Jim Shepard
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Everything posted by Jim Shepard
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I purchase everything except the vent rubber from Steele. The vent rubber I got from Roberts because I couldn't get the Steele vent rubber to fit (see pics). I even called Steele and talked with them. They said they had never had a complaint, although admitted they don't get much action on Dodge trucks. The Roberts rubber went on slicker 'en snot.
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I used Bruce Horkey for both my wood (white oak) and the hardware, including chains and hooks for the tailgate. I'm very satisfied, although it wasn't cheap! http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/shephatchery/newbed04.jpg As you can see, I went with black on the wood, which is how they all came. The only drawback to the horkey bed kit is that the large washers used under the bed bolts (bed to frame) do not have the cleats that grab the wood when tightened. Also, the skid strips are not an exact duplicate, but I doubt anyone would catch that.
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Sometimes it's not about the show, but the drive...
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Main intersection in town. HWY 49 and Fiddletown Road, which is where you turn to get up to the show.
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Hey Bob! How many folks are going up on the 28th? Maybe we could all meet at Marlene and Glen's "Dead Fly Diner" for breakfast. I think that's where I'll be about 8 o'clock.
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Nice...
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Is anyone else having trouble with this site kicking you out after you've logged on? This happens now everytime I click on a picture or try and follow another link.
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The original driver's side mirror bracket is worth darn near $500!
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Thanks, I'd appreciate that...
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Hey flathead6! Do you remember what year and model Chrysler you used?
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Given the grill and wiper position on the cowl, I'd say this is a 48-50...
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You're right - I mounted mine a little farther inboard than I wanted but you have to clear the tank filler tube. It wraps around teh sit frame very well, no hangups or anything else.
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You should have two tabs. They attach to the radiator shrouding. In the photo you can see four holes with speed nuts. The two middle ones are for attaching the center hood section. The two outside holes take the upper-most stainless grill bar. Hope this helps.
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Thanks guys. I'll try it and let you know.
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I posted this question once before and got no response. With all the interest Merle's question garnered, I thought I'd try again. My speedo doesn't work. I've disconnected it at the back and, with the truck moving, confirmed that the cable is good. When hooked up, the odometer works, but no speedo. The needle does jump around a little, though. I, too, have debated taking the speedo apart because of the grommets holding the housing together. As it now sounds like that may not be the issue I thought it was, my only question now is: what am I looking for once I get inside?
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Question re: pinhole in oil bath filter
Jim Shepard replied to Mario Loya B1B's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I used the decals from Roberts and they went on fine. I hadn't played around with decals since my youngster days building airplanes... -
Pilot House trucks didn't have fender welting. What went between the rear fenders and the bed box was a kind of chaulking. You can purchase a very good replacement product by 3M called 'Strip-Calk.' Part No. 08578. I also used it around the hinges where they mount to the body.
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What you need is a rubberized windlace. I found mine from an outfit in Oklahoma, but I understand they do not have any more. It has a foam-filled cell and its reinforced with wire. Roberts sold me something they said was original, but it wasn't filled, wasn't reinforced, and was quite abit stiffer than original. You'll need this material in two places. The first, as you've described where the fender meets the cowl just in front of the door; the second is where the wheel well "extensions" meet the bottom of the floor boards. This you can see in the attached photo. Hope this helps...
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Fine by me. The other thing we shouldn't forget is the ATHS show in Plymouth the last weekend in April. I've been trying to get my truck up there for the last five years. Somethun' also gets in the way. Saturday is the better day to go, so that would be the 28th. I think they have BBQ that night. Reg! You went last year, didn't you? Be nice to have a few MOPARS there...
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PS - 48dodger, we can meet on HWY49 in Sutter Creek.
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I'm game for a little trip to Grass Valley - when its not raining! I still haven't fixed the leak in my windshield...
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Fifth Avenue recommends the Optima for the cranking power. I looked for something in another brand (because the Optima is "funny" looking), but couldn't find anything that even approached its CCA's.
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I bought the 6V alternator from Fifth Avenue and I'm very happy with it. Yor do need to buy the recommended battery, though. It's the Optima SC6A and it's got 800 CCA! The only drawback is Optima doesn't make a tie down for it. Which reminds me - Fifth Avenue only offers a generic bracket for their alternator. Later, I'll probably have something fashioned that looks a little more like original. I took my regulator off and mounted a terminal block to run the harness through. It looks nice - almost original. You can see it just behind the hood strap.
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I bought one from Roberts. The quality seems ok; however, they're way too big if you have a heater. The back will need to be shortened. Also, make sure you save your clips as there is no provision for attaching the box to the dash. I very carefully removed mine and pressed them on my new box after I'd punched holes in the appropriate locations. These clips ar important as they secure to the screws.
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I didn't powdercoat mine, mostly because I didn't totally dissasemble it. I steam cleaned it, then power washed, and scrubbed with a wire brush and then used POR15 Marine Clean before painting it with POR15 rust stuff. I then top coated it with Rustoleum gloss black paint. All this with a foam brush! It was easy and it looks great.