made?

Don't know of a source for repo gaskets, but they're pretty simple. Mine were there when I restored by B2B, but pretty brittle. I found some flat rubber sheets about the same thickness and cut out new ones.

I've recently been thinking about a similar thing for my B2B. My idea is a 'log'-type manifold with three B&B Carters, each feeding two cylinders. With cast iron headers and dual exhausts, it seems like the 218 should be able to handle this. Seems like someone posted a picture of an early indy-type race car with a flattie running three or four carbs.

Just curious... are you in the Sacramento area?

Roberts has 'em, although I don't know about quality...

I used it; also the frame paint and engine paint. If I remember, I put the intake manifold in the oven and baked it for a while.

The bracket is the one thing that could be better with this setup. However, it's one of the things, as Dodge owners, we have to put up with. There just isn't the demand for someone to fabricate a MOPAR/flathead-specific bracket. Here's what the 'generic' bracket looks like installed. As you can see, it mounts to the original bracket. I was a little leary of it at first because I thought it would loosen up and I'd be constantly tightening the bolts. So far (since Oct.) that hasn't happened. I will eventually fabricate another bracket that looks a little more original. Hope this helps. Like I said, I'm real happy with this setup.

Thanks, but I don't actually have the car. I'm thinking about getting the rear end out of one to put in my B2B. I was just trying to determine if it is a higher gear than my truck's 4:11...